Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

1962 Studebaker Hawk

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Paint: 1962 Studebaker Hawk

    I'm in the process of restoring a 62 Hawk that was originally painted, (Paint 13 P 6217 Metallic Brown) Brown. One of the previous owners did a terrible job of painting the car white at some time. There is overspray everywhere, including the windows and the paint has chipped away and the original brown can be seen. There is surface rust on the under carriage of the car and a lesser amount of rust in the trunk interior and engine compartment.

    After I have cleaned, sanded and removed most of the loose surface rust I intend to cover the rusted areas with POR-15 45404 Rust Preventive Coating Semi-Gloss Black on the undercarriage and trunk before I put on a primer coat or top coat.

    My question is since the car was originally brown, what color should I paint the interior of the trunk, the wheel wells and firewall in the engine compartment? Since I do not intend to remove the engine or remove all engine wiring and components my thought was to just use the POR rust coating with a black primer in the engine compartment. But if this is not a good idea is there some "acceptable" neutral color that will "blend" or not be noticeable and can be used to paint these areas as I do not intend to have these areas "sprayed" with the paint I will use on the exterior.

    Any help, recommendations, ideas appreciated. PS I am NOT striving to restore this car to "show" conditions. I just want a nice looking, Studebaker Hawk.

    Thanks

    Richard

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_7003.JPG
Views:	170
Size:	209.6 KB
ID:	1894282
    Attached Files

  • #2
    All those areas should then be the color of the final exterior paint........

    Comment


    • #3
      The problem with POR15 is that it is a "Rust Conversion" Product just like Acid that converts the rust to better adhere to the surface Metal.
      It is for non-visible undercarrage parts and is not compatible or will not allow a visually good looking smooth surface with Top Coats,

      An Epoxy Primer, Sealer Primer and Top Coat System are what is used on visible surfaces like Engine Compartments and Exterior Bodys.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

      Comment


      • #4
        Yes. And it can be done without pulling the engine. Looks nice---I hope they didn't Bondo over rust holes.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
          The problem with POR15 is that it is a "Rust Conversion" Product just like Acid that converts the rust to better adhere to the surface Metal.
          It is for non-visible undercarrage parts and is not compatible or will not allow a visually good looking smooth surface with Top Coats,

          An Epoxy Primer, Sealer Primer and Top Coat System are what is used on visible surfaces like Engine Compartments and Exterior Bodys.
          Thank you. That is exactly the kind of input and knowledge I was looking for.

          Comment


          • #6
            POR-15 is a non-porous paint, NOT a conversion coating. Conversion coatings convert iron oxide to iron phosphate, rendering the rust inert (ideally, at least). An example of a conversion coating is Ospho, which is the consistency (viscosity) of water. POR-15 is a non-porous paint that seals the rust in so oxygen cannot get to the rusty metal and continue the rusting process. Recall your chemistry: rust is like a fire, only much slower. So, the rust needs oxygen to continue. The POR-15 denies that oxygen. One might want to Google Ospho and POR-15 to learn more about them.

            Epoxy primer, sealer primer, and top coat are used on visible surfaces. Rust should be removed first. POR-15 works well on things like floorboards. Note that you MUST topcoat it while it is still tacky.
            -Dwight

            Comment


            • #7
              This pair worked like an absolute charm when I restored my Jeepster - used it over both unfinished metal and sanded OEM paint alike. Comes in white-grey-black as options.

              Any active rust was converted with the standard tannic acid + 2-butoxyethanol product (looks like dark coffee) and skim-filled prior to priming.

              Comment


              • #8
                What ya gotta remember is to get rust protection you have to TOTALLY ENCAPSULATE the rusty part!! other wise rust will sneak under the coating and start bubbling. IE patched a rusty 63 lark fender in late 80"s, rear of front fender. ground rust to fair metal inside and out.sealed inside with fiberglass gel, outside same with skim of filler then rattle can primer. just recently patch began to bubble under rattle can primer,epoxy primer,enamel paint. not bad for a CASO job. finally cut out rusty 2x6 area and welded in new metal, should last my life time anyway! Luck Doofus

                Comment

                Working...
                X