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Advice Needed: Before car burns to the ground

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  • Lark Hunter
    replied
    ^ I do my best to steer clear of Dorman parts. It sounds like they used to make decent stuff before my time, but I've seen a lot of total crap-ola with their name on it these days. I'm sure it isn't all bad, but it ain't all good either

    Originally posted by Speedster#201 View Post
    Thanks, Lark Hunter!
    No problemo

    Leave a comment:


  • Corbinstein0
    replied
    something i'll put out there. I bought a Dorman switch to put inline with my Coil as an antitheft device. apparently quality isn't as important as it used to be. It lasted about 6 months before crapping out.

    Leave a comment:


  • Speedster#201
    replied
    Thanks, Lark Hunter!

    Leave a comment:


  • Lark Hunter
    replied
    I'm guessing you're running sealed beam 4015A frog lights? Those are ~11.3 amps per pair. It's better to go overkill on the relays, so go for something that's >11.3 amps.

    I like to have my ammeters read all of the load, but you're running enough that just running the relay trigger through the ammeter would be the correct move.

    Leave a comment:


  • Speedster#201
    replied
    Thanks, Guys. I'll report back when I get this done.

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  • tanda62
    replied
    I can speak to the first on the list. Draw power for the fog lights from the fuse block. This diagram is from a different vehicle but maybe it will help.
    Click image for larger version

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  • Speedster#201
    replied
    Thanks, Tom, Roy

    So a few follow-up questions --
    1. Is it smart to power from + on Ammeter (vs. battery) -- and keep existing wiring in place to act as the trigger and power supply to the dash lights?
    2. I am concerned about finding the right relay -- according to my calculations (but what do I really know, anyway?), I should have a 10amp relay -- but could I do a 40amp (these seem far more common)?
    3. Does my diagram look correct? Anything I should change?

    Thanks again and happy Saturday,
    Jimbo

    Leave a comment:


  • tanda62
    replied
    I did the following on my 6V truck for fog lights regarding your questions:
    1. Wire gauge to the fog lights - 16
    2. Did not use a relay but my truck is not a daily driver.
    3. Wire gauge from Fuse block to Ammeter - 12 with 20 amp fuse.

    With 6V if in doubt go for the bigger gauge as a general rule.
    Hope this helps,
    Tom

    Leave a comment:


  • RadioRoy
    replied
    <But for the life of me, cannot find this in 6V... https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10590/10002/-1 --- if someone can point me in the right direction, that'd be swell.>



    That's because there is no such thing as a 6 volt circuit breaker. The amperage rating is what is important.
    Voltage rating on a circuit breaker is break down voltage - the voltage it will withstand without arcing over when it opens. Most of these automotive things have break down voltages in the hundreds. So just buy this one and you will be OK.

    Likewise, switches do not come in 6 or 12 volts. The current rating is the measure to look for. If the vehicle you have was originally 6 volts, then the wire gauge and current rating of switches is more than adequate, since it is larger than what is needed for 12 volts.

    Switches, wires, wires, relays, vintage heater motors are not polarity sensitive, either.
    The things that are polarity sensitive are:
    -solid state devices, like diodes, transistors, integrated circuits, modern radios
    -the generator and regulator need to be polarized
    -the spark plug coil needs to be hooked up with the correct polarity
    Last edited by RadioRoy; 07-17-2021, 10:48 AM.

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  • Speedster#201
    replied
    Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
    This whole thing looks great.

    I would use circuit breakers instead of fuses for the headlights.

    Most car companies did that so if there was a fault, the headlights would cycle on and off rather than going out completely.
    Thanks for the great suggestion, RR -- makes a lot of sense and I plan to move the fuse for the Low Beam circuit to the fog light circuit -- this way, I'll always have at least low beams.

    But for the life of me, cannot find this in 6V... https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10590/10002/-1 --- if someone can point me in the right direction, that'd be swell.

    Also, in my quest to rig up the fog lights, too -- I've come up with a diagram (attached) and isolated down to 4 questions/need for confirmations:
    1. What should wiring gauge be to fog lights (I think these are comparable: https://www.unityusa.com/U-4015A-6-v...p_p_106.html)? I think 10 or 12 gauge.
    2. What should wiring gauge and fuse from battery to relay be? 10 gauge and 20 amp?
    3. Optionally, what should wiring gauge and fuse from ammeter to relay be? 10 gauge and 20 amp?
    4. What should relay amperage be? I think 10 amp given this page: https://relaypros.com/choosing_proper_amperage.htm

    Appreciate all the help, Guys.

    Thanks,
    Jimbo
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  • tanda62
    replied
    If you are still looking for some good 6 volt wiring, I used this company to make all the wires for my 53 Dodge truck. The spark plug wires are also great. The cloth covers give a good period look as well.
    https://enginebarn.myshopify.com/

    Leave a comment:


  • Hawklover
    replied
    Last year I put in a 50 amp CB for the high beams on my Avanti, as at night the lights would go on and off while on the expressway.........and I do not like brown underwear. Additionally I put in a relay in the circuit.

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  • RadioRoy
    replied
    This whole thing looks great.

    I would use circuit breakers instead of fuses for the headlights.

    Most car companies did that so if there was a fault, the headlights would cycle on and off rather than going out completely.
    Last edited by RadioRoy; 07-11-2021, 03:44 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hawklover
    replied
    https://caig.com/

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  • Hawklover
    replied
    Originally posted by bezhawk View Post
    I see 12 volt plastic wiring. That is a good portion of your troubles. 6 volt cars take very heavy wiring as they carry twice the CURRENT as 12 volt cars. 12 volt may be more voltage, but it is less current. 55 was the last year for lacquered cloth wires.
    If it is a replacement harness in vinyl wiring, then the problem is probably too much resistance from corrosion, and lack of use, or high humidity, or salt air.
    Every once in a while rapidly switch the switches to keep the connections good. Also if you can, there is an electrical contact spray cleaner that they used to make for the old rotory TV tuners. I think they still have it at parts stores.
    try and spray the switches with the spray wand.
    The absolute best thing out there for electronics connections etc, are the chemicals from Caig Labs.............Caig red is amazing stuff..........been keeping my 60 yr old tape decks in great electrical shape. Buy direct of from many of the electronic supply houses.

    Leave a comment:

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