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Advice Needed: Before car burns to the ground

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  • #31
    Quick update on (slow) progress: Disassembly, clean up, and new wires in place.

    Pics show:
    Shiny new #10 ground wire installed with cleaned off swedged brass loop that will be main ground contact surface.
    Old wiring with clips that also look burnt and in less than decent shape.
    New wiring with clips -- #10 gauge wire doesn't all fit into the cut out in the clip so having to peel back some of the strands until it does. Thinking I have to snip the strands off -- and hope there won't be an issue with the reduction in number of strands.

    ~Jimbo
    Attached Files
    -James

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    • #32
      So it's been a while... turns out the switch was crap and while that was out, the generator was converted to effectively, an alternator.
      Got everything put back in last night and holy cow -- never knew those headlights could be so bright -- and my headlight switch isn't hot to the touch.
      Took it for a spin around town last night just to show it off -- nothing like a hot summer night cruise....

      I'm inspired to do my fog (switch gets hot) and brake lights (too dim) now. Should I use the same gauge wire and relay ratings?

      Thanks everyone for sticking with me on this -- it's been a great learning experience.
      -James

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      • #33
        Originally posted by bezhawk View Post
        I see 12 volt plastic wiring. That is a good portion of your troubles. 6 volt cars take very heavy wiring as they carry twice the CURRENT as 12 volt cars. 12 volt may be more voltage, but it is less current. 55 was the last year for lacquered cloth wires.
        If it is a replacement harness in vinyl wiring, then the problem is probably too much resistance from corrosion, and lack of use, or high humidity, or salt air.
        Every once in a while rapidly switch the switches to keep the connections good. Also if you can, there is an electrical contact spray cleaner that they used to make for the old rotory TV tuners. I think they still have it at parts stores.
        try and spray the switches with the spray wand.
        The absolute best thing out there for electronics connections etc, are the chemicals from Caig Labs.............Caig red is amazing stuff..........been keeping my 60 yr old tape decks in great electrical shape. Buy direct of from many of the electronic supply houses.

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        • #34
          https://caig.com/

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          • #35
            This whole thing looks great.

            I would use circuit breakers instead of fuses for the headlights.

            Most car companies did that so if there was a fault, the headlights would cycle on and off rather than going out completely.
            Last edited by RadioRoy; 07-11-2021, 03:44 PM.
            RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

            17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
            10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
            10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
            4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
            5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
            56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
            60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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            • #36
              Last year I put in a 50 amp CB for the high beams on my Avanti, as at night the lights would go on and off while on the expressway.........and I do not like brown underwear. Additionally I put in a relay in the circuit.

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              • #37
                If you are still looking for some good 6 volt wiring, I used this company to make all the wires for my 53 Dodge truck. The spark plug wires are also great. The cloth covers give a good period look as well.
                https://enginebarn.myshopify.com/

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
                  This whole thing looks great.

                  I would use circuit breakers instead of fuses for the headlights.

                  Most car companies did that so if there was a fault, the headlights would cycle on and off rather than going out completely.
                  Thanks for the great suggestion, RR -- makes a lot of sense and I plan to move the fuse for the Low Beam circuit to the fog light circuit -- this way, I'll always have at least low beams.

                  But for the life of me, cannot find this in 6V... https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10590/10002/-1 --- if someone can point me in the right direction, that'd be swell.

                  Also, in my quest to rig up the fog lights, too -- I've come up with a diagram (attached) and isolated down to 4 questions/need for confirmations:
                  1. What should wiring gauge be to fog lights (I think these are comparable: https://www.unityusa.com/U-4015A-6-v...p_p_106.html)? I think 10 or 12 gauge.
                  2. What should wiring gauge and fuse from battery to relay be? 10 gauge and 20 amp?
                  3. Optionally, what should wiring gauge and fuse from ammeter to relay be? 10 gauge and 20 amp?
                  4. What should relay amperage be? I think 10 amp given this page: https://relaypros.com/choosing_proper_amperage.htm

                  Appreciate all the help, Guys.

                  Thanks,
                  Jimbo
                  Click image for larger version

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                  -James

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                  • #39
                    <But for the life of me, cannot find this in 6V... https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10590/10002/-1 --- if someone can point me in the right direction, that'd be swell.>



                    That's because there is no such thing as a 6 volt circuit breaker. The amperage rating is what is important.
                    Voltage rating on a circuit breaker is break down voltage - the voltage it will withstand without arcing over when it opens. Most of these automotive things have break down voltages in the hundreds. So just buy this one and you will be OK.

                    Likewise, switches do not come in 6 or 12 volts. The current rating is the measure to look for. If the vehicle you have was originally 6 volts, then the wire gauge and current rating of switches is more than adequate, since it is larger than what is needed for 12 volts.

                    Switches, wires, wires, relays, vintage heater motors are not polarity sensitive, either.
                    The things that are polarity sensitive are:
                    -solid state devices, like diodes, transistors, integrated circuits, modern radios
                    -the generator and regulator need to be polarized
                    -the spark plug coil needs to be hooked up with the correct polarity
                    Last edited by RadioRoy; 07-17-2021, 10:48 AM.
                    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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                    • #40
                      I did the following on my 6V truck for fog lights regarding your questions:
                      1. Wire gauge to the fog lights - 16
                      2. Did not use a relay but my truck is not a daily driver.
                      3. Wire gauge from Fuse block to Ammeter - 12 with 20 amp fuse.

                      With 6V if in doubt go for the bigger gauge as a general rule.
                      Hope this helps,
                      Tom

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                      • #41
                        Thanks, Tom, Roy

                        So a few follow-up questions --
                        1. Is it smart to power from + on Ammeter (vs. battery) -- and keep existing wiring in place to act as the trigger and power supply to the dash lights?
                        2. I am concerned about finding the right relay -- according to my calculations (but what do I really know, anyway?), I should have a 10amp relay -- but could I do a 40amp (these seem far more common)?
                        3. Does my diagram look correct? Anything I should change?

                        Thanks again and happy Saturday,
                        Jimbo
                        -James

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                        • #42
                          I can speak to the first on the list. Draw power for the fog lights from the fuse block. This diagram is from a different vehicle but maybe it will help.
                          Click image for larger version

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                          • #43
                            Thanks, Guys. I'll report back when I get this done.
                            -James

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                            • #44
                              I'm guessing you're running sealed beam 4015A frog lights? Those are ~11.3 amps per pair. It's better to go overkill on the relays, so go for something that's >11.3 amps.

                              I like to have my ammeters read all of the load, but you're running enough that just running the relay trigger through the ammeter would be the correct move.
                              Whirling dervish of misinformation.

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                              • #45
                                Thanks, Lark Hunter!
                                -James

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