Hi guys,
if any of you read my "Can't stop the weep!" post last week (continued weeping of 3/16" Cunifer brake flares at my master cylinder, etc.), Here is (apparently?) at least ONE of my problems.
After getting a new tubing cutter, experimenting on fresh tubing, different depths, etc..., I finally did what I should have two years ago, called MasterCool about their hydraulic flaring tool, vs my problems.
I sent them photos of the whole process (to prove I was doing it right), and of the die set and the resulting EVERY TIME extra material under the flares.
Their answer: die is faulty, and pointed out the threads at the top are not 'sharp' like the rest of them.
Said "someone must have used too hard a material or too thick wall-thickness'.... I got it new, only used it with Cunifer lines for this Hawk, and ALWAYS had this problem since day one. Regardless, is what it is.
SO, need to buy a new 3/16" die. And new FedHill Cunifer, I'm ALL out now (he strongly warned me away from NAPA, etc..., "cheap imported materials"..... )
QUESTION: anyone had 'weeping' lines during actual use, after they were sealed initially? Ie: any reason to consider re-doing my whole brake system, again, while I'm at it? (Body is still off, will never be more accessible.). None of the rest of the fittings are leaking (any more; really had to crank down on most of those nuts to stop the weeping with DOT5 back in 2019). But considering I've had this die problem when I originally did the whole system 2 years ago (I simply carefully filed off that little ridge until flare nut spun free and looked good), now I wonder.
The three weeps I'm fighting now, after having it ALL leak-free for two years, are the two MC connections, and one of the corresponding pressure valves (Jim Turner dual-MC kit).
So, they are always under some pressure, and "next day" I'll go out and get that little wet spot on a paper towel.
The REST of the system, no leaks now, only sees pressure when the pedal is compressed. So I wonder; just because they are not weeping now, might they when I really stand on the pedal with real braking someday (vs hand-pumping to bleed and check for leaks?)
Sorry this doesn't answer any of YOUR weeping issues brought up in previous post, though all of your input was good advice for me (first car I've ever made brakes for; possibly the last :-)
Barry
if any of you read my "Can't stop the weep!" post last week (continued weeping of 3/16" Cunifer brake flares at my master cylinder, etc.), Here is (apparently?) at least ONE of my problems.
After getting a new tubing cutter, experimenting on fresh tubing, different depths, etc..., I finally did what I should have two years ago, called MasterCool about their hydraulic flaring tool, vs my problems.
I sent them photos of the whole process (to prove I was doing it right), and of the die set and the resulting EVERY TIME extra material under the flares.
Their answer: die is faulty, and pointed out the threads at the top are not 'sharp' like the rest of them.
Said "someone must have used too hard a material or too thick wall-thickness'.... I got it new, only used it with Cunifer lines for this Hawk, and ALWAYS had this problem since day one. Regardless, is what it is.
SO, need to buy a new 3/16" die. And new FedHill Cunifer, I'm ALL out now (he strongly warned me away from NAPA, etc..., "cheap imported materials"..... )
QUESTION: anyone had 'weeping' lines during actual use, after they were sealed initially? Ie: any reason to consider re-doing my whole brake system, again, while I'm at it? (Body is still off, will never be more accessible.). None of the rest of the fittings are leaking (any more; really had to crank down on most of those nuts to stop the weeping with DOT5 back in 2019). But considering I've had this die problem when I originally did the whole system 2 years ago (I simply carefully filed off that little ridge until flare nut spun free and looked good), now I wonder.
The three weeps I'm fighting now, after having it ALL leak-free for two years, are the two MC connections, and one of the corresponding pressure valves (Jim Turner dual-MC kit).
So, they are always under some pressure, and "next day" I'll go out and get that little wet spot on a paper towel.
The REST of the system, no leaks now, only sees pressure when the pedal is compressed. So I wonder; just because they are not weeping now, might they when I really stand on the pedal with real braking someday (vs hand-pumping to bleed and check for leaks?)
Sorry this doesn't answer any of YOUR weeping issues brought up in previous post, though all of your input was good advice for me (first car I've ever made brakes for; possibly the last :-)
Barry
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