Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Rust Repair Advice Request: 59 Lark

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    It appears that you plan to MIG weld the repairs so let me suggest that you start with the floors as practice as they are all horizontal welds. You can practice there to get the feel of welding to older metal and either buy the body panels or just find metal (about 18 ga) and bend your own for most of the repairs.

    Take it slow as you mentioned and you can use a variety of tools and a vise for a lot of fabrication. You can also beat metal around any number of wooden forms to get some of the complex shapes you might need. Visualize what you need and cut, form and welding will come to you with practice. Just do it and learn from what you don't like.

    Bob

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by 64studeavanti View Post

      Seeing as how a good driver quality 59 Lark is worth maybe $5,000, I agree with this approach. You need to do the minimum to make it road worthy so you can enjoy it. It is very easy to get upside down by getting too carried away. This is true even on the more valuable Studes. Just ask me how I know...
      Agreed with both Yogi and 64studeavanti-
      Im enjoying the journey, and want to get this car up and running: but doing all these updates and repairs is enjoyable for someone who sits in front of a computer all day.
      Im spending money on what I consider a hobby, so its money well spent. If I end up spending 5K to get this car up and running (or whatever the number is), its fine as this is fun for me.
      I bought the car for $1800, and it was a driveable car at that time. ALLLLLL the bushings needed to be replaced, but at least I dont have to get a new engine in there.

      I did the brakes myself, and its fulfilling to do that level of difficulty of updates to me. An engine rebuild is beyond my ability- I know my limits. But this body work MAY be something I can handle. If not, Ill take it to a shop and have them fix my mess after I try it first.

      Someone else mentioned that I should work on the floor pans first, and then work my way up the car and hone my technique. That is the plan, and I have watched a lot of hours of body repair videos (which by no means makes me anywhere close to an expert).

      Thanks for the advice everyone!

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by sweetolbob View Post
        It appears that you plan to MIG weld the repairs so let me suggest that you start with the floors as practice as they are all horizontal welds. You can practice there to get the feel of welding to older metal and either buy the body panels or just find metal (about 18 ga) and bend your own for most of the repairs.

        Take it slow as you mentioned and you can use a variety of tools and a vise for a lot of fabrication. You can also beat metal around any number of wooden forms to get some of the complex shapes you might need. Visualize what you need and cut, form and welding will come to you with practice. Just do it and learn from what you don't like.

        Bob
        Thanks Bob- that is the plan, yes. I want to start sloppy on the floorpans, then hope fully get better as I travel up the car. I have ordered some panels form Classic Enterprises, and those will ensure that I have a good base to start from and have the general shapes for panels. I am going to be conservative with what I cut out so there are no huge holes that freak me out.
        Ive been watching Fitzees Fabrications videos on youtube. He is amazing at explaining how to do this in a way that anyone can understand
        https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6J...r3EvJnw/videos

        Thanks!

        Comment


        • #19
          Years ago I took a general interest welding course at a local high school. Used their welders and had the benefit of an instructors looking at my work. I was also a paper pusher stuck in front of the computer and can relate to your satisfaction from fixing something. After a day in the office, the steel does not talk back!! They say "one mans work is another man's pleasure". One tip I picked up working on light metal was to put copper on the backside of the weld. Its keeps you from burning through and weld does not stick. Also make sure you cut back to good metal.Good luck and enjoy.
          Bob
          Bob
          Welland Ontario
          60 Lark Convertible
          64 Daytona
          sigpic
          "They were meant to be driven ... so keep on cruizin"

          Comment


          • #20
            I have used POR15 for years. Small holes can be repaired with it or POR Patch. Big ones need to be cut out and repair panel welded in place. Hint -weld only a little bit at a time. If you do a lot you can warp the heck out of the piece. I've developed a technique of using POR and fiberglass mat and then covering it with polyester resin and another layer of mat-if needed. POR reacts with the rust so be sure surface is oil free and clear of loose scale. It is just about indestructible and won't come off -ever. I only use it on small holes. I've cut those so common fender holes out and patched the with a plug welded repair panel .. If you do this it is essential to seal the panel completely so no moisture can between the panel and the fender. If you're really good, cut the patch to fit the hole and but weld it in place. I lack the talent for that (the last time I did that I warped the panel so bad I had to cut the repair out and start over. I have a flanging tool - made by Vice-Grip-- that will flange the hole and allow the use of panel adhesive which , if you cannot weld is a good alternative to welding. I've used it it to avoid warp and 20 years later it seems just fine. (SEM) Have fun!

            Comment

            Working...
            X