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Reinstalling rear drums ‘50 Champion

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  • Brakes: Reinstalling rear drums ‘50 Champion

    Hello all,
    I’ve read numerous posts on how to pull the rear drums with a hub puller. I haven’t seen anything regarding reinstalling them- is there a torque spec for this? The shop manual doesn’t go into it.
    Thx,
    Jim

  • #2
    There is a Torque Spec there somewhere. DO NOT oil or grease the surface of the tapered axle, or hub when reinstalling. Do it DRY. plus the key install is done after the hub is on, but not torqued. Key ORIENTATION is crucial as well, but off-hand I don't know. There are others here who should chime in.

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    • #3
      Jim,
      Install dry. For me the urge to put some sort of lube on there is almost overwhelming but don't do it. Make sure the key is in the right place. Tighten to 150 ft-lbs. What I generally do is tighten to about 125 ft-lbs then turn to get the cotter pin hole to line up. I also make a point of popping them off every few years both to check the rear brakes and to make sure hubs don't rust on there. Don't stress about it too much, our low-torque Champions are not really straining that hub the way a '63 Avanti would.

      Nathan
      _______________
      http://stude.vonadatech.com
      https://jeepster.vonadatech.com

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      • #4
        Thanks guys, I appreciate the information- this forum has been a huge part of getting my champion roadworthy.
        Jim

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        • #5
          I thought there was a separate section in the Shop Manual that lists all the torque specs.
          "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

          Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
          Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
          '33 Rockne 10,
          '51 Commander Starlight,
          '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
          '56 Sky Hawk

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          • #6
            Originally posted by rockne10 View Post
            I thought there was a separate section in the Shop Manual that lists all the torque specs.
            Brake hub removal should refer the user to the Rear Axle section. I believe this class (my Lark included) says 150 ft-lb then tighten to next available slot in the castellated nut. Key "ramp" is inboard, and against axle slot surface when key is put into slot.

            Good reminder on installing completely oil-free. Still think a bit of talcum might interrupt any rust that might try to form.

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            • #7
              You’re correct, there is a torque specs section of manual. I think I found it- 2nd to last pg:
              shaft to hub nut 170-200 ft lb

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              • #8
                This post has been moved.

                Please post technical questions in the Tech Talk channel. Thank you.

                Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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