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hawk tow and winch advice

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  • Other: hawk tow and winch advice

    I am moving and my neighbor is going to help me tow my 57 silver hawk with an auto hauler. The car did run I just dont trust it on a big trip. I drove it to fill up two days before and it died 30 feet from my house on the way back. I cant get it to turn now. My neighbor has a winch and can still haul it. My question is is where is the safest/strongest point to place winch? I think I read once the answer is the bumper? Should I put a strap around the two inner front bumper arms and then hook that? Any Advice would be helpful.

  • #2
    It's really easy to bend the bumper by mishandling the hooks.

    Are you talking about just pulling the car onto the trailer, or holding the car down when it is on the trailer?

    You can pull it onto the trailer with the bumper brackets, but don't tie it down by them. Watch the way the hook attaches so as not to bend the bumper.

    The strongest tie down points are on the frame, not the bumper brackets. Sometimes there are factory applied loops hanging down that you can hook a chain to. Sometimes there are holes in the bat wing also.

    Personally, I like the hold down straps that go over the tire.

    In the front, stay away from the steering and suspension components.

    In the rear, be careful of the brake lines that go along the axle housing.

    If your friend has a car g=hauler, doesn't he know where to attach the hooks and cables?
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
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    • #3
      For winching, simply put a loop through the lower a-arm on either side. Use a strap loop or chain, don’t loop the cable, it can be damaged. And don’t pull by the flimsy bumper or brackets.

      For tie-down, always ‘soft-tie’. That is, NEVER, EVER tie down by the frame, ESPECIALLY a Studebaker frame, or any part of it. EVER. There are a couple reasons for this: One, the normal bouncing of travel will either loosen your straps, or tear your mounting points, or BOTH. That is dangerous; and Studebaker frames are known for being lighter gauge steel, making them more prone to damage. ‘Soft-tie’ means tying to unsprung components: in the front that’s lower a-arms or straps over the tire... in the rear that’s around the rear axle housing or tire straps. You want the car’s suspension to be able to move as you travel.

      Tie down by unsprung components at 4 points, go 10 miles, retighten if needed, then check each time you stop.
      Proud NON-CASO

      I do not prize the word "cheap." It is not a badge of is a symbol of despair. ~ William McKinley

      If it is decreed that I should go down, then let me go down linked with the truth - let me die in the advocacy of what is just and right.- Lincoln


      Ephesians 6:10-17
      Romans 15:13
      Deuteronomy 31:6
      Proverbs 28:1

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      • #4
        I winch cars onto my trailer by wrapping a strap or chain around the front crossmember and connecting the winch to it.