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  • Body / Glass: Door Handle Shave

    I have a 56 Power Hawk. My door/trunk locks are non functional and missing parts. The lock smith wasn't sure were to start. So I've been looking at door shave kits, to remove door handles and instal remote controlled solenoids to open my doors. There are sooo many products out, from 50.00 to 300.00. The solenoids range from 15 lb pull to 100. My latch mechanism is a bit different that most modern cars. Have any of you done this? What kit did you use? Are there any write ups on this forum? Thanks.

  • #2
    How about adding power door locks and leave the stock door handles and lock cylinders in place? A lot less body work involved.

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    • #3
      The 1955 to 1958 Studebaker Body Parts catalog Shows and lists the Part Numbers of all the Parts you should have and Most if not All, are available New to restore it to how it Should be.

      Door and Ignition Switch Locks are available to make them all (3) Match.

      Studebaker Door Handles are one of the Best looking, most functional Handles ever made, of High Quality (U.S. Steel Corp.) Stainless Steel.
      I would Never remove any.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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      • #4
        I agree, I like the Stude handles, and they aren't hard to fix. I have however eliminated the handles on a few cars ,not studes, but have never used any "kit". The easiest was to simply remove the handle, leaving the key lock and connect the rod from the lock to where the handle rod connects on the latch. The latch had enough "kick" that it would pop the door open. I've also used generic electric door lock solenoids to trip the latch, and after market ones ment for the purpose too, they are really agressive.

        On my '54 Chevy, it's original latches were weird and if the body twists enough the door would swing open. I had rear doors fly open twice on freeway on ramps. I even changed the latches to generic "bear jaw" type latches, and installed GM lock solenoids, and connected them to the original handles. I've also used the generic bear jaw latches opperated by generic electric solenoids. It's all pretty simple ,if you're mechanically inclined.

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        • #5
          I think I would just fix what I have.

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          • #6
            Thanks for the ideas. I will check lock cylinder availability, locksmith couldn't get them, but he isn't as smart as all of you. My drivers door latch works fine, but after cleaning & re-lubing, it is worn quite a bit. I bought my 1st Studebaker Cruiser in 1970 for 250.00, I was a stupid kid of 18, 1st car I looked at and could afford, lots wrong with it, drove it a year, can't remember what I did with it. 2nd was last year, 56 Commander 4d sedan, 35,000 miles, too nice a car for me, sold it to Ron who appreciates it. My 3rd is my Power Hawk, its already been modded a bit (hood scoop shaved, rear seat missing, jacked up rear, HD sway bars) so its perfect for a guy like me who can't leave anything alone and wants to play with re engineering stuff. So I'll offer my apologies to you 'original' guys, I do get it, but this car is gonna get a lot more than just the Toyota seats that I did this month. And I like a bit of body work occasionally, especially when I got some rust and repainting to do anyway.

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