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Basic generator info 1950 champion

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  • Flthdchamp
    replied
    Problem solved! Although it took a roundabout path! First, I polarized the system, made no difference, still no charge. I then inspected the wiring at the VR and found a loose, almost broken wire connection at the field terminal connection. I stripped the wire, put a néw connector on then checked for charging status again- nothing! So now I checked the generator by grounding the field terminal and giving it some revs- success! The bigger surprise was when I removed the temporary ground wire and it still worked, charging battery on revs- showing charge on ammeter.

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  • Flthdchamp
    replied
    I just found the answer with SI Catalogue under electrical. This is a late ‘50 generator- not pictured in shop manual

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  • Flthdchamp
    replied
    Here’s a pic of the generator ID tag. Not sure if anyone here can find a date for it based on this code? I called SI and they said they would ck and get back to me. It appears they may have used 2 different generators in ‘50 just like they did with the distributor. The shop manual shows a different one to the one I have but that may be an early one.
    Attached Files

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  • Flthdchamp
    replied
    Thx Rich- Yes, I suspect it’s autolite, you can see the “e” at the end. I’ll look at it in person later this week. Once I get the number off the ID plate I’m hoping I can find out what year it is. As you can see from the diagrams in the manual it doesn’t look like the generator for a ‘50 champ. But it could be from a later model. I’ll test the voltage regulator and if faulty replace it. Then polarize system before starting. Hopefully, this will solve the problem. It’s all part of my studebaker education lol.

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    In Picture #2 on Post #14, I see just the Edge of the Nameplate, that should tell you WHAT Generator you have.

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  • Flthdchamp
    replied
    Hi Nathan,
    I agree, I don’t want to throw parts at it - but I do know that when I got the car the ammeter would show a charge when rpms were increased and now , after I had done some work to it which included disconnecting the power supply , the ammeter either reads dead center or minus with no change when rpm is increased. I think the battery just needs a slight charge with my trickle charger but I Should have repolarized the system before starting the engine after I made repairs. Now that I’m investigating the generator it raises questions about its origin. It doesn’t mean it’s incorrect, as I stated before I have a distributor from a ‘56 champ which works fine. I’m just trying to know what I have so I can perform accurate diagnostics.
    Thx,
    Jim

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  • nvonada
    replied
    It sounds like everyone is jumping on polarization as being the issue. Check the basics first! The battery could just be old and weak. Connections could be loose or dirty. The belt could be slipping. Don't be in a big hurry to swap parts. In fact don't be in a hurry at all. Drive the car a little and see what happens. Just stay close to home for a while. Don't worry, you will get to spend big dollars at some point on this car. Don't be too eager to start the bleeding.

    Nathan

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  • Flthdchamp
    replied
    Here is a pic of the pg from manual showing generators for champion (top) and commander( bottom) in ‘50. Is it possible that my generator is from a later year champion? My distributor was from a ‘56 so I know parts have been interchanged in the past.
    Attached Files

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  • Flthdchamp
    replied
    Hi Rich,
    I attached a pic of the pg from the manual showing how to polarize. The car is at a different location to my primary residence so I can’t get a look at it now but I found a couple photos that partially reveal the generator, attached below. The position of the terminals (side by side) looks different than what the manual shows should be on a ‘50 champ. I also attached a pic of engine compartment where you can see the VR.
    thx again for your input.
    Jim
    Attached Files

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Originally posted by Flthdchamp View Post
    The shop manual says to momentarily connect the battery and gen terminals of the regulator to polarize system
    Be careful there!

    Are you SURE that is for a Model "G" Champion with Autolite, and not for a Model B Commander, with a Delco System?

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  • Flthdchamp
    replied
    The shop manual says to momentarily connect the battery and gen terminals of the regulator to polarize system

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  • Ron Strasser
    replied
    Stud Rich;
    I wrote the note the way I did as I do not remember How to polarize a Generator. I have not had a car with a Generator sine 1969. Nor have I worked on one since.
    I did have to polarize my 120 volt portable generator a few years ago; It lost its polarization just sitting. Had to dig out the owners manual as to how to do it. Now that I think of it I should start the Generator; have not had to use it since.
    As I mentioned Both Delco and Autolite made Generators with internally grounded Fields or Fields internally powered by the armature. I believe that ,at different times I had either brand of Generator on my 1955 Commander.
    The easiest way to test a Generator if the field is internally grounded is with the field terminal wire disconnected and with a multi meter set to ohms. Check for continuity from the field terminal to the generator case. Set the meter to its lowest scale. If the field is internally grounded the meter should read close to zero. That is if the field is good.
    Disconnect both the field and armature wires And test again. If the meter again reeds close to zero the Field is powered off of the armature.
    As I said I am doing this from a old memory. Not something I think about every day. I could look it up; but the information is in a manual that I would have to find.
    Too bad an Auto Electric shop like the one I cleaned parts at as a teenager no longer exists in most towns . The Old German owner had his own build test bench for Generators. He could run them, load them etc.
    As A side note. If you power the Armature terminal and either ground or power the Field terminal as required a Generator will run like a motor. That is if the generator is any good.
    Ron

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  • Flthdchamp
    replied
    I just checked the shop manual- looks like I could have fried my VR by not polarizing system

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  • Flthdchamp
    replied
    It’s possible I caused this when I disconnected some wires during R&R of the battery cable and distributor- how do I polarize the system?

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Ron is your information "General" for all Autolite Systems for ALL Makes?
    It is my understanding that all Studebaker Autolite Systems are polarized by Jumping Power to the "Field" Term.

    Of course the only other Instruction in the Studebaker Shop Manual is for the Delco Systems used on Commanders that get their "Arm" Armature Terminal jumped from the Batt. Term.

    How would anyone know if the Car has a Internally Grounded Field Generator?

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