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  • #31
    Originally posted by Ross View Post
    When in reverse the shift rail blocks the overdrive pawl so it can not move in and engage. So even if you did get up to 30 in reverse and the solenoid fired it could not push in the pawl. That is why the lockout switch is not strictly necessary and was later eliminated.

    By the same token, that is why you can not shift into reverse if your unit is wired up so that the overdrive is engaged full time. The shifter rail will hit the side of the pawl and prevent engagement.
    Perfect thanks - I’m not sure I’d like to see any Studebaker go 30 mph in reverse...

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    • #32
      Thanks so much, I am understanding this more, and with 400 miles on my Studebaby, I'm getting more familiar. A mechanic friend mentioned that there was a thing under the hood that was disconnected, I've attached a picture, is this the kick down switch? I'll have to try a down shift to 2nd while in OD to see if I can get good passing power, because acceleration at 70mph/2000 rpm is leisurely at best. Also, with my set up, what would happen if I tried to disengage OD at speed, flipped the toggle and pushed the handle in? What if I just flipped the toggle?

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      • #33
        that's your kickdown switch. Pretty stout item, but might need cleaning. Find yourself a schematic and you might get lucky in all connections and won't have to worry about 30+ posts to figure it out and you might just save the tranny.....

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        • #34
          Yes this is the factory kickdown switch - one side of the switch (two of the wires on opposite sides of the block) will break the circuit to the “hold-in” coil of the solenoid and the other pair will simultaneously short the ignition for a split second to give a hiccup in torque, which finally allows the spring-loaded pawl to retract and return to conventional drive.

          It all happens in a second. When you lift the foot up again, you open the ignition ground circuit and re-establish the solenoid hold-in circuit. Because you’ve left the cable in the same position, the system is ready to re-engage.

          In the photo you’ve shown here, all four wires have been cut or removed so that switches not going to do anything. Replacement switches are quite cheap - less than $40 in most places.

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          • #35
            FYI, I’ve had very good luck with some pretty bad looking (even junkyard) kickdown switches working just fine.

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