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  • Brakes: Check valve?

    I've added a (rebuilt) hydrovac brake booster to the front Turner discs on my '58 Champion sedan. A booster meant for car applications; not trucks, BTW. Bled the two valves on the unit and at the wheels until bubble-free before starting the car. I now have an easier pedal for stopping but it feels like the unit doesn't completely release the pads. I don't like the drag I'm feeling and, of course, a hydrovac isn't adjustable. Should I have a check valve on my vacuum line to the unit? Hate to think of gas fumes getting in there...

  • #2
    Tom
    Did you get a drum brake booster? or disc brake booster? There is a check valve inside the booster somewhere, that is different for disc and drum.

    Jim
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    • #3
      Good to know, Jim! Never thought of that. Wish me luck fixing that...

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      • #4
        If your booster has 2 bleeder screws, it’s for drum brakes. Disc brake applications only have 1.
        The disc brake booster also puts out higher line pressure than the drum brake unit.

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        • #5
          I am wondering Tom, what Master Cylinder you may have, I know it would be under the Floor on a '58 Champion Sedan, so if the Front Circuit has a Residual Valve in the Port of a dual M/C, or all 4 wheels are controlled by one if a Single M/C, you do not want that because the Calipers will lock up.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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          • #6
            Rich - I'm using an O'Reilly Brake Best (remanufactured) #10-1292 dual master, and as I recall, the 2-pound check valve for the front discs and 10-pound valve for the rear drums. Think I should remove the in-line check valve to the discs and see if it makes a difference?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by tomnoller View Post
              Rich - I'm using an O'Reilly Brake Best (remanufactured) #10-1292 dual master, and as I recall, the 2-pound check valve for the front discs and 10-pound valve for the rear drums. Think I should remove the in-line check valve to the discs and see if it makes a difference?
              That is how Studebaker did it with NO "Residual Valve" at all, BUT they never used a Dual Master with Discs, so with Jim Turner's Custom Dual System, you would have to ask him.

              I would think it matters whether you plumbed the Hydravac to the Front Brakes or All somehow.
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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              • #8
                Yes. Remove that residual/check valve. The majority of standard caliper disc brakes will drag if there is any residual pressure, and gradually apply themselves harder and harder as they get warmer.
                Whirling dervish of misinformation.

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