I've added a (rebuilt) hydrovac brake booster to the front Turner discs on my '58 Champion sedan. A booster meant for car applications; not trucks, BTW. Bled the two valves on the unit and at the wheels until bubble-free before starting the car. I now have an easier pedal for stopping but it feels like the unit doesn't completely release the pads. I don't like the drag I'm feeling and, of course, a hydrovac isn't adjustable. Should I have a check valve on my vacuum line to the unit? Hate to think of gas fumes getting in there...
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Tom
Did you get a drum brake booster? or disc brake booster? There is a check valve inside the booster somewhere, that is different for disc and drum.
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I am wondering Tom, what Master Cylinder you may have, I know it would be under the Floor on a '58 Champion Sedan, so if the Front Circuit has a Residual Valve in the Port of a dual M/C, or all 4 wheels are controlled by one if a Single M/C, you do not want that because the Calipers will lock up.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
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Rich - I'm using an O'Reilly Brake Best (remanufactured) #10-1292 dual master, and as I recall, the 2-pound check valve for the front discs and 10-pound valve for the rear drums. Think I should remove the in-line check valve to the discs and see if it makes a difference?
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Originally posted by tomnoller View PostRich - I'm using an O'Reilly Brake Best (remanufactured) #10-1292 dual master, and as I recall, the 2-pound check valve for the front discs and 10-pound valve for the rear drums. Think I should remove the in-line check valve to the discs and see if it makes a difference?
I would think it matters whether you plumbed the Hydravac to the Front Brakes or All somehow.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
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