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changed to 195 thermostat to boil water out of my oil

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  • Engine: changed to 195 thermostat to boil water out of my oil

    i read long ago that it's good to have the oil get at least the boiling temp of water i.e. 212 degrees so the condensation and water, don't contaminate the oil and foul the bearing, idk if this is a myth.

    and hotter engines are better for emissions as well

    I am all for it, so after getting a proper triple gauge set up ( the stock one has no numbers and to me is a just a guess) , my 180 stat kept the coolant at 180, no matter what sitting in traffic,cruising on the freeway, whatever. although it is still ~55 at it's lowest here in so cal winter, summers idk yet.

    the 195 is in and the shakedown drive showed me my cooling system is optimal running at 190-195, when the stat opens it dives to 160 and comes back to the 190ish in short order

    idk if i can achieve, water boiling with a 195, i heard oil runs a few degrees hotter how much hotter?

    thanks gents for your comments

    someone put in a 160 broken stat, that was wide open ,so that was not doing diddly squat , prolly hurt the break in procedure and ring seating

  • #2
    Oil temperature doesn't need to reach 212 to boil off accumulated moisture. "Boil off" is a bit of a misnomer here, as the tiny fractions of condensation generally evaporate during normal driving... it takes a fair amount of unusual driving habits under certain conditions for an appreciable amount of water to build up... like lots of 5 minute trips in cold, humid weather. At that point, you'll see a film of whitish-chocolate schmoo starting to accumulate on the underside of breather caps and the like, long before there's enough H2O to cause damage.

    FWIW- oil temp tends to lag behind coolant temperature after a cold start, but the two should reach equilibrium after ~15 minutes of normal driving, and oil usually runs 5-15 degrees above coolant temp. It'll take forever to warm up if you cold start and only idle the engine.
    Whirling dervish of misinformation.


    • #3
      I've been using 180 degree thermostats in my Studebaker engines for more years than I care to remember with good results, but I don't see a problem with using a 195 degree thermostat in your engine in So Cal as long as the engine doesn't show signs of overheating. Modern oils should be run between 200 and 220 degrees for best oil life and the least sludging. It has been my experience that the oil will run somewhere around 20 to 25 degrees hotter than the coolant if everything is functioning properly. Bud


      • #4
        I have been running 195s in Studes for decades, except the 56J recently when I installed a 'correct' WCFB, and switched to a 180. If I were driving it more in cool / cold weather, I'd install a 195 again, mainly so the heater would get hotter. To run a 195 in hot weather it is necessary to have an efficient cooling system and all three of my Hawks have the equivalent of a 5-row radiator. Even with such a radiator, in temps above 90-100F, engine temp will eventually reach 200-210, especially if the AC is on; it just takes much longer to reach those temps with a more efficient radiator. Once temps exceed the stat rating, there's no difference between a 160, 180 or 195; they are all max open and will stay open till environmental conditions change. Also, a 195 will not maintain 195 when ambient temps are cooler; they will run closer to 180; similarly, a 180 runs closer to 165, and a 160 will run 140-150. In wintertime, the hotter the motor the warmer the heater output. To avoid seasonal stat changes, a good cooling system allows a 195 year round.

        Agree, oil temps run higher than coolant temps, usually by 20-40 degrees.


        • #5
          Click image for larger version

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ID:	1885813 having the gauge is awesome, my drive home last night in 55 degree ambient at 65 mph, cause the stat to cycle open and close, as you say Joe, and it hung around the 180, I like the heater output of a higher stat, i am cold blooded

          so a 180 at low ambient in a best case +40 degree oil will yield only 205 short the 212 needed to rid water, so summer driving or a 195 stat in alaska will serve the oil better

          but i read online there is only a 10-15 degree difference between oil and water , why they say that?

          did you all have a oil temp gauge to confirm this?

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          • #6
            Sixty years of experience has shown me coolant temperature is controlled by the thermostat and ambient air temperature. OTOH, oil temperature is directly related to engine load. One can have an engine idling and the coolant temperature will come up rapidly, but the oil won't warm up until the engine is under load for longer than one might think.

            I had a very accurate set of Stewart-Warner mechanical sender coolant and oil temperature gauges. In this car driven normally, the coolant would always be at the 160 thermostat opening and stabilize at 100 degrees above the ambient air temperature. The oil temperature took a long time to reach 160 degrees. If I put it on the highway at 80 MPH or above, the oil temperature would continue to slowly climb; I never ran past 240 degrees, but if the load was kept high, it would have continued to climb.

            jack vines