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Fuel Line Replacement

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  • Fuel System: Fuel Line Replacement

    I'm looking for new fuel line from gas tank rubber connect to the fuel pump for a 57 silver hawk with the 289 V8. Any help on the fuel line size, leads to a vendor and/or purchasing a generic fuel line that works is appreciated.

  • #2
    I’ve always made my own.

    What I found here on my ‘’59 6-cyl Lark is the main line from tank was 1/4” and it was enlarged (collar soldered onto end) up to 5/16” prior to the suction side of the pump?

    NAPA has 25’ coils of 1/4” and 5/16”, with all the bronze Weatherhead/WIX flare fittings you need. With a good flaring tool, a good tube bender and practice, you will make professional quality lines. CuNiFer is a more recent alloy that resists corrosion but is easier to work with. Almost too easy to over-bend.


    • #3
      Yes it is 5/16 Standard Fuel Line.

      It is pretty tricky putting the proper Bends in the Pre Cut to length and Flared Tubes that some Non-Studebaker Tubing Mfg's. THINK will fit your specific Model, without messing up the length you cannot fix.

      I think even an amateur DIY person should be able to do better than that, making His or Her own.
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner


      • #4
        Thanks for the feed back. I just woke up the engine after +40 years after having to rebuild the fuel pump and carb. Just removed the gas tank to clean out the varnish from gas left in it over time. Same reason I'm changing fuel lines. I read using muriatic acid does the job of removing the varnish. Anyone have a good or bad experience with this method?
        bills57 hawk


        • #5
          Haven’t worked with hydrochloric (muriatic) for an organic varnish before, but faster and more effective to me would be any of the more volatile solvents available at any of the home improvement retailers: MEK, lacquer thinner, VM&P thinner, etc. Whatever materials were originally suspended in fuel will also dissolve in these mineral spirits. The risk is that in the course of cleaning, you will still make a fairly explosive atmosphere inside the tank, so no sparks, grinding, heat of course.

          For rust removal, yes muriatic is still a great cleaner, but absolutely neutralize it when finished.


          • #6
            Contact, or either "may" have a pre-bent line, or the patterns to do it

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            • #7
              Can confirm that hydrochloric acid will not touch organics. It works very well on rusty steel, though. Not sure what effects it would have on zinc castings (probably not good); it does make for a fairly violent thermal event if you introduce it to aluminum.

              Will echo Dave on the MEK for varnish... acetone, toluene, etc. are quite good too. A non-flammable option would be sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide... both common ingredients in stuff like Castrol Super Clean, Purple Power, and Drano. Those are pretty easy to work with, though they will etch paint and aluminum.
              Whirling dervish of misinformation.