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C/K rack and pinion

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  • t walgamuth
    replied
    It sounds like installing a complete front subframe might be attractive with all new ball joints, a sway bar etc. Anybody done that?

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  • yeroldad
    replied
    Originally posted by sweetolbob View Post
    This is a Flaming River Chevelle conversion kit. Cost is about $3900, I'm not suggesting you spend that but the principle should work with about any R&P set up to convert it to a center tie rod mount that's necessary for a Studebaker setup.

    Click image for larger version

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    Bob
    I hadn't thought of a setup like that, and it would be fairly easy to fab up, and heating/bending the steering arms is a great idea also. Seems like you could use most any rack and it would work. Thanks! PS: I've been off SDC for a bit, sorry for not replying sooner.

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  • 4NStudy
    replied
    Car Fix - Season 10 Episode 6. Check it out. The boys are working on the front end of a '51 Starlight. A good source to learn about all the don'ts. Being able to see what some of the terms "look like" was very helpful (to me any).

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  • bensherb
    replied
    Originally posted by r1lark View Post

    Nice job bending/shortening the steering arms! I had not thought of this. Folks do similar all the time on early Ford spindles to gain tie rod clearance on dropped axles. In fact, the 'old school' method of dropping early Ford axles was the same basic process.
    Yep! I've done more than a few of them too; decades ago. With the new stuff available from places like Super Bell (reasonably priced too), there's not much need anymore.

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  • bensherb
    replied
    Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
    The other option is to shorten the threaded end and re-machine the taper and threaded portion. However, the machinist who did this for me said, "Don't bring those in here ever again."

    jack vines
    I was a prototype machinist for many years. I would have said the same thing, that would be the masochistic approach!

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  • Alan
    replied
    You can get almost straight arms off a 59 to 62 T cab truck, but you have to re-position the key way.

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  • r1lark
    replied
    Originally posted by bensherb View Post

    You don't need to weld anything to shorten the arms. Just heat and bend them.
    Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_0951.JPG Views:	0 Size:	123.7 KB ID:	1891701
    Nice job bending/shortening the steering arms! I had not thought of this. Folks do similar all the time on early Ford spindles to gain tie rod clearance on dropped axles. In fact, the 'old school' method of dropping early Ford axles was the same basic process.

    Leave a comment:


  • PackardV8
    replied
    The other option is to shorten the threaded end and re-machine the taper and threaded portion. However, the machinist who did this for me said, "Don't bring those in here ever again."

    jack vines

    Leave a comment:


  • bensherb
    replied
    Originally posted by yeroldad View Post
    Seems like I'm gonna be on my own on this job. I was hoping to find someone who had done it, with none of the experimentation. Now I'm leaning toward the short arms and adding power steering. And, being a cheap SOB, I will probably shorten the arms myself. Done lots of fab work (like 50 years+) and I am very proficient at welding. I'm getting lazy though. Got a long way to go on the car yet so maybe something will come up down the line. Thanks for your input!
    You don't need to weld anything to shorten the arms. Just heat and bend them.

    These are what they sell, I understand they were for Avanti originally.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	quick steering arm.JPG Views:	0 Size:	8.1 KB ID:	1891700
    These are some I heated and bent, compared to a stock one (on top). I didn't want it as short as what they sell. After 60 years, the only way I found to get them out of the spindles is to remove the spindles from the car and use a press to get them out.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0951.JPG Views:	0 Size:	123.7 KB ID:	1891701

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  • gordr
    replied
    Here's a thought: build something like the Chevelle setup above, but mount it in front of the crossmember, and couple it to the cylinder arm on a Studebaker bellcrank made for bendix power steering. You would get all the R&P advantages, but retain the exact original Studebaker steering geometry. You'd need to build a very long steering shaft with several U-joints, and probably a collapsible section for collision safety, but I think there would be room to do it.

    Leave a comment:


  • sweetolbob
    replied
    This is a Flaming River Chevelle conversion kit. Cost is about $3900, I'm not suggesting you spend that but the principle should work with about any R&P set up to convert it to a center tie rod mount that's necessary for a Studebaker setup.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	fr313ktk_68-72_chevelle_kit_pnt_key_col_002.jpg
Views:	284
Size:	26.9 KB
ID:	1891409
    Bob

    Leave a comment:


  • yeroldad
    replied
    Seems like I'm gonna be on my own on this job. I was hoping to find someone who had done it, with none of the experimentation. Now I'm leaning toward the short arms and adding power steering. And, being a cheap SOB, I will probably shorten the arms myself. Done lots of fab work (like 50 years+) and I am very proficient at welding. I'm getting lazy though. Got a long way to go on the car yet so maybe something will come up down the line. Thanks for your input!

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul Keller
    replied
    Several (about 10-12) years ago I installed a CTO (center take off) R&P off of an 89 - 96 Skylark (the performance one w/ 15-16" wheels, NOT w/ 14" wheels). I'm on the third version now (installed 2019, which is working quite well). Problems? getting the rack C/L far enough forward to correctly align w/ the steering arm (substituted the "fast steer" arm available from S.I. and others - A needed change in order to get full lock-to-lock turning)). Also needed to fab' an adapter to provide steering linkage attachment at the rear of the rack (stock is front take-off). also took a few tries to get the rack -to-frame brackets done correctly (it is a very tight fit to avoid misalignment with the steering geometry.
    Also required a few welding classes at the local community college (the early welds were done by shops -became expensive as a trial and error method (in my case lots of errors) for good fitment.

    Very easy to steer, more precise than stock (less play even after a complete rebuild of the linkage). Was it worth it? As an experiment, absolutely. Will you find it worthwhile, well . . . .? (try it and find out). Current problem is finding a rack - New or rebuilt units are not currently available, used units may or may not be in good condition.

    Importantly, enjoy the process and its problem solving, PaulK

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  • jts359
    replied
    The reason I used the XJ6 rack also was it fit perfectly and I was familiar with it , My brother owns the car now and 25 years later the used rack I put in needed to be rebuilt , But he found one already rebuilt and purchased it , Ed

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  • yeroldad
    replied
    Mike, Thanks for the info. It's pretty much the way I have done it in the past. The 'trick' is to get the right width rack to match up with the 'lines'. As far as height, I have gotten the rack tie rods as close to parallel as possible to the lower control arms. Looks like I'm gonna have to take some measurements and go hunting in the junk yard. The last one I did was on a 52 Desoto, and I used a Dodge Omni rack. It was the perfect width and works great.

    Leave a comment:

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