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  • Cool/Heat: Temp gage specifications

    I hope I can make this question make sense. the car is a 64 GT. Problem is my temp gage is pegging out past 240 deg. after it is run and warmed up. I check the radiator and engine temp with a digital temp scan and everything reads fine , 170 -180. No steam or overheating signs. The gage rises normally. My guess is either a faulty sending unit or gage. Can anyone tell me the correct factory specs for these units so I can test them. Example, the fuel gage & sending unit , - I believe the fuel units should read about 30 ohms full tank and about 246 ohms empty. Thanks again, Mark

  • #2
    Since the Gauge does work, I think all it COULD be is, you just need to replace the Temp. Sending Unit with the Correct New one: 1545220.

    Unless your Orange Wire is grounding out somewhere.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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    • #3
      It will also peg the needle if the wires are switched on the back.
      Bez Auto Alchemy
      573-318-8948
      http://bezautoalchemy.com


      "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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      • #4
        The wires being wrong on the back of the gauge has possibilities. The wiring has recently been put back in the car after 24 years. I forget allot of stuff in 24 years. As I mentioned the gauge seems to rise as you would expect but just keeps going past 240. Thanks for the insight. Mark

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        • #5
          The lower terminal takes the white w/ black tracer 12volt wire. Actually might be two wires together on one eyelet. The resistance readings are close to the same as for the fuel gauge, probably a little higher.
          So.....if I'm 'pre-approved' why do you want me to fill out an application?

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          • #6
            I inspected the wires today . All 3 are in the correct location on the back of the gauge. But- The white ground wire was loose. It's also a push on terminal and the 10-32 stud seems to be a little short for a good connection. I soldered up a little 10-32 stud extension for the ground and will try it tomorrow. Do you think a poor ground could could cause this scenario.
            Also, any idea who manufactured these gauges for Studebaker? S W , or AutoMeter?

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            • #7
              There IS NO ground, that is probably the White with Black Tracer Dwain said was the POWER Wire, do NOT Ground it!
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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              • #8
                The white wire probably goes to the high beam indicator.
                So.....if I'm 'pre-approved' why do you want me to fill out an application?

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                • #9
                  I did take allot of pictures when I took this apart. I also had a 1964 , full package R1 GT Hawk parts car that I disassembled . They both has a white push on ground ?????
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    Since Hawk dashes are fiberglass, the gauges do HAVE to be grounded at the case. Yes, Studebaker did provide that with the white push on connectors. You can tell they are the ground as the molded right angle end is also white. The other power connection would have a black molded end.
                    Bez Auto Alchemy
                    573-318-8948
                    http://bezautoalchemy.com


                    "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      With the help of a good friend I have come up with some numbers to test the gauge. Using a resistance substitution box these are the numbers at the gauge.
                      cold - 470 ohms= 100 deg, 330 ohms = 110 deg, 220 ohms = 120 deg, 150 ohms = 140 deg, 100 ohms =150 deg, 68 ohms = 180 deg, 47 ohms = 230 deg.
                      Numbers are approximates , Hope this may help others .

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