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bleed brakes when changing brake light switch 60 lark? or put in a universal near the pedal?

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  • mw2013
    replied
    i just liked the bikes and had no clue that one was easier to work on that others,they are all hard , they tend to fall over on fork work
    still the rear brake light for these things are the way to go for my stude at some point

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  • bensherb
    replied
    It's not unusual for a bike to have a mechanical switch like that on the rear brake even with hydraulic brakes, I've worked on many like that. Some of the newer bikes I've worked on have had micro switches on the lever but many use the Hydro switch, especially if they have dual brakes and a line splitter. I've never cared much for Yamahas, they go too far out of their way to make them difficult to work on. The three I have are small single cylinder road track bikes, so they have NO extraneous crap on them.

    What is a "ht hydraulic one" ?

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  • mw2013
    replied
    all the bikes i had , used the spring type in the rear, pull the spring with the rear pedal and light goes on, the front was a micro switch, but i had an RD400, fj1100 x2, fazer, seca 750, cbr600, xs1100, mostly yamahas



    not to offend anyone but ht hydraulic ones are not a good design

    Click image for larger version

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  • bensherb
    replied
    Originally posted by mw2013 View Post
    the swtich in there don't look like no 60 year old nothing, it's shiny

    what bike is that? all the bikes i had , used mech switches, but then again they were all japanese bikes, i thought DOT 5 is something new, i have never seen a pressure switch used for a stop light, only a mechanical with a spring action and you say you have numerous vehicles with these types of switches? how lucky are you?
    All my bikes that have hydraulic brakes have hydraulic brake light switches. The ones with mechanical brakes have mechanical switches. I have 2 Harley, 3 Yamaha, 4 Kawasaki and 6 Honda. All the Kawi's, one Harley and two Hondas have hydraulic brake light switches (I had a Suzuki, it too had a hydro switch: sold it) , they're also the larger bikes. The other Harley, while being a large bike, is old enough not to have hydraulic brakes.

    I first used DOT 5 fluid in 1979 when I changed the fluid in one of my Kawasaki's.

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  • mw2013
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post

    That might work for some people Gary, but most would probably be driving without Stop Lights before they found out.

    Unless you back your Car in the Garage (not recommended) and Have a Mirror on the Back Wall or do it at Night and remember to check them every day, OR have a Ammeter and remember to check them, you can't be SURE they still work.

    I have done them on the under the floor Pedals and also the easier one to do, the '61 to '66 Larks and Lark Types BOTH Are the way to go!
    I usually leave the Hydraulic Switch and Wires connected and dead just for kicks, I would NEVER do that to make it look original! .
    i tied the pedal to the wheel and took a flag pole to the brakes, afterward and saw it work

    i think a motorcycle brake switch near that bottom spring with a tin can bracket would be easier to do than the major hacking measuring and drilling, fitting work with the lever switch

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-M...Cclp%3A2334524


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    Last edited by mw2013; 03-09-2021, 05:11 PM.

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  • mw2013
    replied
    Originally posted by 6hk71400 View Post
    Rarely have I had a stoplight switch failure but when I did, I carefully took the switch off. I could see fluid at the top of the switch opening and carefully dialed in the new switch. I did not allow air into the line.

    Bob Miles
    thanks gave me confidence to switch it out , bleeding is hell

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  • 6hk71400
    replied
    Rarely have I had a stoplight switch failure but when I did, I carefully took the switch off. I could see fluid at the top of the switch opening and carefully dialed in the new switch. I did not allow air into the line.

    Bob Miles

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    i bought the lifetime one, i may buy a spare,to figure out something else the video you put up is a bit involved,i have to get down there to look, but first off idle hesitation and hot starts
    Last edited by mw2013; 03-08-2021, 03:05 PM.

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Originally posted by studegary View Post
    If AutoZone, or someone else. is willing to give you a lifetime warrantee in writing, I would just buy their replacement switch, put it in immediately upon removing the old one and then not worry about it until it fails again.
    That might work for some people Gary, but most would probably be driving without Stop Lights before they found out.

    Unless you back your Car in the Garage (not recommended) and Have a Mirror on the Back Wall or do it at Night and remember to check them every day, OR have a Ammeter and remember to check them, you can't be SURE they still work.

    I have done them on the under the floor Pedals and also the easier one to do, the '61 to '66 Larks and Lark Types BOTH Are the way to go!
    I usually leave the Hydraulic Switch and Wires connected and dead just for kicks, I would NEVER do that to make it look original! .

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    Originally posted by BRUCESTUDE View Post
    I installed a mechanical brake light switch on my ‘60 Lark, using the common lever operated one. The main reason I did this retrofit is to have “instant on” brake lights for my aftermarket cruise control; with the hydraulic switch I had to jab the brakes to operate the brake lights/and disconnect the cruise. With the the mechanical switch it takes just a tap to blink the brake lights.
    i think LEDs has a fast reaction time as well

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  • mw2013
    replied
    Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
    True, the original type 1/8" pipe threaded switches for our Studes (both NOS and repro) will fail prematurely (usually less than a year) with DOT-5. The fix I found was a Harley DOT-5 switch, but not their earlier version. Their early version looks exactly like our Stude version, and also fails prematurely. Harley's later version is longer and skinnier, but screws right in place, and is a PERMANENT fix. If I recall it, as everything else from Harley, was not cheap, maybe $35-$40.
    ironic the dot 5 suppose to alleviate problems, but it causes them as well, what's in it and what fails in the switch? a rubber diaphragm?

    nice research
    Last edited by mw2013; 03-08-2021, 11:56 AM.

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  • BRUCESTUDE
    replied
    I installed a mechanical brake light switch on my ‘60 Lark, using the common lever operated one. The main reason I did this retrofit is to have “instant on” brake lights for my aftermarket cruise control; with the hydraulic switch I had to jab the brakes to operate the brake lights/and disconnect the cruise. With the the mechanical switch it takes just a tap to blink the brake lights.

    Leave a comment:


  • studegary
    replied
    Originally posted by mw2013 View Post

    what is the lifespan of these things in a DOT5 environment? there is always something, i don't think mixing the 2 is that great right?, i called autozone,"lifetime warrantee"
    If AutoZone, or someone else. is willing to give you a lifetime warrantee in writing, I would just buy their replacement switch, put it in immediately upon removing the old one and then not worry about it until it fails again.

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeHall
    replied
    True, the original type 1/8" pipe threaded switches for our Studes (both NOS and repro) will fail prematurely (usually less than a year) with DOT-5. The fix I found was a Harley DOT-5 switch, but not their earlier version. Their early version looks exactly like our Stude version, and also fails prematurely. Harley's later version is longer and skinnier, but screws right in place, and is a PERMANENT fix. If I recall it, as everything else from Harley, was not cheap, maybe $35-$40.

    Leave a comment:


  • jts359
    replied
    Some people are very lucky , or they dont have brake lights , Ed

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