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WCFB carb choke

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  • doofus
    replied
    Yes, that is the bushing my faulty memory found. i have never seen one in practice but have 3 WCFB's left so their is still hope! Luck Doofus

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  • Dwain G.
    replied
    That service bulletin mentioned in Popular Mechanics is bogus. There is NO 'E' service letters. There is a 6-page service letter, S-1038. The tube (Studebaker #1556402) is shown there along with several other mods. There is also a Carter Bulletin attached here. Some have made their own tube using 5/32" OD brass tube, 5/8" long. Both ends need to be tapered slightly

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  • NCDave51
    replied
    I’m just glad this thread wasn’t titled “Miss Schilling’s Orifice”. This is a family channel...

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  • Jeffry Cassel
    replied
    Miss Schilling's orifice. The RAF found that the Spitfire with its carbureted engine was a match for the ME 109, except for the problem of the engine starving and cutting out when negative Gs were applied. An aeronautical engineer Miss Schilling solved the problem with a modification the pilots dubbed "Miss Schilling's orifice" She actually went from base to base and installed the mod herself to be sure it was done right. By the time of the Battle of Britain, all Spitfires were pulling neg G's without a sputter. (I'm sure you are all happy to learn this tidbit of history, but she is an unsung hero that no one has ever heard of.)

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  • NCDave51
    replied
    Originally posted by showbizkid View Post

    Found it! From Popular Mechanics October, 1962 issue:

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    Great sleuthing!

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  • showbizkid
    replied
    Originally posted by doofus View Post
    IIRC it's a small bushing that prevents fuel sloshing and getting in choke vacuum port on those drifting lefties LOL Luck Doofus
    Found it! From Popular Mechanics October, 1962 issue:

    Click image for larger version

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ID:	1884409

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  • jackb
    replied
    Who did the rebuild ???? All choke settings can be different for different carbs & vehicles. The spring inside the choke housing is most usually very accurate, spring to spring / carb to carb. What I find as a good starting point is to warm the engine up to operating temps....then adjust the spring loaded choke mechanism so that the choke valve just starts to move off the fully open position. Its possible you may have to tweak this setting for colder starts.....

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  • doofus
    replied
    IIRC it's a small bushing that prevents fuel sloshing and getting in choke vacuum port on those drifting lefties LOL Luck Doofus

    Leave a comment:


  • showbizkid
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeffry Cassel View Post
    Use a drill bit to set unloader Don't drop it!!
    I have found that securing the bit into a drill chuck removed from an electric drill solves that problem

    Originally posted by Jeffry Cassel View Post
    They are a sweet carburetor except for that problem of cutting out in a 4 wheel drift.
    I've experienced that problem with Barney! Not drifting of course but on left-turns through larger intersections at speeds of 40 MPH or more. I remember there being a fix for this of installing a baffle in the bowl to keep the fuel from sloshing over - if I can find that reference I'll post it.

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  • Jeffry Cassel
    replied

    They are a sweet carburetor except for that problem of cutting out in a 4 wheel drift. I would hazzard a guess that most of us septogenarians don't do that very often anymore. And , yes Joe, they must be set up properly. It is actully kind of a fun thing to do. I think the Manual might have better instructions and you know the adjustments are meant for a Studebaker.

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  • JoeHall
    replied
    If you don't have a Shop Manual, really oughta consider getting one. The instructions will put the WCFB dead on with all specs, which are necessary for it to run right, as I recall.

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    All Echlin/NAPA Repair Kits I have bought have very detailed Instructions for ALL Adjustments including Choke, if they no longer do, THAT could be a problem requiring getting out the Studebaker Shop Manual.

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  • Jeffry Cassel
    replied
    Refer to the "Unloader setting " on rebuild instruction or in the shop manual. From memory (which isn't that reliable) I believe it is about 3/16" with throttle held wide open cold. From there you want to start with it at the index setting and then make small changes lean it if it loads up and make it richer if it is starved for gas and requires accel. pumping to keep it going. Sometimes takes a while. I've had the pressure box off my 57 Clipper 3 times and I'm finally pretty close! Way easier for you to adjust. Use a drill bit to set unloader Don't drop it!!

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  • jims53
    started a topic Fuel System: WCFB carb choke

    WCFB carb choke

    How do you set up a automatic choke after rebuild of a 1957 WCFB carb?
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