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can any ford starter solenoid work in my 60v lark?

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  • doofus
    replied
    Mason, if you suspect a bad solenoid you can jump it with that pair of honda branded pliers you keep in the glove box, just jump across the batt terminals with the handles. sparks mean the batt is good, dont forget to turn on the ign switch and set brake. Luck Doofus

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Yeah, you WILL be cussing if a Solenoid fails or the Battery goes dead and you disabled the Key Locks!

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    by then it is too late, if it's in my hand it is bought and paid for lmao

    it is not high technology and my relays controlling my door and trunk locks are all foreign made, so is my alarm at some point it just has to fail before the cussing begins

    Leave a comment:


  • jackb
    replied
    Echlin can be Mexicano or Chinex......check the box.....

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    it started after i put the starter back in

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  • mw2013
    replied
    Originally posted by jackb View Post
    FWIW....... I'd more likely buy 2 Chinex solenoids for the road.... your system will thank you for it.......
    i think i will need the echlin

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  • jackb
    replied
    FWIW....... I'd more likely buy 2 Chinex solenoids for the road.... your system will thank you for it.......

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    Originally posted by 6hk71400 View Post
    There must be a shop that does specialize in California for rebuilding starters and generators. They may have a rebuilt starter that the client dropped off but for some reason did not pick it up. If you have the original starter, check to see if they will rebuild it.

    One good lasting reliable rebuilt starter for $90.00 or 10 $9.00 starters with a 30 feet, 30 seconds reliability.

    Check the vendor issue in March Turning Wheels for the California Vendors. It will be worth it, unless you like looking at your car instead of driving it.

    Bob Miles
    so we are not sure it's a starter issue, i reached out to a local re-builder and he wants 280.00 to do it no tax if paid in cash.

    i need to drive it, i am focused on figuring it out, my starter spins with 12volts, my solenoid clicks with key to start, so ign switch is good, i jump the solenoid before i yanked the starter and it did not crank, but i made a mistake and used a very small gauge remote start made for refrigeration repair and possible did not supply enough current cold cranking amps to turn the starter, ths little wire got hot.

    will reinstall the starter in the morning and start the diagnosis all over again

    i turned the engine fan and damper by hand; so the engine is not frozen with the mickey mouse mouse that can blow your engine aluminum in the heat riser don't f'n do it mod.

    Leave a comment:


  • 6hk71400
    replied
    There must be a shop that does specialize in California for rebuilding starters and generators. They may have a rebuilt starter that the client dropped off but for some reason did not pick it up. If you have the original starter, check to see if they will rebuild it.

    One good lasting reliable rebuilt starter for $90.00 or 10 $9.00 starters with a 30 feet, 30 seconds reliability.

    Check the vendor issue in March Turning Wheels for the California Vendors. It will be worth it, unless you like looking at your car instead of driving it.

    Bob Miles

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    Originally posted by tsenecal View Post
    Agreed. Quality on electrical parts is a huge issue. Better to try to find a name brand part. Look up Echlin ST-81
    now you tell me 17.99

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NAPA-Echlin...UAAOSwU5ZgGtNq

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    autozone and orielly sell the same crap, they all come from the same factory, and get a private label

    my personal rule is , if it's easy to get to in 2 minutes to 30 minutes, like fan belt go cheap, if it's buried, i.e. rear main seal, trans rear seal, rear axle bearings, heater core, cam bearings, go for the best

    maybe this is real or counterfeit?

    can't trust nobody, they are all fakes, FLAPS all sell fakes

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-1959-19...Cclp%3A2334524
    Last edited by mw2013; 03-04-2021, 05:05 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • RadioRoy
    replied
    But, don't forget, our OP is learning to be a CASO. He is self teaching.

    Leave a comment:


  • tsenecal
    replied
    Agreed. Quality on electrical parts is a huge issue. Better to try to find a name brand part. Look up Echlin ST-81

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Yes, you can tell an Ad for Cheap Chinese Re-Pop's of Good USA Brands of Parts pretty easy.

    First it's a AMF = AMF Industrial.

    Then it's a Standard Motor Products ... (LIE!)

    THEN,
    it's a Heavy Duty, SW3, DTS Brand, 05-66-200 !!!

    They are often full of Lies, and BS like this one.

    This Review says:

    Very poor design and shoddy manufacturing. NOT reliable!

    Didn't work first try. As I put negative to battery on this old project engine, and it sparked, which is not good. Finally found that this new solenoid was stuck ON. Played with it a lot, cycled it, pulled wires off and on, and sometimes it showed good, but sometimes stuck on. I drilled out the rivets and inspected it, and it's obvious what the problem was.....bad and shoddy engineering! The 5/16" terminal studs are the stationary contact points inside, with a flat that the copper contact plate pulls and shorts out. That's fine, but there was nothing to index the flat contact surface of the stud in the plastic housing to keep it from rotating. As it rotated, the flat contact surface pushed up into the copper contact disc, shorting it out without the disc being pulled in. Most solenoids will have heavy molded indents for the stud to index to keep it from rotating like this. This one depends only on the assembler ensuring that the contact surface is flat, then tightening the outside nut down on the external tooth lock washer to keep it from rotating and causing the shorting problem. Unfortunately, the plastic of the housing is softer than the lock washer, and when you try to attach anything to the stud, it will rotate as you torque it down. A jam nut would of helped, but they didn't even do that. I should have left the 50 year old solenoid on the engine, since it was working fine after all that time, but just looked old. This new one may look good, but it didn't even last one use.

    Another Clue is, you find the same Part for $8.15, $8.00, $9.00 sometimes the SAME Ad by 2 or 3 different Seller Names and Locations all in the US.
    FAKES, Fakes and More fakes, and ALL the Same Junk.

    THIS is probably what is on your Lark Now!

    I wonder how the "Reviewer's" that say: "Great BUY", will feel about this in 6 Months?

    Is ANYBODY on eBay anymore, Not a Crook?
    Last edited by StudeRich; 03-04-2021, 03:43 PM.

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  • mw2013
    replied
    thanks gents, a link even, i saw that one and wanted to confirm, much appreciated!

    Leave a comment:

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