Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

289 automatic lark starter removed and spins with 12v, but not in car

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • NCDave51
    replied
    So am I. Each to his own Lark I suppose.

    Leave a comment:


  • Corbinstein0
    replied
    well, I'm done wasting my breath.

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    Originally posted by NCDave51 View Post

    At the chance that this added electrical places to fail (and resistance in long cables), why did you go to the effort of moving the battery to the rear?
    weight transfer mainly for better weight distribution and it made the remote trunk release install way easier i discovered, and i can lay tools where the battery "was" when i work on the engine as i have discovered, any help in the handling dept I am for., and the wiring was done correctly, good grounds and sportive cable to the solenoid

    Leave a comment:


  • jackb
    replied
    I'm amiss on flex plates grinding. If they are broken, weakened, or maybe have loose or poor bolt tightening...... they will make rod like knocking noises..... as far as I've experienced. I was speaking specifically to the worn teeth on your converter (ring) gear. You can see definite wear very much more in some of the teeth. You might find 2 other locations on the gear with the same wear pattern. Your starter drive will find those worn teeth and continue to grind into them eventually causing the starter and converter gear to lock up. Had this happen before and after replacing 2 starter drives and rocking the vehicle, or pulling the starter out (then replacing) I bought some time as you can/ will / might. You will need to turn over or replace the converter gear at some time or continue to have issues....... And they will likely be very intermittent.

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    Originally posted by jackb View Post
    I do see shoulders on what might be the bolts coming the other way..... I definitely see significant wear to several (many?) teeth on the converter gear. Unfortunately, the starter will eventually worsen those ground teeth and will lock up your starter, and as a result no start....... Wasn't that what your "real" concern is (i.e.solenoid???)
    i think all flex plates experience some sort of teeth grinding, what does locking up mean?

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    i tighten the crap out of them they are bolts not studs, they were loose, not falling off loose but not up to spec whatever that is

    Leave a comment:


  • jackb
    replied
    I do see shoulders on what might be the bolts coming the other way..... I definitely see significant wear to several (many?) teeth on the converter gear. Unfortunately, the starter will eventually worsen those ground teeth and will lock up your starter, and as a result no start....... Wasn't that what your "real" concern is (i.e.solenoid???)

    Leave a comment:


  • Son O Lark
    replied
    Studs instead of starter bolts? How much play is there?

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    Originally posted by Corbinstein0 View Post
    In the picture of the temporary, the 250 amp and wire combination is waaaaay to small. Most batteries are 600CCA and the wire gauge should be sized for the car. I tend to use welding cable myself.

    Another thing electrically speaking: make sure the electrical connections are squeaky clean. including the mounting surface of the starter, that serves as the ground for the starter itself.
    i shakedown drove the car daily for 1200 miles in city driving and wanted a thinner cable, 4 gauge was perfect i bought 20 feet used 17-18 and it does not get hot and supplies plenty of cranking current, so i am good, a 2 gauge would have been too thick under the carpet, i think this welding cable you read about all over the web is not required, i guess everyone is ill advised, tricked, scammed, bullied or scared into buying the fattest most non flexible space hogging girth of a cable to do what?

    i am not running 10.5 compression.

    it works for me and it was used audio cable , super flexible and only 15 bucks used on ebay, yes i bought it used, copper is copper,

    you are right the 250 works most of the time, I have it there for a dead short or an accident, so it the cable grounds i don't have a fire, it cranks the car no problem.

    however..........


    on vapor lock cuntinual cranking it trips and it's a nightmare,( but the cable never even gets warm) at 4 gauge, so a 300A is ordered and coming

    and working on vapor lock now, i need it to start after an errand, otherwise it is not a car

    i believe i wiped the surface, but the oil is gona get in there anyways, since the plate is painted maybe it is not intended to conduct power, only the 2 bolts? anyways it starts, i think it popped into drive and stopped it from starting, not the first time for me, just i am a stupid operator


    Click image for larger version  Name:	103_0185.JPG Views:	0 Size:	99.4 KB ID:	1884278Click image for larger version  Name:	103_0175.JPG Views:	0 Size:	61.5 KB ID:	1884279Click image for larger version  Name:	103_0176.JPG Views:	0 Size:	99.1 KB ID:	1884280
    Click image for larger version  Name:	103_0188.JPG Views:	0 Size:	71.6 KB ID:	1884281
    Click image for larger version  Name:	103_0186.JPG Views:	0 Size:	121.5 KB ID:	1884282

    Leave a comment:


  • NCDave51
    replied
    Originally posted by mw2013 View Post

    when i moved the battery to the rear, inline the pos cable i put in a 250a breaker, when the car would not start, that breaker would trip, meaning the starter created a load high enough to trip a 250 amp circuit breaker, so i think the switch is activating the solenoid and subsequently the big cable power supply to the starter

    i think the PO said the switch was new, however i find it sticky to the start position the return spring is weak idk if that is a factory glitch of studebaker

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20201129_145538.jpg
Views:	160
Size:	143.3 KB
ID:	1883707
    At the chance that this added electrical places to fail (and resistance in long cables), why did you go to the effort of moving the battery to the rear?

    Leave a comment:


  • Corbinstein0
    replied
    In the picture of the temporary, the 250 amp and wire combination is waaaaay to small. Most batteries are 600CCA and the wire gauge should be sized for the car. I tend to use welding cable myself.

    Another thing electrically speaking: make sure the electrical connections are squeaky clean. including the mounting surface of the starter, that serves as the ground for the starter itself.

    Last edited by Corbinstein0; 03-08-2021, 04:14 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    Originally posted by ronstrasser View Post
    mn2013
    Purchase a new ignition switch from one of the Studebaker vendors listed in the latest Turning Wheels
    See if you can turn over the engine with the fan blade

    With the starter installed remove the wire from the small S terminal on the Solenoid. It should be the terminal next to the cable from the battery. Then run a jumper wire from the + terminal on the battery to the S terminal. The solenoid should click and if installed the engine should turn over.

    If not the trouble could be with the starter solenoid or the heavy wire between the battery and the starter or the starter itself. It takes much more power from the battery to turn the engine then it takes to make the starter spin.

    With a heavy wire you could go directly from the battery to the starter, eliminating the solenoid.


    Good Luck
    Ron
    when i took out the starter the terminal was clean and thigh, odd thing was the solenoid did not have an authoritative click, when the issue first surfaced, but yesterday the clicking sans starter was loud and clear, this was bu the key in the switch method and not jumpering it

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    Originally posted by jackb View Post
    I'm leaning towards a faulty ignition switch that if not fixed now (for clarification of this issue) will likely fail on the road, at night, on the highway, with only semi's blowing your hood closed............
    when i moved the battery to the rear, inline the pos cable i put in a 250a breaker, when the car would not start, that breaker would trip, meaning the starter created a load high enough to trip a 250 amp circuit breaker, so i think the switch is activating the solenoid and subsequently the big cable power supply to the starter

    i think the PO said the switch was new, however i find it sticky to the start position the return spring is weak idk if that is a factory glitch of studebaker

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20201129_145538.jpg
Views:	160
Size:	143.3 KB
ID:	1883707

    Leave a comment:


  • ronstrasser
    replied
    mn2013
    Purchase a new ignition switch from one of the Studebaker vendors listed in the latest Turning Wheels
    See if you can turn over the engine with the fan blade

    With the starter installed remove the wire from the small S terminal on the Solenoid. It should be the terminal next to the cable from the battery. Then run a jumper wire from the + terminal on the battery to the S terminal. The solenoid should click and if installed the engine should turn over.

    If not the trouble could be with the starter solenoid or the heavy wire between the battery and the starter or the starter itself. It takes much more power from the battery to turn the engine then it takes to make the starter spin.

    With a heavy wire you could go directly from the battery to the starter, eliminating the solenoid.


    Good Luck
    Ron

    Leave a comment:


  • jackb
    replied
    I'm leaning towards a faulty ignition switch that if not fixed now (for clarification of this issue) will likely fail on the road, at night, on the highway, with only semi's blowing your hood closed............

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X