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289 automatic lark starter removed and spins with 12v, but not in car

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  • #16
    I do see shoulders on what might be the bolts coming the other way..... I definitely see significant wear to several (many?) teeth on the converter gear. Unfortunately, the starter will eventually worsen those ground teeth and will lock up your starter, and as a result no start....... Wasn't that what your "real" concern is (i.e.solenoid???)

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    • #17
      i tighten the crap out of them they are bolts not studs, they were loose, not falling off loose but not up to spec whatever that is

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      • #18
        Originally posted by jackb View Post
        I do see shoulders on what might be the bolts coming the other way..... I definitely see significant wear to several (many?) teeth on the converter gear. Unfortunately, the starter will eventually worsen those ground teeth and will lock up your starter, and as a result no start....... Wasn't that what your "real" concern is (i.e.solenoid???)
        i think all flex plates experience some sort of teeth grinding, what does locking up mean?

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        • #19
          I'm amiss on flex plates grinding. If they are broken, weakened, or maybe have loose or poor bolt tightening...... they will make rod like knocking noises..... as far as I've experienced. I was speaking specifically to the worn teeth on your converter (ring) gear. You can see definite wear very much more in some of the teeth. You might find 2 other locations on the gear with the same wear pattern. Your starter drive will find those worn teeth and continue to grind into them eventually causing the starter and converter gear to lock up. Had this happen before and after replacing 2 starter drives and rocking the vehicle, or pulling the starter out (then replacing) I bought some time as you can/ will / might. You will need to turn over or replace the converter gear at some time or continue to have issues....... And they will likely be very intermittent.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by NCDave51 View Post

            At the chance that this added electrical places to fail (and resistance in long cables), why did you go to the effort of moving the battery to the rear?
            weight transfer mainly for better weight distribution and it made the remote trunk release install way easier i discovered, and i can lay tools where the battery "was" when i work on the engine as i have discovered, any help in the handling dept I am for., and the wiring was done correctly, good grounds and sportive cable to the solenoid

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            • #21
              well, I'm done wasting my breath.

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              • #22
                So am I. Each to his own Lark I suppose.

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