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289 automatic lark starter removed and spins with 12v, but not in car

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  • Ignition: 289 automatic lark starter removed and spins with 12v, but not in car

    Lark stopped starting, need to check it out further and jump the solenoid, is there a fuse or breaker somewhere? lights work, idiot lights up, switch don't spring back from start position, never has since i got it, now no sound from the starter
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    Last edited by mw2013; 03-04-2021, 10:41 AM.

  • #2
    The ignition switch has been known to go bad. Use a remote starter to by pass the switch.

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    • #3
      had the car for a few months and the switch would not spring back off of start position most of the time, still does not, i can hear the solenoid engaging, not 100% sure, will need to set aside another day to check it out

      but the on position does light up the idiot lights

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      • #4
        i do have a problem, i took the starter out and gave it 12v and it spins, i jumped the solenoid and it does not crank the engine, i turn the gear left and right and it does not go back it, is the starter ok? or is the engine froze?

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        • #5
          I believe the bendix has to spin about 400 RPM to spring back. You can try using a wire
          wheel to spin it or reinstall the way it is.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by paul shuffleburg View Post
            I believe the bendix has to spin about 400 RPM to spring back. You can try using a wire
            wheel to spin it or reinstall the way it is.
            idk what a wire wheel is and there is no cranking

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            • #7
              A Bench Grinder with a Wire wheel on one end can spin the Starter and it MAY retract, so you can install it.
              It's that easy!

              Also, maybe you need to put a Volt Meter on the Starter Side Terminal of the Solenoid and Test for 12 Volts when the "S" small Terminal is jumped to Batt. Plus Post to see if the Solenoid works.
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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              • #8
                I'm leaning towards a faulty ignition switch that if not fixed now (for clarification of this issue) will likely fail on the road, at night, on the highway, with only semi's blowing your hood closed............

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                • #9
                  mn2013
                  Purchase a new ignition switch from one of the Studebaker vendors listed in the latest Turning Wheels
                  See if you can turn over the engine with the fan blade

                  With the starter installed remove the wire from the small S terminal on the Solenoid. It should be the terminal next to the cable from the battery. Then run a jumper wire from the + terminal on the battery to the S terminal. The solenoid should click and if installed the engine should turn over.

                  If not the trouble could be with the starter solenoid or the heavy wire between the battery and the starter or the starter itself. It takes much more power from the battery to turn the engine then it takes to make the starter spin.

                  With a heavy wire you could go directly from the battery to the starter, eliminating the solenoid.


                  Good Luck
                  Ron

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by jackb View Post
                    I'm leaning towards a faulty ignition switch that if not fixed now (for clarification of this issue) will likely fail on the road, at night, on the highway, with only semi's blowing your hood closed............
                    when i moved the battery to the rear, inline the pos cable i put in a 250a breaker, when the car would not start, that breaker would trip, meaning the starter created a load high enough to trip a 250 amp circuit breaker, so i think the switch is activating the solenoid and subsequently the big cable power supply to the starter

                    i think the PO said the switch was new, however i find it sticky to the start position the return spring is weak idk if that is a factory glitch of studebaker

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ronstrasser View Post
                      mn2013
                      Purchase a new ignition switch from one of the Studebaker vendors listed in the latest Turning Wheels
                      See if you can turn over the engine with the fan blade

                      With the starter installed remove the wire from the small S terminal on the Solenoid. It should be the terminal next to the cable from the battery. Then run a jumper wire from the + terminal on the battery to the S terminal. The solenoid should click and if installed the engine should turn over.

                      If not the trouble could be with the starter solenoid or the heavy wire between the battery and the starter or the starter itself. It takes much more power from the battery to turn the engine then it takes to make the starter spin.

                      With a heavy wire you could go directly from the battery to the starter, eliminating the solenoid.


                      Good Luck
                      Ron
                      when i took out the starter the terminal was clean and thigh, odd thing was the solenoid did not have an authoritative click, when the issue first surfaced, but yesterday the clicking sans starter was loud and clear, this was bu the key in the switch method and not jumpering it

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                      • #12
                        In the picture of the temporary, the 250 amp and wire combination is waaaaay to small. Most batteries are 600CCA and the wire gauge should be sized for the car. I tend to use welding cable myself.

                        Another thing electrically speaking: make sure the electrical connections are squeaky clean. including the mounting surface of the starter, that serves as the ground for the starter itself.

                        Last edited by Corbinstein0; 03-08-2021, 04:14 AM.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by mw2013 View Post

                          when i moved the battery to the rear, inline the pos cable i put in a 250a breaker, when the car would not start, that breaker would trip, meaning the starter created a load high enough to trip a 250 amp circuit breaker, so i think the switch is activating the solenoid and subsequently the big cable power supply to the starter

                          i think the PO said the switch was new, however i find it sticky to the start position the return spring is weak idk if that is a factory glitch of studebaker

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                          At the chance that this added electrical places to fail (and resistance in long cables), why did you go to the effort of moving the battery to the rear?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Corbinstein0 View Post
                            In the picture of the temporary, the 250 amp and wire combination is waaaaay to small. Most batteries are 600CCA and the wire gauge should be sized for the car. I tend to use welding cable myself.

                            Another thing electrically speaking: make sure the electrical connections are squeaky clean. including the mounting surface of the starter, that serves as the ground for the starter itself.
                            i shakedown drove the car daily for 1200 miles in city driving and wanted a thinner cable, 4 gauge was perfect i bought 20 feet used 17-18 and it does not get hot and supplies plenty of cranking current, so i am good, a 2 gauge would have been too thick under the carpet, i think this welding cable you read about all over the web is not required, i guess everyone is ill advised, tricked, scammed, bullied or scared into buying the fattest most non flexible space hogging girth of a cable to do what?

                            i am not running 10.5 compression.

                            it works for me and it was used audio cable , super flexible and only 15 bucks used on ebay, yes i bought it used, copper is copper,

                            you are right the 250 works most of the time, I have it there for a dead short or an accident, so it the cable grounds i don't have a fire, it cranks the car no problem.

                            however..........


                            on vapor lock cuntinual cranking it trips and it's a nightmare,( but the cable never even gets warm) at 4 gauge, so a 300A is ordered and coming

                            and working on vapor lock now, i need it to start after an errand, otherwise it is not a car

                            i believe i wiped the surface, but the oil is gona get in there anyways, since the plate is painted maybe it is not intended to conduct power, only the 2 bolts? anyways it starts, i think it popped into drive and stopped it from starting, not the first time for me, just i am a stupid operator


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                            • #15
                              Studs instead of starter bolts? How much play is there?

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