Electrical: Voltage regulator question

[evilhawk]

Can a 12 volt voltage regulator that was used with a generator also be used with an alternator? The generator I have is from a 59 and the alternator is from a 63.

[RadioRoy]

Nope. Generators and alternators are completely different animals.

If the 63 alternator is from a Studebaker, you can usually find a regulator from a Plymouth Valiant or a Dodge Dart for reasonable money.

[evilhawk]

I really didn't think so, but thought I would ask. I was tossing around the idea of converting to an electric cooling fan, but it would require an alternator upgrade. I'm not even sure what amperage the alternator I have produces. It's from a 63 cruiser.

[Bud]

The stock alternator produces somewhere around 35 amps which is really low by today's standards. Bud

[swvalcon]

easiest alternator upgrade is a Gm one wire alternator and in the long run the cheapest way to go.

[evilhawk]

easiest alternator upgrade is a Gm one wire alternator and in the long run the cheapest way to go.

That's the route I'm going to take. Best bang for the buck and readily available. Thanks for the help everyone!

[Jeffry Cassel]

The newest replacement VR's are terrible. I've discovered that a solid state VR for a mid 60's Mopar works better with an alternator on a 63 or 64-- and it is much cheaper! Way cheaper than a new Delco alternator which you would need to 'make fit'

[StudeRich]

Unless you have an R4 Avanti 304 Engine in your Studebaker with 12 to One Compression, it should not get hot enough to need a High Amp draw Cooling Fan.

So go with Jeffry's suggestion in Post #7 and use what you have.

[64studeavanti]

You can get a rebuilt Delco 10SI for around $40 at your FLAPS. New ones are not much more expensive. They are internally regulated - no external regulator. I believe they came in a few different output ratings. I would think you may not want more than 50 amps if you plan on using existing wiring.

Bob Johnstone's web site has installation instructions. I had one on my 64 Avanti. Installation was not very difficult.

[studegary]

I go along with Rich (as usual). Find out and fix why you have a cooling problem rather than just adding more fan, especially if you are referring to the pictured Hawk and you are in Minn.

[evilhawk]

No cooling issues. I just want to ring out as much HP as I can from the engine. I pretty much nixed the electric cooling fan idea. It seems like too much work, but I do want to run an alternator eventually as I would like to add a stereo. As for now, I'll keep running the generator and maybe go with a clutch fan.

[RadioRoy]

Modern stereos only draw an amp or two, unless you build a huge "thump, thump" type of sound system.

[Torino68]

My 1963 Champ has a SB Chevy engine and an alternator. The original Voltage regulator is still wired in. I have a new GM alternator. Do I need to use the Original VR? We are trying to clean up and replace some poor wiring. Sig in Ocala.

[bensherb]

My 1963 Champ has a SB Chevy engine and an alternator. The original Voltage regulator is still wired in. I have a new GM alternator. Do I need to use the Original VR? We are trying to clean up and replace some poor wiring. Sig in Ocala.

No.

If you don't have an "idiot light" use a 1975 -85 GM "one wire" alternator, and just run a # 10 or better yet #8 wire from the "BATT" stud to the positive side of the battery.

If you have an "idiot light", get a standard three wire alternator, AND the stock type plug for the two small wires. Run the same #8 wire as for the one wire unit. Run the large wire from the stock plug to the "BATT" stud on the alternator. Run the small wire to your "idiot light"; the other side of the idiot light should go to power +. The alternator will not charge, under 1500-2000 rpm if this "idiot light" wire is not connected or if the bulb is burned out.

Also, you do not need to worry about the alternator being rated for higher amperage than the pitiful 35 amp Stude unit. It will only produce enough power to supply the needed load. If the load is small thats all it will produce regardless of it's maximum capability. That's what the regulator does, whether seperate or built into the alternator.