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installing new trunnions (upper A arm)

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  • Front Axle / Front Suspension: installing new trunnions (upper A arm)

    Can anyone give me some guidance on installing new trunnion pins and bushings in the upper A-arm (62 Hawk). I have the spreader tool and am ready to go...but I noticed that the two A-arms have a different dimension when measuring across the inside of the "ears" where the bushing screws one side it measures 2.72" and 2.560" on the other. That's a difference of .160" (!) That being the case, it doesn't make sense to me that the recommended .015 spread would accomplish anything since they are already out of whack by more than 10 times the recommended gap. I do have some spare A-arms that measure 2.875" and 2.750" Would it be a good idea to heat/bend the larger gap to match the smaller? Or the other way around? Or use one of the spare A-arms that is closer to the larger one? I have no idea what the gap is on a "virgin" A-arm. Also, is it a good/bad idea to use red Lok-tite on the bushings? Or to put a few small welds to help hold it in place? Any thoughts or suggestions would be most appreciated. thanks.. Lance

  • #2
    No need to use Lock-Tight or to weld the bushings in place. The cap screws are designed to hold them in place and do a great job, as long as they are kept tight. You may wanna recheck the caps crews after the first 100 miles, then 500 then 1000. By then, they will have pretty much settled in, but still check them every time you do an oil change. Ditto for then mount bolts; the upper ones are particularly bad about working themselves loose.

    As for the outer pins, the spreader is designed to insure the inside and outside threads on the caps do not bind. Spread the end as needed, in order for the capscrews to screw in all the way and bottom easily. If binding occurs, you will never get grease to go past the threads, as you are supposed to do with a grease gun, when you lube it later. Even if no binding, the first few thousand miles and grease jobs, it will still require extra patience to get the grease past. Test it with a grease gun before buttoning everything else back up.

    With the king pins out, now is a good time to inspect them, and the bushings & bearings. Also a good time to replace the lower cork gasket with a rubber o'ring, if someone else has not already done so. Also while apart, clean and inspect the upper thrust bearing. *Check king pin end play before you disassemble it, and use spacers accordingly, if needed, under the thrust bearing. Definitely need a Shop Manual on hand.