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Rear brake line replacement

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  • Clem64
    replied
    I have so far been able to do my brake line projects using premade sections of line and unions where needed. And yes, always test your work after completion by pumping the brakes up firm several times,inspect, and reinspect again after 24 hours or so.

    Dean




    CLEM DESEE MISTY

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  • HammondA100
    replied
    I've been doing my own flares but the quality of the tool makes all the difference but if you are unsure I would recommend at least trying and make sure you upgrade to a dual master cyl. that way should there be a problem you still have stopping power!! A good flare tool also makes quality fuel lines avoiding the problems from running hose all along the route.

    Wow, someone in this town has something other than a Chevy!!

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  • 62SY4
    replied
    Just as a reminder to everyone those who flare their own lines or buy premade sections always check for leaks before road testing. I put brake lines on my dad's chebbie truck a few years ago and made a short line to get over the frame rail and then proceeded to bleed the brakes. The next morning upon pulling out of the garage I had the brakes fail. Apparently when I flared the one end there was a defect in the tubing which caused the tube to fracture right where the bell meets the tube. My father had a similar incident with a customers car with a premade section. Luckily both times us and the vehicles were unharmed.

    Jon Krimm
    1962 Lark Sedan
    1961 Champ

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  • valleyguy
    replied
    I want to thank all members for your input and help. The job
    is finished. I ended up using three pieces and two unions to get the line from the master cylinder to the rear. Also added a new rubber line and two new hard lines from the junction on the rear diff to both rear wheels. Of the five (hard-line) pieces, I had to cut two for a better fit. A mechanic did new flares on both for $10. I used a Eastwood bender that I have had for awhile to form the bends. Not counting the new rubber line, I have right around $50 in the project.
    Thanks,
    Joe D.



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  • WCP
    replied
    Bob, another important thing we forgot to mention, is to remember to put the flare nut on the line before flaring. Made that mistake on occasion!

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  • WCP
    replied
    Tom, that's not good. My tool actually pinches the line somewhat and leaves marks on the tubing. Going from memory, the set was made by New Britain or something like that. If you're interested I can dig it out tomorrow and post the info.

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  • sweetolbob
    replied
    Thanks WCP

    I'd completely forgot to mention the reaming and beveling. They may be the most important variables.

    Bob

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  • tbredehoft
    replied
    I made six tries with my $54 double flaring tool on brake line. by the 5th, the tool would no longer keep the tube from sliding, even when clamped in a vise. A waste of money.

    I have found by searching that some vendors sell brake line in increments of 10 inches, others in 12 inch variations. It doesn't always work, though, I've got a 4 inch diameter loop in one of my lines.

    [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
    Tom Bredehoft
    '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
    '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
    (Under Construction 571 hrs.)
    '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
    All Indiana built cars

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  • WCP
    replied
    I have a US made flaring set but I've seen better ones. However, "practise makes perfect". Adding to the comments of Bob and others, reaming out the tubing properly after the cut is important, followed by careful bevelling of the cut edge. Then lube the die for the 1st upset, then lude the tool point for the double flare foldover. My tool usually results in a slightly oval double flare, so rotate the tubing 90 degrees and press the flare to round. With a little practice on some spare tubing, you should be able to accomplish good flares when needed.

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  • jackb
    replied
    .........I'd guess, like me, most of us perform all or most of the work on our cars. Since its me underneath, I don't mind seeing my unions at all.....lol

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  • sweetolbob
    replied
    Valleyguy

    You hit the answer to double flaring steel tubing.

    After much frustration years ago, I purchased a very good flaring tool. Very high success rate if you remember to be careful about the exact height of the tubing in the tool and to lubricate the tubing during forming.

    I've done four cars without a failure. I like the long runs of tubing without a joint but will use them if necessary.

    The problem with the cheap tools is they let the tubing slip which equals disaster.

    Bob

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  • valleyguy
    replied
    Dick, the last section needs to be about 24" and the closest
    one at NAPA is 30"; I should be able to make it work;
    however the mechanic at a local shop did a double flair on one
    of my short pieces that goes to the rear brake, for $5, and
    it was perfect. He has a good tool and has been doing them
    for years. So thats an option and it would look better.

    You're right, double flairs are hard to do correctly.
    I tried one myself and I messed up two pieces. Won't
    try that again unless someone comes up with a foolproof tool..
    (that I can afford).
    Joe D.

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  • Dick Steinkamp
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by valleyguy
    Now all I need is one more piece
    to finish the job;(thats tomorrow) I'll need to cut a piece of
    line for this;
    Joe,
    I know others have had success with the double flare needed on a brake line...but I haven't. I've tried to do several and generally have them leak. I'm fairly certain you can find a length of made up line that will be real close to what you need and not have to worry about flaring a cut line.

    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA

    [IMG][/IMG]

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  • valleyguy
    replied
    Thanks again. I did not order the kit.. I took Tom B's advice
    and am installing in three pieces, using unions. So far, I used a 12 inch piece to go from the MC outlet up, across the MC and down again using a bender; Put a union there and installed a 60" piece
    which runs along the frame rail and ends about where the frame starts
    to turn upward at the rear. Now all I need is one more piece
    to finish the job;(thats tomorrow) I'll need to cut a piece of
    line for this; So far it's nice and neat
    and a heck of a lot easier than trying to do it all in one
    piece. Funny how everything like this makes sense but frustrating
    that it didn't occur to me in the beginning. ARGGG..

    Joe D.

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  • T-CAB
    replied
    valleyguy:

    I bought one of those "Kits" last year for my 1964 Daytona. Were useless!. Go to you local Napa store, buy a double flaring kit, some pipe and make your own. It's just that easy!!

    T-cab

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