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Rear brake line replacement

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  • Rear brake line replacement

    How in the world do you manage to replace the rear brake line on a 58 Hawk - given that it has so many bends and twists, especially at the front where it has a severe bend right out of the master cylinder, then snakes up over and across the master cyliner, between it and the floor plan, then along the frame rail and etc. Very tight fit along the entire length. and has multiple bends,
    Has anytone else done this? Can the brake line be re-routed to
    make it easier to install? I had a bear of a time just getting the old line out... Any advice appreciated.

  • #2
    Do some critical measuring, buy three sections, totaling the entire length, make one at a time, its not too hard. Use all new fittings, cost is minimal compared to brake failure.

    [Edit] remember, the original line was put in before the body was put on.

    Tom Bredehoft
    '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
    '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
    (Under Construction 571 hrs.)
    '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
    All Indiana built cars


    • #3
      I had to do that on the Avanti, though interestingly enough it was in
      a few pieces, and had a union already.


      '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
      '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
      Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
      I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them


      • #4
        I replaced the lines in a 68 Cutlass convertible last summer. If you think the lines are tough to replace on a Studebaker, these ones were much worse. I had to really search for some of the line sizes and fittings, get the old ones off (no room and tough to do the under the motor one) and then squeeze in the new lines. Took me a long time to do properly.



        • #5
          Try or They have kits that are pre-bent and from what I've heard, they fit very well.

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          • #6
            thanks for ur tips; I guess reinstalling in pieces is the
            only way to go; the front-most piece off the MC will be the
            toughest; I was able to install one of the front brake hard
            lines last year using a tube bender and some patience. I
            tried to do the double flair thing but ended up going to a
            local mechanic to get it done right. Thankfully the new
            lines are not expensive, good thing, I have a feeling I will
            be going through a few feet before I get this rear line done.
            I'll try those vendors you suggested to see what they have.
            Joe D.


            • #7
              Keep in mind, these were put on before the body
              so it's not at all easy unless it's a body off
              job. Like has been said, use sections, and keep
              exhaust in mind. It was routed the way it was for
              a reason. Good luck.

              Tex E. Grier


              • #8

                I bought one of those "Kits" last year for my 1964 Daytona. Were useless!. Go to you local Napa store, buy a double flaring kit, some pipe and make your own. It's just that easy!!



                • #9
                  Thanks again. I did not order the kit.. I took Tom B's advice
                  and am installing in three pieces, using unions. So far, I used a 12 inch piece to go from the MC outlet up, across the MC and down again using a bender; Put a union there and installed a 60" piece
                  which runs along the frame rail and ends about where the frame starts
                  to turn upward at the rear. Now all I need is one more piece
                  to finish the job;(thats tomorrow) I'll need to cut a piece of
                  line for this; So far it's nice and neat
                  and a heck of a lot easier than trying to do it all in one
                  piece. Funny how everything like this makes sense but frustrating
                  that it didn't occur to me in the beginning. ARGGG..

                  Joe D.


                  • #10
                    quote:Originally posted by valleyguy
                    Now all I need is one more piece
                    to finish the job;(thats tomorrow) I'll need to cut a piece of
                    line for this;
                    I know others have had success with the double flare needed on a brake line...but I haven't. I've tried to do several and generally have them leak. I'm fairly certain you can find a length of made up line that will be real close to what you need and not have to worry about flaring a cut line.

                    Dick Steinkamp
                    Bellingham, WA


                    Dick Steinkamp
                    Bellingham, WA


                    • #11
                      Dick, the last section needs to be about 24" and the closest
                      one at NAPA is 30"; I should be able to make it work;
                      however the mechanic at a local shop did a double flair on one
                      of my short pieces that goes to the rear brake, for $5, and
                      it was perfect. He has a good tool and has been doing them
                      for years. So thats an option and it would look better.

                      You're right, double flairs are hard to do correctly.
                      I tried one myself and I messed up two pieces. Won't
                      try that again unless someone comes up with a foolproof tool..
                      (that I can afford).
                      Joe D.


                      • #12

                        You hit the answer to double flaring steel tubing.

                        After much frustration years ago, I purchased a very good flaring tool. Very high success rate if you remember to be careful about the exact height of the tubing in the tool and to lubricate the tubing during forming.

                        I've done four cars without a failure. I like the long runs of tubing without a joint but will use them if necessary.

                        The problem with the cheap tools is they let the tubing slip which equals disaster.



                        • #13
                          .........I'd guess, like me, most of us perform all or most of the work on our cars. Since its me underneath, I don't mind seeing my unions at


                          • #14
                            I have a US made flaring set but I've seen better ones. However, "practise makes perfect". Adding to the comments of Bob and others, reaming out the tubing properly after the cut is important, followed by careful bevelling of the cut edge. Then lube the die for the 1st upset, then lude the tool point for the double flare foldover. My tool usually results in a slightly oval double flare, so rotate the tubing 90 degrees and press the flare to round. With a little practice on some spare tubing, you should be able to accomplish good flares when needed.


                            • #15
                              I made six tries with my $54 double flaring tool on brake line. by the 5th, the tool would no longer keep the tube from sliding, even when clamped in a vise. A waste of money.

                              I have found by searching that some vendors sell brake line in increments of 10 inches, others in 12 inch variations. It doesn't always work, though, I've got a 4 inch diameter loop in one of my lines.

                              Tom Bredehoft
                              '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
                              '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
                              (Under Construction 571 hrs.)
                              '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
                              All Indiana built cars