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what to do with a freeze plug that is weeping

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  • #31
    Originally posted by jg61hawk View Post
    https://www.autozone.com/external-en...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6..._with_promotio n&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqqbakPjt8QIVTPvICh3vfg9EEAQYASABEgL8xPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&
    i had bought the brass ones from Studebaker International, but if I were to destroy them i would have gone with the the rubber type, if the one i put too far in, blows, i am trying the rubber one, only 3.99 at O'reilly's

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    • #32
      Their is another alternative i have used in situations like this. a 3 piece copper plug that bolts in. once in place you tighten the center bolt to tighten the plug. have had good luck with them over the years.only problem is you will need a thin headed wrench to hold the body of the plug as you cinch it down. think their is one left out in shop, will find it and post brand and PN after sun comes up. Luck Doofis

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      • #33
        You do know you can just unscrew the dipstick tube and remove it, right? First pull the blade out, then slip the upper half of the tube out, then unscrew and remove the bottom half of the tube. Put a 3/8" hex head bolt in the dipstick tube hole to keep debris out while you are working, then try again with another freeze plug, for the one you tapped in too far.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
          You do know you can just unscrew the dipstick tube and remove it, right? First pull the blade out, then slip the upper half of the tube out, then unscrew and remove the bottom half of the tube. Put a 3/8" hex head bolt in the dipstick tube hole to keep debris out while you are working, then try again with another freeze plug, for the one you tapped in too far.
          i took the dip stick out and tried to unscrew the bottom with a 5/8? open wrench it won't turn bc the oil filter and the exhaust pipe got in the way...


          so Joe, you say the tube is 2 parts, i have to look at it closer, i thought i see one tube, does the tube on the bottom turn with the nut? idk how it looks, i think there is enough meat to hold the one i pounded in too deep, my first freeze plug job, the first went in just right, i second i keep beating with a long piece of wood, so i could not see it , and glad i looked when i did

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          • #35
            mw2013, yes, the tube is in two pieces, upper and lower. The upper half has an 'ear' on it, that a deadbolt goes through, and locks it in place. Remove that deadbolt first, and then you can probably work the upper half back and forth enough for it to disconnect from the lower half. Then loosen the nut on the bottom, which screws the base of the tube into the oil pan. If you look at your pic, you can easily see where the two halves come together, at the silver/black color line. The top half slips into the bottom half, like a sheath.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
              mw2013, yes, the tube is in two pieces, upper and lower. The upper half has an 'ear' on it, that a deadbolt goes through, and locks it in place. Remove that deadbolt first, and then you can probably work the upper half back and forth enough for it to disconnect from the lower half. Then loosen the nut on the bottom, which screws the base of the tube into the oil pan. If you look at your pic, you can easily see where the two halves come together, at the silver/black color line. The top half slips into the bottom half, like a sheath.
              thanks, it was in the way, but really not that bad, but it's good to learn about the dip stick tube, every little bit counts .... the freeze plug going in too far is just a rookie hack job that i am, i am going to leave it till she blows. now for the dana 27 leak

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              • #37
                I used a rubber plug on a 37 chevy about 50 years ago on the fp behind the water pump. It worked. It looks like replacing the metal ones without removing the engine is a tough job.
                Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

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                • #38
                  My father used to tell a story about replacing a bad soft plug with a silver dollar (back when they were worth a dollar). Not sure if they modified the OD, but they put a little dome in it and tapped it into the hole. The joke was that no matter how bad the car got, it would always be worth a dollar.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by JoeHall View Post

                    Be very careful in tightening that drain plug. It is a pipe thread and, if overly tightened, will crack the block. (Don't ask how I know. LOL) I'd replace it with a brass one, and coat the new plug's threads with your favorite sealant, i.e. Permatex 2. Be sure the brass plug has a square head, as the current one has, or hex head. Avoid using one with a female hex head, designed for an Allen wrench. Since the freeze plug is one of the easy ones to access, I'd replace it too, with a brass one. Be sure the new one is deep dish style, as the one currently installed is, and use your favorite sealant around the OD and ID of the block. As mentioned, it's also a good time to check cleanliness of the block. If it was, indeed hot tanked, baked, vibrated or otherwise cleaned, it should be pretty clean already. But be surprised at nothing. Before installing a new freeze plug, you might wanna use sandpaper to clean the ID of the hole in the block, but be careful not to remove actual metal, lest the new plug now seal properly.
                    can i ask you what tool can be used to unscrew the drain plug, i can't get the cresent wrench to turn in there, is it a 1/8 " npt, can i get some kind of socket to fit
                    the square head?


                    HOW MANY DRAIN PLUGS ARE THERE IN THE 289? FULL FLOW?

                    the black lark needs help

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                    Last edited by mw2013; 07-26-2021, 07:36 PM.

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                    • #40
                      Expand-Tite is the brand,02482 is the PN for 1 1/2 or 38 mm bolt in copper plug. Luck Doofus

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                      • #41
                        An 8 point socket is made for square headed bolts.

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                        • #42
                          thank you,I got a lot to learn

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by doofus View Post
                            Expand-Tite is the brand,02482 is the PN for 1 1/2 or 38 mm bolt in copper plug. Luck Doofus
                            thanks never knew this stuff exists, what is the advantage of this configuration?ease of installation? access to hard to reach applications? better seal?
                            or
                            in my case, less chance of screwing up the job and having to redo it?

                            https://www.stockwiseauto.com/dorman...expansion-plug

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                            • #44
                              In my case i got tired of hitting my hand trying to set the plugs in. it is a long and sometimes steep learning curve. Luck Doofus

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by doofus View Post
                                In my case i got tired of hitting my hand trying to set the plugs in. it is a long and sometimes steep learning curve. Luck Doofus
                                yes, i did hammer my hands , they hurt afterward,

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