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  • Electrical: starter solenoid wiring

    Can someone give me the correct wiring for a 57 silver hawk starter solenoid with 289 V8? Dose the positive cable from battery and a red wire go to the I or the S solenoid side? There are two wires one a red cap the other a black cap. Which one goes to I and then the S solenoid poles? No power to starter but if I jump from the hot battery cable post to the S post the starter engages. If the wire connections are correct then I am thinking the solenoid is bad.
    Bill

  • #2
    According to the shop manual for MY 1956, the white wire w/red stripe goes to the S terminal, and the green wire w/black stripe goes the I terminal.

    Obviously you have different colors in your hands but I suspect that your red wire should be going to the S terminal. The other end of that wire goes to the key switch.

    The I wire goes to the positive coil terminal.

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    • #3
      The "I" wire will go to the dist side of the resistor. (or coil) The other one will be the "S" wire which will go to the "S" terminal of your ign switch.

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      • #4
        FWII there are two schematics in the manual that show the I terminal connected to the positive coil terminal.

        I don't think it matters if you connect it to the resistor as long as you connect it to the distributor side of the resistor. This connection allows 12volts to go to the coil on cold startups.

        ​​​​​​I was trying to upload up images of the schematics but I am running into technical issues .

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        • #5
          You state there are two wires...there are three wires plus the battery cables. Two push on wires and one other wire goes on the "I" side with the positive battery cable. Bills here is a photo of mine from a 1961 Hawk. The "I" has the red wire and the positive battery cable on the large lug. The "S" side has the cable running down to the starter on the large lug. Additionally the "I" side has a green push on wire wire which I also noted a green wire (and a pink wire) on the +Positive side of my coil. The "S" side has a yellow push on wire.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by jg61hawk; 01-13-2021, 12:00 PM.

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          • #6
            Thanks for the solenoid wiring help. Looks like I have the wires correct so I'm in need of a solenoid. I also have issue with the coil not firing. With ignition on both - and + are reading hot. I get an OHM reading of 2.1 when putting black meter wire on either the coil + or - and the red in the coil output. The car has sat now about 30 yrs and working on getting the motor started.

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            • #7
              A Ha! Success. For your future reference..

              Click image for larger version

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              • #8
                With the solenoid wired correctly I am now not getting spark from the coil. I checked the resistance of the coil wire and it is good. I bought and installed a new coil and still no spark. To be certain it is wired correctly a resister wire and the wire to the distributer are on the + coil pole and then there are two wires coupled together into one lead and that lead is on the - coil pole. With ignition on both coil poles show power. I have a 67 Riv and checking that coil it is the opposite of the hawk in that the wire from the coil to the distributer is on the - pole so now I question if the hawk coil is wired incorrectly??? Any suggestions on why the old and now the new coil is not generating spark?
                Bill D

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                • #9
                  Perhaps it's the point?

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                  • #10
                    The Coil IS wired wrong, the Black Wire from the Coil ( - ) as shown in the Diagram IS the Ground (-) to the Dist. Points.

                    That would be why the Buick will run and the Stude. does Not.
                    StudeRich
                    Second Generation Stude Driver,
                    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                    • #11
                      Again thanks for the feedback. I rewired the new coil, wire to distributer on - pole and the two wires from starter and power to + and still no coil output. With Stude ignition on my test light lights touching either the + and - coil poles. I tested the coil wire on my Riviera and it started. The only test left is to put the Stude coil on the Riviera and see if it starts. I suspect the Riv will start. Before I do that anything else I can check that may be causing the coil not to fire?

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                      • #12
                        I'd think 'no spark' is more likely to be points and/or condenser.
                        Another thing about wearing a mask......I don't have to shave before I leave the house!

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by bills57hawk View Post
                          Again thanks for the feedback. I rewired the new coil, wire to distributer on - pole and the two wires from starter and power to + and still no coil output. With Stude ignition on my test light lights touching either the + and - coil poles. I tested the coil wire on my Riviera and it started. The only test left is to put the Stude coil on the Riviera and see if it starts. I suspect the Riv will start. Before I do that anything else I can check that may be causing the coil not to fire?
                          When you say no Coil output, did you crank the Engine and check the High Amps/Voltage Main Coil Secondary lead Wire for Fire?
                          All of these non-spinning tests do nothing, the Coil does not Fire until the Points close while turning the Engine Ignition ON. Does it Crank?
                          StudeRich
                          Second Generation Stude Driver,
                          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                          • #14
                            With the ignition on and the engine turning over there is no spark from the coil plug wire wire that goes to the center of the distributer. I did not check the points and based on your reply if they are not closing while turning the motor over then that is likely the problem. I will inspect and confirm the points are closing during engine crank.
                            Bill D

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                            • #15
                              You mentioned earlier that the car was sitting for 30 years. You may just want to replace the points and condenser (cap and rotor too) if you have access to a part source. Given the age those parts, they're all suspect in my mind.

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