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What is wrong with this tire with rubber chunking off?
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I've had brand new tires, that had never been on the ground (spare), that the tread literally fell off of in 1" squares after about 7 years. Your missing chunks do not look like a tire coming apart from age to me.
It looks like the hire hit something that cut chunks out of it. Looks just like when a tire hits the edge of the fender where it folds into the well. I've had them hit the fender well inside when turning and the lip of the frame too, or sometimes there's a bolt head it'll hit and also tear out chunks. Remember too, the tire moves up and down in the well, particularly when turning, so what you think won't hit still might.sigpic
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This is an interesting article on Tire Age:
https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintena...our-tires.html
I ride Motorcycles and we limit tire age to 2-3 years max.
I'd replace them before you hurt your car or somebody.Rhys Arthur
49 2R5
66 Cruiser
66 Commander
84 Avanti
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Since the fairly narrow P205X75R15's are being Spread TOO wide from the 7 Inch Wheels, the sidewalls are misshapened and MAY be helping any aging or cracking going on.
That and the Fact that the car has not had a correct professional Alignment yet, add to that, the stance is too wide due to extreme wheel offset.
I THOUGHT you bought them New with the New Wheels, No?
The Alpha Numeric Code right after "DOT" is your Tire Date of Mfg. usually on the Back side.Last edited by StudeRich; 01-11-2021, 01:32 PM.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
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Originally posted by StudeRich View PostSince the fairly narrow P205X75R15's are being Spread TOO wide from the 7 Inch Wheels, the sidewalls are misshapened and MAY be helping any aging or cracking going on.
That and the Fact that the car has not had a correct professional Alignment yet, add to that, the stance is too wide due to extreme wheel offset.
I THOUGHT you bought them New with the New Wheels, No?
The Alpha Numeric Code right after "DOT" is your Tire Date of Mfg. usually on the Back side.
they are rear tires and i don't think the alignment matters much back there, you'd be happy to know, i got the car steering perfect, with on center tendencies at all speeds, no more locked wanting to stay in a turn and hard to bring it back to center; at any speed, great feedback, who says Ross boxes are inferior to saginaw?
my feeling is to align is to save the tires, since they are so old, and the handling is so good now,( it used to be all in the shoulders to drive , now it is all in the wrist), i'll let the tires show signs of bad alignment wear to see if i nailed it of coure the camber and caster is still a total mystery number to me at this point but is it a 180 from what is was
no the tires looked good,( but they are not and they are hella old) without me checking the dates, i did check charts and while 7" rims are on the wider side, it is within spec, the stock offset is 3.5 inches, and now they are 3.75, no real change
they say ideal tire with, i think 6.5 may be best
and you forgot i am pushing it in the corners and with the new springs up front and the torch helper leaf in the back the 3/4 ' front sway bar don't lean at all
i have relocated the battery in the back for better weight distribution
https://www.tyresizecalculator.com/c...rim-size-chart
i think it is helping cracking it by because it's new home so different that the 4.5 inch rims they were in, you may be on to something Rich
in no way was the tires appropriate for the stock rims, less appropriate than with the 7" i believe, they were pulled inward way too much
the chart don't even mention a 4.5" rim and 5" take a 165, so at least this way i am closer to ideal that the period white walls out, chrome hub caps, correct lookLast edited by mw2013; 01-11-2021, 02:19 PM.
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Look at the sidewall in your post #1. It has plenty of hairline cracks from stress or oxidation/applied stress. From all of us reading your posts, it would appear you drive the you-know-what out of your Lark. Maybe the duty these tires are seeing is too much, or they were underinflated and allowed to sit bulged?
Either way, if these are 10 years old then get rid of them. And NEVER use a trailer tire to apply torque and cornering to. They're built more cheaply and are generally lighter in plies, etc.
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That Tyre Chart is not correct at all! It may be from Europe, but mm's are mm's.
Their, whoever THEY are, Wheel requirements are WAY off.
Maybe they are for English Track Racing Cars, not U.S. Passenger Cars.
So our Stock 4 1/2 Inch Wheels get what... a P135 or P145 X75R15 that probably does not exist!
Wh. >>Min >>Preferred >>Max TireUS Cars, right on the Door Sticker from the Mfg. stated that a 5.5 Inch Wide Wheel 1972 Chrysler Cordoba requires a Standard Tire Size of P215X75R15, or a P225X70R15 Tire.5,0 155 165 or 175 185 5,5 165 175 or 185 195 6,0 175 185 or 195 205 StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
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yOriginally posted by NCDave51 View PostLook at the sidewall in your post #1. It has plenty of hairline cracks from stress or oxidation/applied stress. From all of us reading your posts, it would appear you drive the you-know-what out of your Lark. Maybe the duty these tires are seeing is too much, or they were underinflated and allowed to sit bulged?
Either way, if these are 10 years old then get rid of them. And NEVER use a trailer tire to apply torque and cornering to. They're built more cheaply and are generally lighter in plies, etc.
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Originally posted by StudeRich View PostThat Tyre Chart is not correct at all! It may be from Europe, but mm's are mm's.
Their, whoever THEY are, Wheel requirements are WAY off.
Maybe they are for English Track Racing Cars, not U.S. Passenger Cars.
So our Stock 4 1/2 Inch Wheels get what... a P135 or P145 X75R15 that probably does not exist!
Wh. >>Min >>Preferred >>Max TireUS Cars, right on the Door Sticker from the Mfg. stated that a 5.5 Inch Wide Wheel 1972 Chrysler Cordoba requires a Standard Tire Size of P215X75R15, or a P225X70R15 Tire.5,0 155 165 or 175 185 5,5 165 175 or 185 195 6,0 175 185 or 195 205
here's another i don't limit myself to one source, 7 is acceptable
https://www.tyresizecalculator.com/t...ize-calculator
i see what you are saying, i like my 7's they should help with the handling
205mm is 8 inches, my take is as long at the thread with is close to the rim width i am good, i can't go to 215's they will hit the rear fenders, they already do, albeit very very slight and not damaging, just small kisses
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Your tires do not “look good”. They have chunks of tread coming off and the sidewall is cracking and coming apart.
From what I’ve gathered from your posts... You’ve been driving 90 miles an hour, in a 60 year old Studebaker, with an alignment that you did without any tools, on 20 year old trailer tires that are way too small for your oversize wheels. And you are in a VERY populated urban area.
Am I understanding all of that correctly?
You’re going to kill yourself, or someone else that happens to be in your line of fire.Last edited by mbstude; 01-11-2021, 05:26 PM.
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Originally posted by mw2013 View Post
....my feeling is to save the tires, since they are so old... i'll let the tires show signs of bad alignment wear to see if i nailed it...
You are clearly stating that you’re planning to drive your 60 year old Studebaker on 20 year old TRAILER TIRES. And you’ve already admitted to doing so at illegal speeds.
If your insurance company sees your comments here, or worse, the lawyer suing you on behalf of the innocent driver you killed after your tire came apart and you crashed... It’s not going to be a fun time for you.
Do not drive your car another 10 feet until you replace the tires, have a professional alignment shop set the front end, and learn to be a responsible car owner.Last edited by mbstude; 01-11-2021, 05:32 PM.
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Originally posted by Al from Eatonville View PostAs stated above, NEVER use trailer tires on an automobile. Not even new ones. Very unsafe. By the way, nice car.
thanks for the complement , Al
did a lot of work on the car, brakes, suspension, electrical, leaks, cooling system, heater, loose chassis , steering and suspension fasteners all for safety's sake, yeah i have been working out the kinks since i got it,all with the help of all the fine Studebaker mechanics on this here forum, thanks everyone!
when i first got it it was dangerous to drive,LOOSE WHEEL BEARINGS (discovered and fixed) and wouldn't go 55 mph with scaring me to death, now it's dialed in, running great, handling fantastic, new tires for sure are on the list
again thanks everyone for all your comments and the helpLast edited by mw2013; 01-11-2021, 06:50 PM.
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