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Cage Nuts - Bolting Seat Track to Floor - 1956 Golden Hawk

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  • Body / Glass: Cage Nuts - Bolting Seat Track to Floor - 1956 Golden Hawk


    I have a 1956 Golden Hawk.

    The front seat track has four posts that are bolted to the floor using 2 bolts per post. I believe the track is part number 1314031, illustration 2327-41 found on Plate 23-32 of the 1953 - 58 Studebaker Packard Body Parts Manual.

    The bolts are part number 1950x5, which have a chamfered point (I had never seen bolts like that) and are bolted into "hidden" cage nuts. I am missing 3 of the 8 cage nuts. Fortunately, I have 2 on one side and 3 on the other, but this is an obvious safety concern.

    Assuming I can find the cage nuts, the question then becomes how to get access from beneath the car. (Would this in the "hog trough"?).

    One way would be to cut through the bottom, weld cage nuts in place, and then weld the bottom sections back together.

    A friend suggested holes using a hole saw bit on a drill. He said to pick a hole size that you could then match perfectly to a rubber plug to seal the hole, so you could have access later on if needed.

    Anybody else had to replace these cage nuts, or have suggestions?

    Anybody know the part number for the cage nuts?

    Thanks,
    Bill

  • #2
    I like your friend's suggestion. Access to the inside of the hog troughs would be good for applying rustproofing, too. It would allow you to secure the seat with a nut and washer, if you wanted too. McMaster Carr has cage nuts. look them up online.

    JT

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    • #3
      Since the Cage nuts are non-removable, welded Parts of the Floor Pan I don't believe they were sold separately.

      A Hardware/Fastener Warehouse like Aveco or Dealer Store like the one we have up here "Fastenal" would sell something similar.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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      • #4
        FYI, canting the hole saw before it breaks through leaves the center still attached. You can then pry it down for access, and afterward push the center plug back in place. A smear of tar or other sealant will hide your “cut” plug. You should be able to reuse this access a couple of times before the tab breaks off.

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        • #5
          All, thank you for your suggestions and replies. Appreciate it.

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          • #6
            Consider using a hole saw to cut out a round hole; then fab a matching round disk; weld a cage nut to it; then flush weld the disk into the new hole. And as others said: use the new hole to access the inside of the troughs for inspection and rustproofing before you weld back.

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            • #7
              There are a variety of sizes of plastic body plugs available. If you cut with a hole saw, procure the same size plug to seal the hole, and you can remove it any time you want to spray in any anti-oxidation product.
              "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

              Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
              Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
              '33 Rockne 10,
              '51 Commander Starlight,
              '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
              '56 Sky Hawk

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              • #8
                Where the cage nuts come though on the top side is it metal or fiberglass? If metal I would drill a hole the same size as the nut you plan to use. Then weld that nut to a piece of metal about a inch larger all the way around than the nut. Set the nut though your hole and weld the metal holding it to the floor metal. I see your post says 56 hawk so floor is metal my way will work just fine.

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