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thermostat from rock auto is too small and so is autozone 289 full flow swap to a 60V lark
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Here is a parts interchange list for Studebakers It has some thermostat info. Good Luck interchange.pdf (northstarstudebakers.com)
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Buying parts for a Studebaker (or any 50-year old car for that matter) from Rock Auto or Auto Zone is a crap shoot, where the odds of getting the right part are about 50-50. The aftermarket companies hired cretins to digitize their paper catalogs about 25 years ago, and have never been interested in correcting the thousands of mistakes those people embedded in the data.Skip Lackie
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Originally posted by Skip Lackie View PostBuying parts for a Studebaker (or any 50-year old car for that matter) from Rock Auto or Auto Zone is a crap shoot, where the odds of getting the right part are about 50-50. The aftermarket companies hired cretins to digitize their paper catalogs about 25 years ago, and have never been interested in correcting the thousands of mistakes those people embedded in the data.
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Why not buy one from one of the Studebaker parts vendors who know what the correct parts are and know what they are talking about?
Is the two dollars you save from Rock Auto worth all the extra work, time, and frustration?
If no one buys from the Studebaker specialized vendors, they will eventually go out of business and than all we will have is Rock Auto and the like. And... everyone's frustration level will go up.RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible
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i've had plenty of success for decades with aforementioned distributors, and i am sure y'all have been there and done it,
i figured the stats is on top and easy to get to, and how hard can it be to get it right?, it's not a rear main seal, with 20 hours of labor, or a buried 12 hour heater core job, ( which i have bought from rock auto and held up ) that is my rationale.
a solution would be much appreciated,Last edited by mw2013; 12-11-2020, 03:00 PM.
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Originally posted by RadioRoy View PostWhy not buy one from one of the Studebaker parts vendors who know what the correct parts are and know what they are talking about?
Is the two dollars you save from Rock Auto worth all the extra work, time, and frustration?
If no one buys from the Studebaker specialized vendors, they will eventually go out of business and than all we will have is Rock Auto and the like. And... everyone's frustration level will go up.
and no worries when i comes to high dollar truly specific items, like front end rebuilt kits, leaf springs, etc that would be my go to
Last edited by mw2013; 12-11-2020, 03:06 PM.
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The Thermostat you bought Does fit Studebakers, but they have to be 1939 to 1960 "170" Sixes or all Cars 6 & 8's after 1960 with a 2 Bolt Thermostat Housing and Water Manifold.
So you can see how a "Keyboard Junky" Parts Application Conversion to Digital "Person" could not understand it, it's TOO Simple!
I think it was 50%, but no matter it is NOT like buying Parts for your ???????? Toyota or something still manufactured.
A very Good example is Brake Parts, I can Guaranty you that you will NOT get the correct Brake Shoes for the Front of a V8 Studebaker from just about ANY Parts Store, let alone those even worse On-Line Stores that Amazon sells.
I can see the reason easily, it's so simple, they do not know the difference between 6 Cyl. and V8 and from Drum and Disc Brake Car Brake Shoes, Wheel Cylinders, Brake Hoses, Master Cylinders etc.!
Yes Disc Brake, Brake Shoes, the Rear Drum Brake Shoes are different and Special for Disc Brake setups, DUH!Last edited by StudeRich; 12-11-2020, 02:51 PM.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
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let's start over....
heater not hot enough,, after disconnecting the cable and manually pulling up on the broken valve for "on all the time"
po said it was a 160 stat
i don't like 160's for any thing
i read 180 for studes
i like 195's
but going with 180 since stude max at that temp from factory
took it out and found out
it is broken and stuck open, i was right it was not getting hot enough
this is a WIN
i like working on my stude it's fun, frustration is part of every car repair/hobby, stude no difference
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original 60v meaning 259
swapped to a full flow 289, so i ordered a stat for 63 ....289
since it's no longer a 1960 ....259,
question, can a 259 water pump mount on a full flow 289?
why? because the stat housing has 4 bolts, when the "mgr" at autozone googled 55-60 we saw a 4 bolt housing and and a 2 bolt housing gasket, for later years
so if it has an early water pump, that may be the problem and in this case i think it will still trip up a Studebaker specific vendor, if i did not tell him/her the details about the swap and just ordered it on the website
this should be simple yet no on knows the answer, so you see, it ain't that easyLast edited by mw2013; 12-11-2020, 03:08 PM.
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Yes, the earlier 259 water pump and thermostat housing will fit the later block. Looks like you may have figured out the problem with the wrong parts. Also, I believe that the 180 degree T-stat will be more than adequate. Good Luck.
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The water pump isn't your problem, as the water pump fits all Studebaker V8's except for 56J with Packard engine. Your problem is the water manifold that is either early 4 bolt thermostat housing, or late 2 bolt thermosat housing (also different for trucks, Avantis and I think R-Series equipped super cars), and yes they use different thermostats. IIRC, the early thermostat is larger in diameter then the late. Incidentally, some do cross fit with President 8 cylinder and both Commander and Champion 6 cylinders. Also, I believe the water manifold will interchange and fit early to late and late to early V8 engine/heads. If there is a difference in the 51-52 232 cid manifold, then I'm sure someone here will point that out??? 224, 259 and 289 should interchange.
Don't expect most local flaps to know any of this information, and certainly not "Rock Auto", "Amazon", as 99.999999% of the time, it's not included on the computer screen. You have to find an old timer that knows how and is willing to take the time to find the old catalogs (if they still have any) and read through it to find the correct fitment and cross over information. And, depending on how old the "old catalog is, it might not be correct, either.
You need 533257 180 degree for 51-60 V8, and 1560843 180 degree for 61-66 V8. There are other numbers, but these are the two numbers all the rest have been superseded to. One is about $15 and the other is about $12. Then you have to contend with shipping (Flat Rate includes insurance enough to cover these items), and so does priority. Included also, tracking..............
What it really boils down to is finding and using the correct thermostat for the water manifold housing you have, or want to use, for what ever reason.
Bo
Last edited by Bo Markham; 12-11-2020, 03:29 PM.Bo
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Fully explained in Post #10, it's the Year of the WATER MANIFOLD that matters, Not the Engine and yes they interchange.
The basic external Shape/Size of all 232, 224, 259, 289 and 304 Blocks are the Same.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
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