Body / Glass: Proper fit of 64 Daytona new rocker panels, suggestions and opinions welcome

[fatboylust]

In preparation to replace the portion of the floor outboard of the existing inner rocker. I positioned the new (Classic Enterprises) rocker to evaluate the fit before cutting the floor. The bottom edge of the rocker is clamped to the existing inner rocker.

Note the resulting gap between the floor flange and the rocker. I am considering tightening radius of the rocker or cutting the lower rocker flange and bending a new flange.

The opinion of those who have installed these rocker on how to make the two welded edges align would be appreciated.

[r1lark]

David, I would try loosening your clamps on the bottom, and push the top of the rocker up against the edge of the floorpan. Then put some fender washers and nuts on the 3 studs at the back end, and a couple of temporary pop rivets thru the lower weatherstrip channel into the edge of the floor. The inner rocker pieces can be moved/bent quite easily to line up better with the bottom of the outer rocker.

[fatboylust]

Following r1lark's lead with some pushing and shoving I have the new rocker aligned with floor edge and the inner rocker edge. The forward end of the new rocker springs up but when the floor and forward end of the inner rocker are repaired I expect it will work out. I still have the other-side to use for comparison. The new rocker upper lip protrudes beyond the lower door edge when the door is closed unlike the original rock, which is flush with the door. I'll make detailed comparison of the original rocker profile and the new ones, perhaps I'll need to adjust the new floor repair to suit the new rockers.

[clarkwd]

I might test fit them, but I don't weld rockers in until I have the floors done and the doors and both front and rear fenders on and lined up. Whatever you do, be sure the floor is low enough to leave room for the kick plate under the door.
Bill

[fatboylust]

clarkwd
Yes this is the test fit of the rocker before the floor repair proceeds. Rockers will be last. Good info on the kick plate clearance, thanks.

[52 Ragtop]

Also, before welding, be sure the vehicle is suspended by the wheels! Otherwise, when you drop it down on the wheels, the body may move from where you want it. A jack stand under the rear axle and on the outer portion under the king pin in front. The gaps will change.

Jim

[Jessie J.]

Sharing a lesson that I learned the hard way when I repaired the similarly rusted away floor pan in my '62 Lark. The remnants of the old rotted rocker panels removed, I de-rusted and replaced all the rusted sections of the floor with new metal carefully fitted and hammer welded so as to replicate all of the original factory details. Finished it looked like factory new. Perfect.
That is until I attempted to close the doors. Horror! All of that carefully executed metal work had shrunk the bottom of the door openings by about 1/4 inch. Doors hit the quarter panels and would not even latch.
If only I had been smart enough, or someone had forewarned me, the FIRST thing that needed done was to check and to adjust the door fit (if needed), and weld in sturdy bracing to maintain the factory tolerances. Would have saved me a week of additional welding work and the expense of the hydraulic body ram set up that was required to repair my repair.

[Jeff T.]

Sharing a lesson that I learned the hard way when I repaired the similarly rusted away floor pan in my '62 Lark. The remnants of the old rotted rocker panels removed, I de-rusted and replaced all the rusted sections of the floor with new metal carefully fitted and hammer welded so as to replicate all of the original factory details. Finished it looked like factory new. Perfect.
That is until I attempted to close the doors. Horror! All of that carefully executed metal work had shrunk the bottom of the door openings by about 1/4 inch. Doors hit the quarter panels and would not even latch.
If only I had been smart enough, or someone had forewarned me, the FIRST thing that needed done was to check and to adjust the door fit (if needed), and weld in sturdy bracing to maintain the factory tolerances. Would have saved me a week of additional welding work and the expense of the hydraulic body ram set up that was required to repair my repair.

Yep. Been there, done that, working on it when I can. I did have My 62 Lark hardtop suspended ( for a couple years) by the wheels and braced right to left but not front to rear. My right door closes better than the left and the right door's fender gap is just too close. I have to clean out the garage so I can get back at it.

I also replaced the hinges, figured it couldn't hurt.

[Jeffry Cassel]

Daughter #2 wanted a 64-67 candy apple red Mustang for college graduation gift. It turned out to be the biggest restoration ever on a convertible that came out of a cow pasture. I was careful but when I'd finally welded in the last replacement part it needed to be bent into the correct shape by a car straightener in Walnut Grove. I put new rocker panels on my 57 Clipper recently (from CE) I did have to do some adjusting where it did not fit around the "B" pillar. The gap at the bottom of the door is still a 1/16th " or so too much but I can live with it. I attached them with rivets and screws 'cause I didn't want a lot of sparks flying around and it will never be driven much. I have 2 3" cut off saws from Harbor Freight (2 because I got them for a project and figured if I got 1 , it would self destruct within the first 20 min of use. ) They both still work!!! Ideal for making small cuts to fit rockers.