Body / Glass: Hood - type with Hinge Torsion Rods (twin) - Cruiser 1965 V-8 4 Door Sedan

[Hajo]

Hello,
once again I am looking for help, since the workshop manual is not very clear.
Also, I did not disassemble the hood myself.

I am re-assembling the Cruiser at present.

Unfortunately I got stuck on the Engine Hood with Hinge Torsion rods.
These are TWIN type.
I do not know how the bent torsion rod ends ends have to be positioned inside the left and right side gaps on the hood,
and how the torsion rods have to be fastended to the body.

Does anybody by chance have this same model, where you could send me photos of the fastening ends of both torsion rods?

My eMail address: henckert(at)gmail.com

Would highly appreciate if somebody would help me.

Many thanks!

[64V19816]

Images sent. This is a job that really takes two people. It’s Not fun.

[Hajo]

Images sent. This is a job that really takes two people. It’s Not fun.

Many many thanks for the express response. Great!

[Hajo]

Now another request/ questions:

We had to discard all the body supports that were totally corroded up and partially non-identifiable.
The frame itself was still outstanding, we only had to replace the covering strips over the U-shaped frame.

My problem is now:
I have obtained a set of Body Supports from Classic Enterprises.
I suppose they are fine, since all floor plates, trunk floor and rocker panels suited perfect and were correct to the last millimetre.
I do not have details on the correct arrangement of the body supports and how they are attached to the frame.
Also, the most rear support: Is it welded to the rocker panel, or how is it attached ?

Does anybody have photos from below detailing the arrangement of the body supports?

Would really appreciate if somebody could assist me.

Thank you!

[showbizkid]

64V19816 - how about posting the photos here? Without them, the thread is not much use to anyone else.

[Ross]

Here are some views of bodymounts for your second question. They are insulated from the frame by rubber pads (actually pieces of old tires) about 8-9 mm thick. Your car will have inner rocker panels which are installed after these floor braces.

[doofus]

Hajo, at the rocker panel to out rigger junction feel at the bottom for a couple of spot welds.they will need to be cut with a spot weld cutter. once you grind all the old weld divot off rust treat the end of the out rigger, now fit the rocker. doing this on 56 2dr wagon, 2 bolts at rear and fender overlap at front hold everything nicely and no unsightly gaps to contend with. sill attachment will be plug welding after my knees heal up LOL! as i go i watch for rusty spots and scrape and treat them as i go along. Luck Doofus

[Hajo]

It is really incredible. Unbelievable the help I am receiving. Thanks a million to all of you. Now we will have to enter into the next steps. Not clear to me whether our new lockdown will obstruct.

[Hajo]

Hajo, at the rocker panel to out rigger junction feel at the bottom for a couple of spot welds.they will need to be cut with a spot weld cutter. once you grind all the old weld divot off rust treat the end of the out rigger, now fit the rocker. doing this on 56 2dr wagon, 2 bolts at rear and fender overlap at front hold everything nicely and no unsightly gaps to contend with. sill attachment will be plug welding after my knees heal up LOL! as i go i watch for rusty spots and scrape and treat them as i go along. Luck Doofus

Due to the degree of corrosion we were forced to lift the cabin from the frame. This we considered the only way to make a proper restoration. On the driver side the floor plates and rocker panels and body supports were corroded away resp. what was left had to be cut away. We replaced all floor plates and both rocker panels on the cabin, sandblasted and cleaned the frame. The cabin was repainted in original color, and we re-installed it and affixed it on the 4 main bolted points.
We got aware that the most rear supports penetrate into the rocker panels. It is here we will have to make a plan by probably cutting the ends off to fit on the inside to the rocker panels. May be by utilizing modern body glues as used today instead of welding, since we do not want to hamper with the newly painted rocker panels and crate a new source for corrosion.

I know it will be difficult to afterward fit the 6 body supports, with doors, trunk lid, hood and engine/ gearbox already re-installed. But in my case it is a matter of having a lift available for this job. Fortunately I have a retired friend helping me, one of those perfectionists and magicians able to re-build a new car out of a heap of rust. He calls the Studebaker an easy and straight forward job. But it was and is a huge amount of work to get the job done properly.

Any more ideas?

Thanks again!

[Hajo]

Here are some views of bodymounts for your second question. They are insulated from the frame by rubber pads (actually pieces of old tires) about 8-9 mm thick. Your car will have inner rocker panels which are installed after these floor braces.

Many thanks Ross, I really appreciate your great effort to get the information with good photos over to me. We still have a difference between your and my car: Your car has got open rocker panels, mine has got fully enclosed ones. I start recognizing how fortunate I was to get the correct panels supplied by Classic Enterprises.
Again: Many thanks!