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60 lark v8 climatizer/ heater valve not blowing hot

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  • tsenecal
    replied
    Guess it depends on where the tap water came from. Here we have enough minerals in the water to plug a 1/2" copper pipe, especially at 180 degrees. Imagine what that is going to do to the heater and radiator cores.

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    new engine from po, cant do it without an total flush, he said it was sonic cleaned or something, i don't care about 50/50 seems high to me i do 30/70 green stuff, for rust prevention, these old cars are so easy to flush, lots of room in the engine bay, i keep an eye on all my stuff, i get away with tap water, car makers use tap water, maintenance is key

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Patrick (62champ) was trying to say that not only is it good to know if the Block and Radiator are completely Clean, but ALSO how LONG was that Coolant in there and at what percentage is the Coolant?

    It SHOULD be 50/50 Distilled Water and Prestone anti-freeze.
    It's not about the freeze protection especially where you are, but the RUST protection.
    A Cooling System Hydrometer is very reasonable at all Parts Stores.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 12-08-2020, 12:38 PM.

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  • mw2013
    replied
    now engine block sonic cleaned

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  • 62champ
    replied
    The stat is pretty generic. Factory usually equipped vehicles with a 170 degree stat, but those do not seem to exist. If you are going to pull the stat and don’t know the maintenance history, it might not be a bad idea to completely empty and refill the coolant. Good luck.

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  • mw2013
    replied
    stat is 160 i have learned, ordered a 180, are they fairly generic? or stude specific?

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Originally posted by mw2013 View Post
    i checked it out the hoses around it are hot after a drive, the plunder does not appear to be going in and out, but the lever moves, frozen /seized?
    this one looks different,
    anyway to put in a universal valve?
    That is because it is not a Temp. Control VALVE, it's the Control for the DASH!
    The type for a '59 that twist to control the Water Valve and the Switch goes in it for Fan Speed.

    Just another Non-Studebaker knowledgeable eBay seller!

    Yes a Universal Ball Valve if better, but you have to know where to look to find one that is actually for 3/4 Inch Hose NOT 5/8" AND Pull to OPEN.

    Leave a comment:


  • rbisacca
    replied
    Originally posted by mw2013 View Post
    i checked it out the hoses around it are hot after a drive, the plunder does not appear to be going in and out, but the lever moves, frozen /seized?


    this one looks different,

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1960-1961-1...wAAOSwCNJfMxRk


    anyway to put in a universal valve?
    It looks different because it's not the water valve. It's the control that is attached to the heat knob on the dash. It changes the airflow between windshield (defrost) and floor (heat).
    Use a 180 degree thermostat.
    Last edited by rbisacca; 12-12-2020, 12:22 PM.

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  • mw2013
    replied
    Originally posted by doofus View Post
    Sounds like a sheared plunger rivet. remove the valve and repair it,simple enough to do. Luck Doofus
    the po put in a bolt, the linkage is bent ( weak) i took off the bolt and pulled the plunger up( hard) and got heat( 75% of what i would like, what is the recommended thermostat temp? i think it's opening too soon

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  • doofus
    replied
    Sounds like a sheared plunger rivet. remove the valve and repair it,simple enough to do. Luck Doofus

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    i checked it out the hoses around it are hot after a drive, the plunder does not appear to be going in and out, but the lever moves, frozen /seized?


    this one looks different,

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1960-1961-1...wAAOSwCNJfMxRk


    anyway to put in a universal valve?

    Leave a comment:


  • mw2013
    replied
    Hey Rich, yes, I forgot to mention, left vent shut and right vent out, idk how to dirive a model T but when i try the heat it seems like it ha ha

    fan is on the lower right On and faster( easy)

    heat is lower left, pull out( i suppose this activates the plunger) and twist right directs air to windscreen, twist left, to floor, i like tp face, but not with this ride.....


    i have to look at the plunger and feel the heater hoses after a drive, but having to ever have to do a core job, looks easy to get to! other core jobs take the whole dash apart
    Last edited by mw2013; 11-30-2020, 08:43 AM.

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Did you read the part where it says you MUST have the Right Air Vent OPEN (Out) to get Max Air Flow?

    On some '59/'60 Lark Climatizers you PULL the Heat Control for Hot Water and Twist for Off/Low/Hi Fan and others you do it in reverse: Twist for Hot Water and Push/Pull for Off/Low/Hi Fan.

    If the Plunger LEVER on the Water Valve on the Heater Core Box on the Inner Fender under the Hood, is UP it is Open/ON, if it is DOWN it is Closed/OFF.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	new 60 Convert.jpg Views:	0 Size:	75.2 KB ID:	1867985 Click image for larger version

Name:	'60 2 Door Wagon Blue2.jpg
Views:	235
Size:	152.2 KB
ID:	1867986Just ignore this "Whirly" thing!
    The Right Side Outside Fresh Air Vent Handle
    is right there below the Left edge of the Speaker/Clock grille.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 11-29-2020, 11:21 PM.

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  • 60 lark v8 climatizer/ heater valve not blowing hot

    i read the owners manual, i know how to turn on the fan , both speeds, i know how to direct the flow to the foot wells or the windscreen, but i cannot get the blast to feel hot maybe a little bit but not much, PO said heater core is good and replaced the fiberglass housing ( looks great), could it be the valve? it is a simple device no?
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