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60 lark automatic upshift question

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  • Transmission / Overdrive: 60 lark automatic upshift question

    driving my new lark, i did notice upon careful attention and many attempts to feel and hear an upshift, I BARELY and FAINTLY (smooth as silk shift)noticed it occurring at ~20mph,regardless of gas pedal position and rate of acceleration, this is from 2nd to 3rd, since it's programmed to skip first, am I wrong?

    i do know it's 2nd, because i start in "L" and it IS in first gear and sounds and feels like it is,


    the rear end is a 3.07,

    I can't believe the punch it has at 70 mph, seems like it needs another gear, I hear the motor screaming, or is it my imagination? I hope it's not stuck in second gear, how do I know for sure?

    and why is this cross-member all bent up like this?

    and


    those to bolt holes on the tailshaft mounting bosses, is that suppose to have a cross member there as well? Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by mw2013; 11-23-2020, 12:22 AM.

  • #2
    Ask the "Mechanic" who mangled that Crossmember! Maybe he was prying on the Trans. trying to replace the Rear Engine Mounts.

    Instead of Light to Medium Throttle, try giving it 3/4 to 7/8 Go Pedal and note if it shifts firmer.

    It sounds like the Throttle Pressure adjustment is a little TOO Low.
    You will need the Shop Manual for that.

    It is possible that the Installation of the Edelbrock or AFB 4 Brl. caused the Throttle linkage to be maladjusted, a Common occurrence.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
      Ask the "Mechanic" who mangled that Crossmember! Maybe he was prying on the Trans. trying to replace the Rear Engine Mounts.

      Instead of Light to Medium Throttle, try giving it 3/4 to 7/8 Go Pedal and note if it shifts firmer.

      It sounds like the Throttle Pressure adjustment is a little TOO Low.
      You will need the Shop Manual for that.

      It is possible that the Installation of the Edelbrock or AFB 4 Brl. caused the Throttle linkage to be maladjusted, a Common occurrence.
      thank you Rich

      at least there is metal to bend and not all crumbly and flaky rust, pretending to be virgin steel to be bent

      60 years , you are gona get some yahoo, beating on the car, i am quilt y of it today, "rolling" the rear fender lips with a screwdriver, just to get it home from the tire shop, and i ruined the perfect factory fender lip that is why i am up so late, i can't sleep because of my wrong doings

      Comment


      • #4
        I am really sorry that you did not listen to our Wheel/Tire suggestions, but I know rubbing it in doesn't help your mindset, just telling it like it IS. The Truth is still better than Fake News.

        Getting back on the Subject, that Trans. issue is very fixable using the Transmission Throttle Pressure Adjustment Instructions in the Trans. Section of the Shop Manual AFTER the Carb. Linkage adjustment procedure in the Fuel Section is done.

        If this Linkage Setup is done BEFORE Clutch Plate and Band damage is done to correct the "Slip Shift" and Early Shift condition it will be a good thing.

        The "Test" I mentioned in Post #2 will tell if any damage has already been done.
        Last edited by StudeRich; 11-23-2020, 01:42 PM.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
          I am really sorry that you did not listen to our Wheel/Tire suggestions, but I know rubbing it in doesn't help your mindset, just telling it like it IS. The Truth is still better than Fake News.

          Getting back on the Subject, that Trans. issue is very fixable using the Transmission Throttle Pressure Adjustment Instructions in the Trans. Section of the Shop Manual AFTER the Carb. Linkage adjustment procedure in the Fuel Section is done.

          If this Linkage Setup is done BEFORE Clutch Plate and Band damage is done to correct the "Slip Shift" and Early Shift condition it will be a good thing.

          The "Test" I mentioned in Post #2 will tell if any damage has already been done.
          i cleared the fenders, they are fine, just a little ripply, i love my 7" black wheels and no white wall, less frilly and ornamental, makes the car look more masculine not feminine

          i hit the gas harder and there is a noticeable upshift later 25-30 mph, so i am all good, 3rd gear no lock up is a tad too low at freeway speeds, even with a 3.07 TT, no big deal

          hey Rich what is the best repair manual i am sure it does not take into account the 289 motor and the TT dana 44, and were can i get one used? thanks again for you rexpertise

          Comment


          • #6
            There is only the "STUDEBAKER" 1959 to 1964 Shop Manual, the Book version OR the CD version, which includes the much needed Chassis Parts Catalog and Body Parts Catalog, there are none as good as Studebaker and the only others are Old Used, incomplete Motors Brand Generic Shop Manuals which are little help.

            Studebaker produced some of THE Best Parts Catalogs and Manuals in the Industry, so yes it includes Repair of ALL Engines and All Differentials, Transmissions, Bodies etc. designed for Dealerships, but understandable by Car Knowledgeable People.

            You do not have to have an College Auto Mechanics Degree as I do, to understand it.

            https://studebakervendors.com
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

            Comment


            • #7
              My 61 Hawk with 3.07TT and 205-75-15 tires turns 2000RPM at 70MPH.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by paul shuffleburg View Post
                My 61 Hawk with 3.07TT and 205-75-15 tires turns 2000RPM at 70MPH.
                that doesn't sound right either, even overdrive cars don't get that low....hmmmmm

                maybe my judgement is off, it sounds like it winding out, the tag on the dana says 3.07

                Comment


                • #9
                  It will not sound like a new car does at the same speed. The gearing and sound deadening of new cars make them quieter. Also when you let off on the throttle new cars coast more while a Studebaker automatic will slow down.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The Actual Ratio is stamped into the Edge of the Ring Gear, if you take the Cover off to change Oil and or the Gasket.
                    The Former owner may not have the correct Tag when he swapped the R/A's.

                    OH, the threaded Holes in the Mount on the Trans. Tailhousing are for "Other" Makes: AMC Rambler, Ford, Mercury, International, AMC Jeep Grand Cherokee.
                    Last edited by StudeRich; 11-26-2020, 08:33 PM.
                    StudeRich
                    Second Generation Stude Driver,
                    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                      The Actual Ratio is stamped into the Edge of the Ring Gear, if you take the Cover off to change Oil and or the Gasket.
                      The Former owner may not have the correct Tag when he swapped the R/A's.

                      OH, the threaded Holes in the Mount on the Trans. Tailhousing are for "Other" Makes: AMC Rambler, Ford, Mercury, International, AMC Jeep Grand Cherokee.
                      i am buying a tach, the tag "3.07" is as old looking as the rest of the rearend

                      why to "other makes" get to have another x member and stude is left hanging? lol

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mw2013 View Post
                        /Cut/why to "other makes" get to have another x member and stude is left hanging? lol
                        Not really, other makes supported their Engine Trans. Assembly at the Rear of the Trans. Studebaker supported all the Rear weight at the Bell Housing, much stronger and better balanced.
                        StudeRich
                        Second Generation Stude Driver,
                        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by StudeRich View Post

                          Not really, other makes supported their Engine Trans. Assembly at the Rear of the Trans. Studebaker supported all the Rear weight at the Bell Housing, much stronger and better balanced.
                          i love studes, i can count the wheel rotation to drive shaft rotation, without greasy, with the TT, do i jack both wheels off the ground?

                          the more i mess with it the more i realize how durable the construction is...solid...but" weight is the enemy"

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