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what is exact dimesions and the stock backspace for a 60 lark 2 dr v8 wheel

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Skip Lackie View Post
    The stock wheels were perfectly adequate for the cars that Studebaker was building 60 years ago, and were not really weak when compared to other contemporary wheels. . But the tire industry has changed the aspect ratio 2 or 3 times since then, and there are no modern equivalents to the 6.40 or 6.70 x 15 tires that Studebaker put on their cars then. The OEM wheels certainly are too narrow for the commonly available 215/75x15 radial tires, and were not designed for radials anyway. That said, some of us had good luck with mounting 195 radials on them, but that size has pretty well disappeared from the market place.

    If your tires are in good shape, there will be people who will want them. Throwing away usable Stude parts is kinda frowned upon. You might even make a few bucks on the transaction.
    i am talking about the wheels, the rubber will be used up, if no one wants them for aforementioned reasons, then they may end up being something useful when scrapped,... what i can sell them for 25 a piece? and 2 years effort, maybe i can give them to another stude owner who wants to go "correct"?

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    • #17
      Originally posted by mw2013 View Post
      well then..the offset part of the equation confuses me, is it moot, if i know the backspace?
      They are different ways to get at the same solution. My old brain still works on back spacing but here's the comparison.

      https://www.discounttire.com/learn/o...%20the%20wheel.

      IAC, measure to find out what you can use before you buy anything.

      Bob

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      • #18
        i checked all lark types from 59-66 have a body width of 71.3-71.5 and if all rear end width are the same i.e. any rear end swap will mount on the springs with the right hardware, then the wheel well cavity are approximately the same, in the rear,but idk how different the front in suspension is, i feel a 15 x7 while max width(for me) is doable with the right back space, of 3" which is only5/8" more inboard than stock

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        • #19
          Originally posted by mw2013 View Post

          i am talking about the wheels, the rubber will be used up, if no one wants them for aforementioned reasons, then they may end up being something useful when scrapped,... what i can sell them for 25 a piece? and 2 years effort, maybe i can give them to another stude owner who wants to go "correct"?
          While I have all the stock S-P wheels I need (for both my 62 Champ and my 59 Lark), there are plenty of folks that will buy those rims from you! And in full disclosure, $25 apiece would be a steal.

          Given their rarity and assuming they are in good shape, you could get double that or more. Freight is often the kicker with steel wheels.

          DW

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          • #20
            Originally posted by mw2013 View Post

            i am talking about the wheels, the rubber will be used up, if no one wants them for aforementioned reasons, then they may end up being something useful when scrapped,... what i can sell them for 25 a piece? and 2 years effort, maybe i can give them to another stude owner who wants to go "correct"?
            I was only disputing the word "weak" in your earlier post. My point was that the Stude wheels were perfectly fine for the narrow, 85 or 90-series bias-ply tires that were common 60 years ago. They are not capable of handling the stresses of 8.5" wide, 70 or 75-series radials that are common today.
            Skip Lackie

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            • #21
              mw -

              EXACT...is a pretty tall order to ask people.
              And to how many decimal points would be good ?

              Mike

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten View Post
                mw -

                EXACT...is a pretty tall order to ask people.
                And to how many decimal points would be good ?

                Mike
                you're right, exact is not needed in this case

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                • #23
                  the rears were next to the fenders, i had to get a screwdriver shaft in there to "roll" it for some peace of mind, they are 15x7 3.75 back space, with 205x75x15 Click image for larger version  Name:	20201122_131213.jpg Views:	0 Size:	107.7 KB ID:	1866530Click image for larger version  Name:	20201122_131142.jpg Views:	0 Size:	129.8 KB ID:	1866531Click image for larger version  Name:	20201122_131620.jpg Views:	0 Size:	125.2 KB ID:	1866532Click image for larger version  Name:	20201122_131452.jpg Views:	0 Size:	89.7 KB ID:	1866533Click image for larger version  Name:	20201122_131625.jpg Views:	0 Size:	118.2 KB ID:	1866534Click image for larger version  Name:	20201122_131149.jpg Views:	0 Size:	134.4 KB ID:	1866535Click image for larger version  Name:	20201122_131202.jpg Views:	0 Size:	116.0 KB ID:	1866536Click image for larger version  Name:	20201122_131513.jpg Views:	0 Size:	91.2 KB ID:	1866537Click image for larger version  Name:	20201122_131551.jpg Views:	0 Size:	107.0 KB ID:	1866538Click image for larger version  Name:	20201122_131134.jpg Views:	0 Size:	125.0 KB ID:	1866539

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                  • #24
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                    • #25
                      You took a screwdriver to "roll" the fenders to clear these tires/wheels...? I hope you know what you're doing in the long run and stay safe.

                      Altering the geometries like wheel offset are rarely a good idea on ~60+ year old steering components and rear axle components alike. You've seen our threads elsewhere on the topic of radials versus bias-ply construction. Radials allow for much greater lateral stresses on rims, so while you've installed what appear to be modern J-code steel safety rims, they are no longer the weak link when cornering hard. Go easy.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                        UPDATE: OK back to the Real, IMPORTANT Original Question: What IS the Wheel Backspace?

                        The first three are very easy, the 4th. would take a measure, because "About" doesn't work.

                        4 1/2 Inches Wide inside the bead.

                        15 Inches Dia.

                        5 on 4 1/2 Inches, Standard Ford/Chrysler Pattern.

                        Backspace: Measured from the outside of the Inner Rim Surface to the Drum Mounting Surface of an Original '59 Lark Wheel = 2 3/8 Inches.

                        Keep in mind that these Wheels are for the Stock Drum Brakes, and will not have enough clearance for Disc Brake Conversions.
                        ________________________________________________________________________________ ____________

                        3/4 Inch Hex Lug Nuts, that do not work on other make Wheels that use 13/16" WRENCH Size, Also 1/2 -20 I.D. as apposed to the Stude. 3/4" Wrench Size and different Seat Angles, an easy fix.

                        3 Humps Molded into the wheel "Center" that hold the Studebaker only sized, small Hubcaps when the Optional Wheel Covers are not used.

                        hey rich, i measure the stock backspace and it's 3.5 not 2 3/8, i increased it .25 with my new wheels to 3.75, i can see why the chrysler cop car wheel with 4" will allow a 215mm wide , my 205mm is close, i had to push up the fender lip 1/8" inch or so

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by NCDave51 View Post
                          You took a screwdriver to "roll" the fenders to clear these tires/wheels...? I hope you know what you're doing in the long run and stay safe.

                          Altering the geometries like wheel offset are rarely a good idea on ~60+ year old steering components and rear axle components alike. You've seen our threads elsewhere on the topic of radials versus bias-ply construction. Radials allow for much greater lateral stresses on rims, so while you've installed what appear to be modern J-code steel safety rims, they are no longer the weak link when cornering hard. Go easy.
                          the stock offset is 3.5 backspace, my new rims are 3.75 backspace


                          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YF8i4iAohjw


                          i don't see them babying the lark in this commercial on the dirt road, between stories of tapered axles breaking and now this comment, i am thinking these studes are brittle and fragile, i took it on the freeway, the only thing not so good was the manual drum brake, but i do the like the "full screen "view all the way around, no blind spots, bench seat, column shift auto love it!
                          Last edited by mw2013; 11-22-2020, 07:50 PM.

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                          • #28
                            I guess it matters what Studebaker Parts are being called "Fragile".

                            Engines: Certainly not.
                            Borg Warner Transmissions: Certainly not.
                            Dana Model 44 Rear Ends: Certainly not.
                            Solid King Pin Front Suspension: Certainly not.
                            Steering System: as tough as they get.
                            Axles: prone to Age Hardening and Crystallizing at the beginning of the Taper and breaking when abused.

                            Many times when someone is just gently cruising down the Road or more commonly accelerating reasonably from a Stop and an Axle breaks, it is caused by a Younger or more aggressive Driver having Fun with it the Night before!
                            Please don't ask how I know that be be true.


                            The good News is; Moser Flanged Axle Conversion Kits are available.
                            StudeRich
                            Second Generation Stude Driver,
                            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                              I guess it matters what Studebaker Parts are being called "Fragile".

                              Engines: Certainly not.
                              Borg Warner Transmissions: Certainly not.
                              Dana Model 44 Rear Ends: Certainly not.
                              Solid King Pin Front Suspension: Certainly not.
                              Steering System: as tough as they get.
                              Axles: prone to Age Hardening and Crystallizing at the beginning of the Taper and breaking when abused.

                              Many times when someone is just gently cruising down the Road or more commonly accelerating reasonably from a Stop and an Axle breaks, it is caused by a Younger or more aggressive Driver having Fun with it the Night before!
                              Please don't ask how I know that be be true.


                              The good News is; Moser Flanged Axle Conversion Kits are available.

                              thanks now i could beat on it, in the front and easy does it in the back

                              but my steering is mighty loose is that normal?, lots of play on the wheel ( manual)

                              i went from a 3.73 flanged to a 3.07 tapered twin traction, fingers crossed

                              the brakes don't inspire confidence, so i have to slow for that reason alone and no shoulder seat belts is another, wham in the steering wheel and 4-5 root canals no thank you

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