why can't i just get larger diameter tires instead of changing gears 60 lark with a 3.73?

[BILT4ME]

City driving, I always shift to low for starts. I am a spirited driver and no, it will NOT spin the tires on pavement.

It is "comfortable" driving on the interstate at 70 MPH and is about 3100 RPM IIRC. Yes, at 100 MPH, it's about 4400 RPM. Mine runs out of oomph at that speed.

One of the Dana 27's I had in was a 4.56 and I could smoke the tires, but I was done at 55 MPH. Intersection to intersection in a small town was fun.

I ran 3.73 for a while and it had great torque and off- the line, but too much RPM at highway speed and that's when it was 55 MPH.

I have been focusing on getting it back to "stock" configuration, as my original had 3.31 rear gears.
Yes these tires are slightly taller, but the next comparable size is much smaller. This combo allows it to be comfortable on the interstate.

Start with the factory configuration, figure out your final drive ratio, then adjust for what you have added. There will still be some "feel" that you may or may not like.

I personally think 3.07 will be too tall for city driving. Yes, you can modify your transmission to be an first-gear start, but you will also lose the push-start possibility. I happen to like it and don't want to mess with that part.

Realize that there are limited "performance" parts for Studes, as their equipment was either their own or just enough different that it wouldn't cross over. The typical Stude owner was NOT a performance minded individual, as these were the less expensive of the autos on the market at the time. Yes, there were a few performance options or cars, but most of those were reserved for the Avantis, at least in how you may be looking at them today.

There are few guys here that have seriously hot-rodded their actual Stude stuff, but it doesn't come cheap unless you have the tooling and time.

Track down a Factory Service Manual for the Stude and supplement that with a Motor brand service manual dated 1965, as that will have the specs you are looking for and you can find cross-over year info for Studes as well as other makes. If you want much better performance, consider a Paxton supercharger, but those parts are not cheap or easy to find.

[Ross]

I've driven something like 50K miles in a car with 3.73 including a trip from MD to CO and MD to UT running 65 to occasionally 75. That would be 3500 rpm at 75. Dude, like what is the problem? These engines are not made out of cotton candy. If you are going to commute in it, then change the axle, but if it is for weekend wahoo then just drive it.

When I freshened up the engine at 95K with some new rings and valve seals the bearings etc were all beautiful. And that in an engine with a 4" stroke. Turn the radio up louder and just drive the thing.

[mw2013]

sounds like you better go back to a 2v

the car i bought already had the swap to flanged axle dana 44 , with 3.73, thanks for letting me know how to do the swap, your tire is taller, making the 3.31 higher, maybe to the 3.10 range and with the auto 2nd gear start I can see why it's a dog on take offs, what's it's cruising speed? my car that is coming has a r1 cam in a full flow 289, with higher compression and 4v 1000 mile new motor, i suppose, it has more torque/

like Rich says I better drive the car first to see whcih way i need to go, but the seller my throw in a 3.31 axle for me before he ships it

[BILT4ME]

I have a 59 Lark VIII 2DHTP.
259 V8 AT, came with a Dana Model 23 from factory. Was shelled when I bought it. Installed a Dana 27. Broke two of those.

It now has a Dana 44 from a 64 Daytona. In order to swap, you must pull the spring shock mount plates and U-bolts from the 64 because the tube is larger. Mine is the tapered axle unit so all my brakes and drums from my 59 work on it. The driveshaft will b a different length because the head of the D44 is longer than the D27.

I have the 3.31 gears and am running stock Stude wheels with Uniroyal Tiger Paw P205/75R15 tires. My speedo runs about 5 MPH faster than I'm actually moving.

I have installed an Edelbrock carburetor. The car still can't get out of its own way. It was originally equipped with a 2V carburetor and it had way more power with that than it ever had with a 4V, Carter or otherwise. It will, however reach 100 MPH. Allegedly.

I used to get 20 MPG with the 2V and now get about 8 MPG with the Edelbrock.

Have driven the car on the Hot Rod Power Tour twice with no issues other than a front wheel bearing.

[Skip Lackie]

t
good to know any stude 44 will bolt right in

Not quite. Any Stude CAR 44 will fit. Stude trucks used Dana 44s too, and the carriers were different.

[mw2013]

The '62 to '66 do have Larger Rear Wheelwell openings and '64-'66 are different Front also, I don't know HOW much that helps.

The Axle you need would be from someone who wanted better performance like a Hawk a member here built with 3.54 Ratio. Also many of us have Parted Out Cars that are under 100,000 Miles and from running Cars.

All V8 Cars from '53 to 1958 have the Model 44, and all '59 to '66 with 289 or 283 V8's also do, and All Spring Perch's and Widths are the same '53 to '66.

That is the BIG advantage to owning a Stude. you don't have Annual and Mid Year changes, different Model differences etc. , all over the place Like GM.

thanks Rich you are a rich source of stude info, yes because of stude's never ending financial problems, they parts binned all the cars, but a dana 44 is one beefy rear end , i think they never really needed,until the high horse avanti's came out,

good to know any stude 44 will bolt right in

[StudeRich]

thanks what year car do they come out of? do they vary in width? and spring perch mounting dimensions? and mine has flanged axles, so i need those as well

The '62 to '66 do have Larger Rear Wheelwell openings and '64-'66 are different Front also, I don't know HOW much that helps.

The Axle you need would be from someone who wanted better performance like a Hawk a member here built with 3.54 Ratio. Also many of us have Parted Out Cars that are under 100,000 Miles and from running Cars.

All V8 Cars from '53 to 1958 have the Model 44, and all '60 to '66 with 289 or 283 V8's also do, and All Spring Perch's and Widths are the same '53 to '66.

That is the BIG advantage to owning a Stude. you don't have Annual and Mid Year changes, different Model differences etc. , all over the place Like GM.

Whether you could use your Flanged Axles, depends whether they are Aftermarket Ted Harbit/Phil Harris, Fairborn Studebaker or Original Studebaker '65/'66 Axles.
A '64 Daytona with Larger Wheelwells.
Oh yeah, also a Avanti High Performance 289!
I am not Braggin, because it isn't mine, but just Say'n it's COOL!

[mw2013]

Mason,
Here is my '59 HT with 215/70r15 on 15x7 Chryco Cop Car wheels. They are available from Wheel Vintiques.

thank you man

this one??


https://www.wheelvintiques.com/wheel...=50&finish=256

215/70R15
Diameter : 26.9"
Width : 8.5"
Wheel : 15" x 5.5-7"
Sidewall : 5.9"
Circum. : 84.3"
Revs/Mile : 752

goes to 3.47 rear ratio when tires are new, they do get smaller




That looks mean, I love it and no bumpers, you are a risk taker, can i ask you for a side picture and what back space it is?

[Buzzard]

Mason,
Here is my '59 HT with 215/70r15 on 15x7 Chryco Cop Car wheels. They are available from Wheel Vintiques.

[mw2013]

That sounds good. But, I do think we may not have mentioned this enough or at ALL.
About How cheap it would be to Buy a Club Member's un-needed Complete Twin Traction, 3.31 Ratio Dana 44 Diff., less Backing Plates and Drums for maybe $300.00 or less and a few Hours DIYS labor and be Done with it!

thanks what year car do they come out of? do they vary in width? and spring perch mounting dimensions? and mine has flanged axles, so i need those as well

[mw2013]

I think that you are overthinking your issue. First of all, swapping ring gears shouldn’t cost anything like $750 - $1400.00.
Maybe because up here in the Northwest, there are lots of shops that specialize in Jeeps and other 4 wheel drive vehicles. They are totally familiar with Type 44 rear ends and work on them regularly.
But, even better, it is so easy to swap an entire rear axle assembly out of a Studebaker and good used assemblies should be available. Get a 3.31 or a 3.07 for instance. And don’t tell yourself you need Twin Traction because you don’t. You can make this swap in a couple of hours and a good used Rear end might be $100.00 - $250.00 or so. Get connected with your local club members for parts leads.

yes it cost that much here is LA, i called around .....and now you guys tell me about the used rear end, so why would they want to sell it? i guess i could sell mine with the 3.73 thanks guys

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

I think that you are overthinking your issue. First of all, swapping ring gears shouldn’t cost anything like $750 - $1400.00.
Maybe because up here in the Northwest, there are lots of shops that specialize in Jeeps and other 4 wheel drive vehicles. They are totally familiar with Type 44 rear ends and work on them regularly.
But, even better, it is so easy to swap an entire rear axle assembly out of a Studebaker and good used assemblies should be available. Get a 3.31 or a 3.07 for instance. And don’t tell yourself you need Twin Traction because you don’t. You can make this swap in a couple of hours and a good used Rear end might be $100.00 - $250.00 or so. Get connected with your local club members for parts leads.

[mw2013]

The Tire rubbing may happen, but it is ALL about the Wheel Width and offset, they only way to be sure is test fit a Tire/Wheel, even others with the same Car will not have the same Ride Height which may actually Lower the Rear with more weight transfer, there is Limited Tire clearance on all four and the Right Rear is usually closer to the Fender than the Left!

Yes if you leave the Nose High, it will help, "SOME", it is like the Tires, VERY little help for a 3.73 Axle.
Only an Overdrive or a Higher Ratio will "Fix" the RPM issue.

The Lexus thing was my whole point Mason, those who expect their Stude. to drive like a Lexus need to just buy one, because it will NOT happen.
As I said I think you are smarter than that, but just don't get into TOO many 2020 upgrades on this '60 Lark until you Drive it and learn more about it.

someone on facebook put 225/75/15 (stock looking)on a 64, does the 60 have the same clearances?

[StudeRich]

That sounds good. But, I do think we may not have mentioned this enough or at ALL.
About How cheap it would be to Buy a Club Member's un-needed Complete Twin Traction, 3.31 Ratio Dana 44 Diff., less Backing Plates and Drums for maybe $300.00 or less and a few Hours DIYS labor and be Done with it!

[mw2013]

The Tire rubbing may happen, but it is ALL about the Wheel Width and offset, they only way to be sure is test fit a Tire/Wheel, even others with the same Car will not have the same Ride Height which may actually Lower the Rear with more weight transfer, there is Limited Tire clearance on all four and the Right Rear is usually closer to the Fender than the Left!

Yes if you leave the Nose High, it will help, "SOME", it is like the Tires, VERY little help for a 3.73 Axle.
Only an Overdrive or a Higher Ratio will "Fix" the RPM issue.

The Lexus thing was my whole point Mason, those who expect their Stude. to drive like a Lexus need to just buy one, because it will NOT happen.
As I said I think you are smarter than that, but just don't get into TOO many 2020 upgrades on this '60 Lark until you Drive it and learn more about it.

you are right Rich, i need to drive it first, i am getting ahead of myself

the car is turn key, nothing else to do, nor do i want to 'molest" it in any way, i am an adult, not some wanna be kid racer....i am here to preserve the lark for what it is, and how it cam from the factory, my make it go fast corvette days are over, my motorcycle is for that, i know what the stude is and what it is not. i want to drive it, on the freeeways, and 60mph is simply not going to keep up

a 27 inch tire will yield a 3.4ish rear ratio, and i get better traction and maybe some looks to go with it to boot, that all, $500 to 700 , or maybe less, gets me my ratio and better rubber

no $3000-4000,200r4 or 700r4 swap
no$450 NOS 6cyl valve body swaps and who know who can do it and for how much
no $750-1400, rear gear swap
no keeping it at 3.73 and maxing out at 60mph
no getting a 3.07 or 3.31 having spent $1400 to swap it over and have the engine lug in 2nd gear starts

i'll have it lug with the tires for a lot less headache

all this is reversible with a floor jack and a lug wrench and 1 hours work