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  • Ignition: Coils and Plug Wires - Best Source?

    I want to replace the ignition coil and plug wires on my 62 GT to eliminate ignition as a source of rough idle and sluggish performance. (It's already converted to electronic ignition) They have both been on the car a long time. SI advertises two types of wires, the EPDM style close to OEM and the CHT core silicone wire. Are the silicone wires a better product? Any downside to them?

    Also, I was wondering if there is a higher performance coil available in an OEM size so that it fits in the original holder?

    Whats the best source for this kind of stuff, SI or somewhere else?

    Thanks!

  • #2
    I personally like Pertronix products. I know they have mixed reviews. They have 7mm wires which are basically the stock size and they don't have a bunch of markings, so they pretty much look stock. These will work with electronic ignitions. What was yours converted to?
    https://pertronixbrands.com/products...31797274542116
    https://pertronixbrands.com/products...31797274673188

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    • #3
      Originally posted by MOJOJOJO78 View Post
      I personally like Pertronix products. I know they have mixed reviews. They have 7mm wires which are basically the stock size and they don't have a bunch of markings, so they pretty much look stock. These will work with electronic ignitions. What was yours converted to?
      https://pertronixbrands.com/products...31797274542116
      https://pertronixbrands.com/products...31797274673188
      Thanks, yes I know some guys with Pertronix systems and they are happy. This was converted to the Chrysler system that I believe was available before Pertronix etc.. It has the porcelain baluster that can fail and you always have to carry a spare! It seems to work OK but I want to upgrade the coil and wires. I have put a new Edelbrock 1403 and cannot stop the fowling of plugs under load so am wondering if the coil is weak or plug wire leaking. The carb should be dialed in but just can't stop the rich running! Any smaller jets and its too lean! It was also converted to hydraulic lifers so it's not valve adjustment! I'll look at the Pertronix products!

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      • #4
        You haven't told which spark plugs you're running. The problem could be something as simple as too cold a heat range for your engine combination and driving style.

        We've built several 308" engines which required different spark plugs. One went to AZ and an owner who drove it like he stole it. That one required colder spark plugs. Another stayed here in the northwest with an owner who pooped around and never got into the secondaries. That one required a much hotter spark plug to keep from fouling.

        jack vines
        PackardV8

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        • #5
          Studebaker V8's never had Angled Distributor Boots and Not 90 degree Plug ends either, so that should narrow your choice of Wires for good Fit and appearance.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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          • #6
            Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
            You haven't told which spark plugs you're running. The problem could be something as simple as too cold a heat range for your engine combination and driving style.

            We've built several 308" engines which required different spark plugs. One went to AZ and an owner who drove it like he stole it. That one required colder spark plugs. Another stayed here in the northwest with an owner who pooped around and never got into the secondaries. That one required a much hotter spark plug to keep from fouling.

            jack vines
            Champion RH18Y (H10C) Eight of them

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
              Studebaker V8's never had Angled Distributor Boots and Not 90 degree Plug ends either, so that should narrow your choice of Wires for good Fit and appearance.
              Yes precisely, I see that SI has them, just wondered if any other suppliers do? Any advantage in going to a higher performance coil or just replace with OEM style? Any higher performance coils available in OEM size?

              Comment


              • #8
                I recently installed an aftermarket distributor from TSP (ebay item # 324207607569) which came with a 45000 volt coil. I couldn't be happier; the car starts better an runs with more authority. TSP has a few different configurations for Studes. The item I referenced looks stock with straight boots

                Interestingly with the old set-up I was always blowing black crud out the pipes when I first would start the car (cold starts). No more crud with the new set-up.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by 4NStudy View Post
                  I recently installed an aftermarket distributor from TSP (ebay item # 324207607569) which came with a 45000 volt coil. I couldn't be happier; the car starts better an runs with more authority. TSP has a few different configurations for Studes. The item I referenced looks stock with straight boots

                  Interestingly with the old set-up I was always blowing black crud out the pipes when I first would start the car (cold starts). No more crud with the new set-up.
                  That's exactly the sort of issue I have, black carbon trail behind the pipes on start. I'll have a look at that coil, thanks! How are things in NOTL? I grew up in Vineland!

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                  • #10
                    That usually means the choke is set a tad too rich. It would not have too much to do with the coil. Carbon fouling, if present, indicates too rich mixture or too cold plugs. Get a good coil; check resistance in 1ary and 2ary circuits. Many replacement coils will be really weak--eg 1.6 to 2.2 Ohms and 6 or 7k Ohms. You want 1.2 to 1.4 and 10k to 13k. Take a VOM to the coil store!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Kato View Post

                      How are things in NOTL? I grew up in Vineland!
                      Very busy with lots of tourist, despite Covid!

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                      • #12
                        Here is what I used on my previously dormant US6 (22 years sitting):
                        It works superbly well.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Jeffry Cassel View Post
                          That usually means the choke is set a tad too rich. It would not have too much to do with the coil. Carbon fouling, if present, indicates too rich mixture or too cold plugs.
                          I actually think there was something else going on. First of all the choke is inoperable and set in the fully open position, and it didn't seem like the kinda of exhaust smoke you'd expect to see in a rich condition. The crud was suspened in water vapor and it never smelled like unburnt fuel. It had no odour that I could detect.

                          I couldn't figure it out and the problem disappeared with the new distributor set-up. The only other changes I made was to remove the balast resistor, and to open up the spark plug gap to .045", as per the manufactures instruction.

                          It remains a mystery

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by 4NStudy View Post

                            Very busy with lots of tourist, despite Covid!
                            It's always been that way!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Jeffry Cassel View Post
                              That usually means the choke is set a tad too rich. It would not have too much to do with the coil. Carbon fouling, if present, indicates too rich mixture or too cold plugs. Get a good coil; check resistance in 1ary and 2ary circuits. Many replacement coils will be really weak--eg 1.6 to 2.2 Ohms and 6 or 7k Ohms. You want 1.2 to 1.4 and 10k to 13k. Take a VOM to the coil store!
                              Thanks for the info!

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