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CASO heater control

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  • Cool/Heat: CASO heater control

    Found coolant on the passenger floor and tracked it down to the control valve. $6 trip to the hardware store later, dry and warm (knock wood) 😁
    Attached Files

  • #2
    That's good, plus it works.

    Most people seem to use their heaters in a digital manner - either full on or completely off. They are not aware of any intermediate position.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

    Comment


    • #3
      Good job. Even better if the valve has a stainless steel ball and Teflon seats.
      With a little further thought and creative fabrication (fabricobbling), you could even modify the valve handle to accept a cable so that you can adjust the water flow and heat from the dash just like the original valve.
      John Clary
      Greer, SC

      SDC member since 1975

      Comment


      • #4
        Very creative. Thank you for sharing. I have always been a big fan of function over form.
        Studebaker! If you're lucky enough to own one, you're lucky enough!!!

        Comment


        • #5
          My dad used the same valve in his '53, thirty years ago. He mounted it so he could attach the stock cable to opperate it, been working fine ever since. In my GT I used a Ford/GM/Chrysler inline valve that is meant to be cable controled and used the stock cable to work it. My stock valve worked fine but it's bulky and was in the way of moving my battery to the right side. The valve I used looks like this:
          Click image for larger version

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          Here's one on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Auto-He....c100005.m1851
          sigpic

          Comment


          • #6
            That's great, but you need one that is "Pull to Open", not Close and for 1959 and Newer Studes. it needs to accept 3/4" Hose In and Out.
            Otherwise for '47 to '58 you need one to accept small 5/8" Hose.

            Usually it is hard to find a seller that will tell you ANYTHING that Matters, about their offshore product.
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

            Comment


            • #7
              Mill Supply has valves that either push or pull to close, and fit 5/8" hose. These were used in most of the step vans prior to electric controlled valves.

              https://www.millsupply.com/cable-ope...3.php?p=324877
              "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

              Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
              Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
              '33 Rockne 10,
              '51 Commander Starlight,
              '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
              '56 Sky Hawk

              Comment


              • #8
                That could be a better Valve than the thin sheet steel on the one in Post #5, But due to the dark Black Color it's hard to tell what it is made of, it looks like it COULD be Cast!

                I never heard of "Mill Supply", they have some Good Stuff!

                Isn't that always the way with Auto Parts Websites nowadays, they list EVERY Brand of Car including Obscure, Obsolete makes Like; Saturn, Plymouth, Mercury, Pontiac, Oldsmobile and 1732 Ford Parts, but NO Studebaker!
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                Comment


                • #9
                  The Mill supply valve looks like composite to me. May not be a bad thing though, when it comes to corrosion.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Took the car out for breakfast this morning. The wife liked the heater under her seat😁
                    This is a Band-Aid until I get around to fixing the original. I don’t want to drive around with a two inch hole in the firewall this winter. I found this site for DIY repair:
                    https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Ran...b/rancotb.html

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                      I never heard of "Mill Supply", they have some Good Stuff!
                      To anyone who has managed a fleet of step vans, the Mill Supply catalog is a bible.

                      "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

                      Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                      '33 Rockne 10,
                      '51 Commander Starlight,
                      '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
                      '56 Sky Hawk

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by StudeRich View Post

                        Isn't that always the way with Auto Parts Websites nowadays, they list EVERY Brand of Car including Obscure, Obsolete makes Like; Saturn, Plymouth, Mercury, Pontiac, Oldsmobile and 1732 Ford Parts, but NO Studebaker!
                        But when they do list Studebaker, they get often/usually it wrong, so.... what is worse?
                        RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                        17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                        10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                        10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                        4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                        5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                        56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                        60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                          That's great, but you need one that is "Pull to Open", not Close and for 1959 and Newer Studes. it needs to accept 3/4" Hose In and Out.
                          Otherwise for '47 to '58 you need one to accept small 5/8" Hose.

                          Usually it is hard to find a seller that will tell you ANYTHING that Matters, about their offshore product.
                          That Ebay listing I posted was just for reference, it's not the actual one I used. The one I used is 5/8" in and out and does function in the correct direction. My '62 uses 5/8" heater hoses.
                          sigpic

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post

                            But when they do list Studebaker, they get often/usually it wrong, so.... what is worse?
                            I believe that our own SDC member vendors do such a great job of supporting our parts needs that it discourages the average " Big-Three" focused market from jumping into the Studebaker parts business.

                            Those that do offer Studebaker parts are usually very narrowly focused on items that cross-reference and apply to multiple makes industry-wide. (And as Roy states, they often get it wrong and have the application cataloged wrong.) So, I believe it is in our collective interest to support our SDC vendors when it makes sense. I still buy from local flaps for convenience items like points, spark plugs, etc., when readily available and priced reasonable.
                            John Clary
                            Greer, SC

                            SDC member since 1975

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by bensherb View Post

                              That Ebay listing I posted was just for reference, it's not the actual one I used. The one I used is 5/8" in and out and does function in the correct direction. My '62 uses 5/8" heater hoses.
                              I like the looks of the one you used. It looks compact, and simple. I don't know if it has a ball & seat internal construction or a simple gate valve? However, it looks to be only 1/4 turn actuated, comes with a stationary connect point for the cable sheath (so you don't have to engineer one) and that puts you way ahead of the game giving you the opportunity to use your factory stock cable.
                              John Clary
                              Greer, SC

                              SDC member since 1975

                              Comment

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