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Dumb engine questions

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  • Engine: Dumb engine questions

    I’ve never worked on a car this old before. I was poking around in the 5 minutes I had before work and found a couple things:

    The oil filter: does this whole metal bit get cleaned out somehow and reused? Or is this part replaced? A couple of my modern(ish) cars have the replacement elements, but they’re paper/plastic/whatever, not this sturdy looking metal element.

    What goes in the oil bath air filter? Mine’s currently filled with leaves and some black stuff that looks like drain oil...

    There was this “mystery spring” laying on the intake manifold when I took the air cleaner off. Anybody wanna guess where it’s supposed to go? It looks like one side of it broke off ... something and it was just laying there not connected to anything.


    I got the radiator cap off, and it looks Green inside (I was expecting rusty water, since this car lived in California all it’s life) I was planning on draining out the cooling system anyway before it stays below freezing here, but if it’s Antifreeze already, perhaps I have some more time before I HAVE to... what do I do with used Antifreeze? I know where to take my used oil but I’ve never tried to get rid of coolant before.

    I can rotate the Fan, but the belt doesn’t turn (or anything connected to it) I shouldn’t be able to turn the engine with just the fan though, right? I’d need to put a socket on something for that, right? This is the classic “ran when parked” car, but it hasn't been registered since 1977 (and the guy I got it from, bought it in 1995) so I know it’s been sitting a loooong time. Or maybe I shouldn’t worry about turning it until I’m ready to actually get it running...

    Most of what I’m assuming are the heater hoses are off and laying on the fender. Are these hard to come by, or am I gonna be getting generic hoses and making something up?

    Can I get my pressure washer and clean out under here, or are there parts I need to mask off/cover up first?


    Thank you everyone for putting up with my questions!
    Attached Files
    Proud new owner of a 56 Power Hawk!

  • #2
    You will probably want to order the Shop Manual. It will save you from a lot of headaches.

    1. Yes, that entire canister with the little wire filter gets discarded and replaced. The new filter should come with a new gasket for the lid.

    2. The oil bath air filter gets a new quart of fresh engine oil after you clean out all the leaves and old dirty oil in a parts washer or solvent bath of some sort..

    3. That looks like one of the springs for the hood hinge. Each corner should have two springs of differing lengths.

    4. Wherever you take your used oil should also be able to take your antifreeze. I would flush that system really well, and that's going to require the engine to be running, and then refill it with a 50/50 dilution of G0-5 antifreeze. It is pH neutral, contains no phosphates and mixes with any other type of antifreeze.

    5. It sounds like your engine is froze. But you are also correct in not making it your major concern for the moment (others may disagree). I WOULD pull out each spark plug and dump several ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in to each cylinder. This will work on freeing up both the valves and the pistons while you deal with the brakes, which are critically more important than the engine. No GO is much preferable than No WHOA! Address all aspects of your brake syatem!

    6. You will buy your heater and defroster hoses by the foot at your local auto supply. If you have the option, get black instead of red. No Studebakers left the factory with red heater hoses.

    7. I would say go ahead and pressure wash it, but make certain water won't get in the spark plug holes or down the carburetor.

    AND NOW! You can ask about the brakes.

    Here's a good article the Studebaker Drivers Club has shared with many over the years. Most of it is common sense, but it's well worth reading.
    http://studebakerdriversclub.com/TechThings2do.asp
    "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

    Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
    '33 Rockne 10,
    '51 Commander Starlight,
    '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
    '56 Sky Hawk

    Comment


    • #3
      I should have added that I have a Turner kit on its way to me, the brakes are definitely gonna get done before anything else is.
      Proud new owner of a 56 Power Hawk!

      Comment


      • #4
        Excellent questions! Getting answers to these, and anything else you are not familiar with, saves a whole lot of grief down the road. "There is no such thing as a dumb question!"

        As Rockne10 says, definitely get the Shop Manual, and I would add the Chassis and Body Parts Catalogues. You will need them when you order parts. They also have excellent drawings of how parts fit together and where they go.

        If you have not already done so, join the Studebaker Drivers Club Inc. and your local Chapter. You will find both to be of great help in enjoying your Studebaker.

        Bill
        Bill Jarvis

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Daan View Post
          I should have added that I have a Turner kit on its way to me, the brakes are definitely gonna get done before anything else is.
          I would not have recommended that you purchase a Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit until you have the examined the MOST expensive part of your Brake System, the DRUMS.

          Condemning your Drum Brake System BEFORE knowing what you have is not a Cost effective way to proceed.
          There is NOTHING wrong with a 11 Inch Front/10 Inch Rear, Self Energizing Wagner Brake System like you have.

          If this Hawk was built with a 289 Engine, it even had Finned, air cooled Drums all the way around, one of the best in the industry, SO good it was used in part from 1954 and as yours from 1956, all the way to 1966.

          Now that you have ordered Front Discs, NOW you have to figure out how to deal with the Rear Drums and required Power Brake Booster and under floor Master Cylinder to get the Car to STOP, and also to Stop straight, with no spin.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

          Comment


          • #6
            The spring looks to me, like the one for the master brake cylinder.

            Mike
            Mike and Dawn

            '61 Champ

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by StudeRich View Post

              I would not have recommended that you purchase a Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit until you have the examined the MOST expensive part of your Brake System, the DRUMS.

              Condemning your Drum Brake System BEFORE knowing what you have is not a Cost effective way to proceed.
              There is NOTHING wrong with a 11 Inch Front/10 Inch Rear, Self Energizing Wagner Brake System like you have.

              If this Hawk was built with a 289 Engine, it even had Finned, air cooled Drums all the way around, one of the best in the industry, SO good it was used in part from 1954 and as yours from 1956, all the way to 1966.

              Now that you have ordered Front Discs, NOW you have to figure out how to deal with the Rear Drums and required Power Brake Booster and under floor Master Cylinder to get the Car to STOP, and also to Stop straight, with no spin.


              I have the “smooth” drums all around, (NON power) and the seller told me up front that the brakes were shot. So I already know I need to replace everything anyway, so I wanted to put discs and a dual master in it to begin with. The lines are shot, too so those are getting replaced too.

              Attached Files
              Proud new owner of a 56 Power Hawk!

              Comment


              • #8
                Dan, glad you are asking questions. Don't be afraid to ask anything as there are many folks here that willingly help answer them. Joining the SDC and a local chapter is an excellent thing to do. The local chapter in your area is the Badger Wheels chapter. I don't know the officers, but if you look up the chapter you will probably find out who to contact. Good luck with your new treasure! Bill

                Comment


                • #9
                  As for the coolant, for a few dollars you can purchase a coolant tester at your local auto supply store (or Walmart if you prefer). This will tell you the freeze point of your coolant.
                  Eventually you will need to clean-out your cooling system, but for now, just ensuring that it wont freeze solid is all you need to do.

                  sigpic
                  In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Ok so I know the heater core(s) SHOULD have fluid in them. But if all the hoses have been just laying on the ground for who knows how long, A:can I assume they’re empty enough to not worry about freezing, or B: how would I empty them without putting new hoses on?

                    Oh and the writing on the firewall, would this have been some factory thing, or maybe the Earl Scheib that painted this in the 70’s?
                    Attached Files
                    Proud new owner of a 56 Power Hawk!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      All you have to do to drain the Heater and Defroster Cores is; open the Temp. Control on the dash to "Hot", lower the 2 Heater Hoses from Under Seat Core to the ground into a Pan, so you don't harm the Environment or an Animal and catch any that might still be in there. Gravity should take care of draining them.
                      Since the Def. Hoses are gone, a little compressed Air in one should blow any remainder out.

                      The Number on the Firewall is an original Factory mark of the "Line Number" on the Final Assy. Line.
                      That is written on the Body before it reaches the Final Line to get the Correct Body onto the correct Frame.

                      Also any Body related "Options" that will be needed on the Body for it's particular Frame and Engine.

                      That proves that the Color on the Firewall IS the correct original Color of the Car.
                      There MAY still be a paper slip glued on the bottom of the Glovebox with the Brand and Color of the Paint.

                      Also, we are not able to tell what it is that we are "working on" here from this String, but I did figure it out from one of your Prior Strings, it's a '56 Power Hawk.
                      Last edited by StudeRich; 10-09-2020, 09:09 PM.
                      StudeRich
                      Second Generation Stude Driver,
                      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Duh, I keep forgetting to just look at the paperwork already have... the Production Order has the same number(s) as the car itself.
                        And I should update my forum settings with what car I’m working on, shouldn’t I?
                        Attached Files
                        Proud new owner of a 56 Power Hawk!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          "The only dumb question is the one not asked" Do not rely on the previous owners appraisal of the brakes. Drums are available as mentioned above, Studebaker brakes were good--if adequately maintained. I have a Turner system that I never installed because it would have required too much butchery of the car to install it, and I couldn't see how I'd check the fluid . Non-finned drums seem to indicate that they were replaced at some time with Lark-type drums (when finned replacement drums were not available. They are okay if good on the inside. Marvel Mystery Oil would be excellent to try to free the motor; do not be impatient . Let it set for 2 or 3 weeks. Just because you can not turn the motor over with the fan does not mean it is stuck. If you have a manual trans you can pull it (with spark plugs out!) and pop the clutch in 2nd gear. If it does not turn then, it is overhaul time. Use the same block; if you change engines the new engine wouldneed to be dial indicated to you bell housing. This is a tedious process requiring special eqiupment , experience, and lots of time. Looks like a very nice project car. You are wise enough to ask questions. Most of those who respond to forum queries are knowledgeable. Get a shop manual, a cassis parts catalog , and a body parts catalog. They are invaluable and available from Studebaker International as packages. Always remember that when you 'modify' an antique auto, you spend lots of money to detract from the value of the car. Don't put disc brakes on it. I've driven Studebakers for decades and never had a master cylinder fail or had a drum brake system fail. I have had several failures of disc brake systems and power brake boosters (which can be costly or fatal) Remember - KISS (there are alot of very savvy members in WI so ask them about any major repairs and what shops are reliable. I've had a number of parts ruined by machine shops.)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by rockne10 View Post
                            That looks like one of the springs for the hood hinge. Each corner should have two springs of differing lengths.
                            ]

                            Should I be concerned that there aren’t any (none, zero) springs on my hood hinges?


                            Proud new owner of a 56 Power Hawk!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I’ve got some light reading for when it’s slow this weekend at work.
                              Attached Files
                              Proud new owner of a 56 Power Hawk!

                              Comment

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