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Avanti 1963 Fuel Pump Continuously Clicking

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  • MartinHash
    replied
    To adjust door latch:
    1) Loosen female receiver just enough so that it will move with force.
    2) Shut door and push tight to latch or have someone push from the outside while you’re inside.
    3) With a big flat blade screwdriver, push the receiver outward as much as you can.
    4) Open door and tighten screws. The door will now click shut. Not as good as the passenger side that has less wear but good enough for a dopamine hit.

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  • studegary
    replied
    Originally posted by MartinHash View Post
    The passenger door of my 1963 Avanti closes with a soft, confident click, but I have to slam my driver’s door. Is there an adjustment I can make or do I have to replace the door latch?
    Either the latch or the door probably needs an adjustment assuming the car (torque boxes and frame) are in good shape.

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  • MartinHash
    replied
    The passenger door of my 1963 Avanti closes with a soft, confident click, but I have to slam my driver’s door. Is there an adjustment I can make or do I have to replace the door latch?

    Leave a comment:


  • MartinHash
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post

    You might be on the wrong String here, this one is about Electric Replacement Fuel Pumps on Avantis.

    The Distributor if that is what you mean, is a 2018 or 19 Chicom Replacement thing, and it is ALUMINUM! So not Huge numbers out there yet to know the Durability yet.

    Spark Plug WIRES are not Stainless Steel, you MAY be talking about the Standard on all original Avantis; Stainless Steel Ignition SHIELDING over the Dist. and the Plug Wires.

    They just allow the AM Radio to play without static in the Fiberglass Body.
    That thing’s original? Nice! The plastic model of the car I’m building doesn’t have it, and there’s an empty metal loop bolted to the top of the engine that looks like it’s supposed to be holding wires.

    And my alternator rebuild only cost $165! (From Studebaker International.) I like this car more-n-more. I even bought the “Archie” comic book that featured it, and put it in the glove compartment for passengers to read.

    p.s. I have a ‘58 Corvette and everything to do with it is 3-4X as expensive.

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Originally posted by MartinHash View Post
    My ‘63 has a stainless steel distributor & wire loom; how common was it for people to add these things? (I’m keeping mine on, it’s beautiful.)
    You might be on the wrong String here, this one is about Electric Replacement Fuel Pumps on Avantis.

    The Distributor if that is what you mean, is a 2018 or 19 Chicom Replacement thing, and it is ALUMINUM! So not Huge numbers out there yet to know the Durability yet.

    Spark Plug WIRES are not Stainless Steel, you MAY be talking about the Standard on all original Avantis; Stainless Steel Ignition SHIELDING over the Dist. and the Plug Wires.

    They just allow the AM Radio to play without static in the Fiberglass Body.

    Leave a comment:


  • MartinHash
    replied
    My ‘63 has a stainless steel distributor & wire loom; how common was it for people to add these things? (I’m keeping mine on, it’s beautiful.)

    Leave a comment:


  • Skip Lackie
    replied
    The kits sold by Fram, etc all included a restricted-diameter fitting, either straight or L-shaped, with instructions on where to put it in the system. They didn't plan on people restoring these cars 50-75 years later and replacing all the small parts.

    For many years, I had a 37 LaSalle (first year for hydraulic lifters). and replaced all the amateurish copper tubing on the AC partial flow oil filter. In doing so, I replaced the L-shaped restrictor with an ordinary straight fitting. The first time I started the engine to look for leaks, those lifters told me I had done something wrong.

    Leave a comment:


  • MartinHash
    replied
    Originally posted by Skip Lackie View Post
    Restricted hole diameter is about .045". HD won't have one; an old-timey FLAPS might. Easiest way to make one is to solder the hole shut in a fitting and then drill it out.
    I finally got my (original) Service manual, and it doesn’t mention anything about this. No wonder the last repair guy didn’t catch it. I only work on 1 thing running gear related at a time, and I’ve got the alternator in to Studebaker International for a rebuild, so I’ll be getting back to the fuel pump once that’s back in.

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  • MartinHash
    replied
    I bought all the crazy Avanti fuses, a dozen each, if anybody needs some. There must be somewhere easy to find these but I couldn’t; not even Studebaker International. I finally ended up getting a couple from here, a couple from there, and the rest someplace else.

    Leave a comment:


  • MartinHash
    replied
    Thx Skip.

    BTW, my mercury switch wasn’t working, and I thought, “This mercury’s been around for 300 million years, it’s doubtful it disintegrated now?” So I banged on the aluminum tube with a big screwdriver: nothing. Not to be dissuaded, I squirted some trustworthy WD-40 into the connector: nothing... But when I came back into the garage a half hour later, the trunk light was on, and the switch worked perfectly.

    Leave a comment:


  • Skip Lackie
    replied
    Restricted hole diameter is about .045". HD won't have one; an old-timey FLAPS might. Easiest way to make one is to solder the hole shut in a fitting and then drill it out.

    Leave a comment:


  • MartinHash
    replied
    I don’t have a service manual yet. What’s the part number on the restrictor, or can I buy a brass fitting at Home Depot that would work? What’s the hole diameter; I could make something work if I knew?

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Post #23 Here addresses a very similar issue with the Bi-Pass Oil Filter flow Restrictor Fitting on Pre 1962 Engines.

    https://forum.studebakerdriversclub....gh-filler-tube

    Leave a comment:


  • MartinHash
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    I would check to see if the Clock is connected and running or trying to, also the Glove Compartment and Trunk Lights may not be turning off properly.

    There are several possibilities with this Dual Pump setup.

    1. The Mechanical Pump could be "disabled", no actuator Lever.

    2. If it was installed for long storage cold starts, it should have had a toggle switch under the dash to turn it off for driving, Maybe there IS!

    You need to check for a 3 way "T" Fitting at the Output of the mechanical Pump that has a 5/6" Fuel Line going out to the Carb. and a 1/4" Line back to the Tank.
    A fitting on that Return line SHOULD have a very small Restrictor hole in it to prevent TOO much Fuel from returning to the Tank.

    I could see how someone might think it needed an additional Electric Pump if that Fitting were missing! .

    Does this R2/R3 Pump have the Supercharger "Reference" line (Pressure Equalizer) connected from the Top of the Pump (above the Diaphragm) to the Paxton?
    The amp leakage was the driver’s door dome light switch.

    The reference line IS connected to the supercharger.

    However, there does not seem to be a restrictor in the return line; just a rubber hose to the brass t nipple. What do I do there?

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  • MartinHash
    replied
    Originally posted by studegary View Post

    Items other than the dome light go through that fuse originally (who knows what by now), such as the brake lights (IIRC).
    Thx, got it. Except for sharing a common, that fuse seems exclusively to be the 4 dome lights & 4 associated switches.

    Leave a comment:

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