Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

Avanti 1963 Fuel Pump Continuously Clicking

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Fuel System: Avanti 1963 Fuel Pump Continuously Clicking

    The fast clicking sound of the fuel pump is continuous when the ignition is on. Isn’t it supposed to stop when the bowl is full?

  • #2
    If you are talking about a electric pump it will keep running when the ignition is on . That is normal

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks. I wish the windows would roll up on the Accessories position. What’s fuel pump life if it’s on all the time?

      Comment


      • #4
        That would certainly depend on what Type and what Brand of Electric Pump someone added to your Car.

        Most Avantis have the Correct Original Type Mechanical Carter "Super" Pump.
        Usually due to the Cool Fuel Recirculate/Return System to the Tank often times not being compatible with an Electric, and mainly depending on WHERE it is mounted and How it is plumbed.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi ,You could wire the pump correctly by installing a oil pressure safety switch , That way when the engine is not running the pump wont run , Ed

          Comment


          • #6
            Why would the electric have been installed? I’d like to try and change back to mechanical if possible.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by MartinHash View Post
              Why would the electric have been installed? I’d like to try and change back to mechanical if possible.
              There are several reasons that owners install electric fuel pumps: 1) Reduce cranking time, 2) It's the latest technology, etc. First, do you have a block-off plate where the mechanical pump would be on the front driver's side of the engine, or is there a pump there? Second, Do you have an R1 or R2 engine? The fuel pumps are different. Beware of the replacement Airtex pumps. Try to find an original pump (if yours is missing). And, a used one should be rebuilt. I just rebuilt one and the old diaphragm was pretty hard; It wouldn't have lasted long if put back in service.
              --Dwight

              Comment


              • #8
                There appears to be both, and the mechanical looks relatively new. What do you think’s up?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Plus, I have a .89 amp draw through the “dome” fuse with the car off and doors closed.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    BTW, it’s an R2, R2564, and the mechanical fuel pump has R-3, R-2 written on it with magic marker.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by MartinHash View Post
                      Plus, I have a .89 amp draw through the “dome” fuse with the car off and doors closed.
                      Items other than the dome light go through that fuse originally (who knows what by now), such as the brake lights (IIRC).
                      Gary L.
                      Wappinger, NY

                      SDC member since 1968
                      Studebaker enthusiast much longer

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I would check to see if the Clock is connected and running or trying to, also the Glove Compartment and Trunk Lights may not be turning off properly.

                        There are several possibilities with this Dual Pump setup.

                        1. The Mechanical Pump could be "disabled", no actuator Lever.

                        2. If it was installed for long storage cold starts, it should have had a toggle switch under the dash to turn it off for driving, Maybe there IS!

                        You need to check for a 3 way "T" Fitting at the Output of the mechanical Pump that has a 5/6" Fuel Line going out to the Carb. and a 1/4" Line back to the Tank.
                        A fitting on that Return line SHOULD have a very small Restrictor hole in it to prevent TOO much Fuel from returning to the Tank.

                        I could see how someone might think it needed an additional Electric Pump if that Fitting were missing! .

                        Does this R2/R3 Pump have the Supercharger "Reference" line (Pressure Equalizer) connected from the Top of the Pump (above the Diaphragm) to the Paxton?
                        Last edited by StudeRich; 10-06-2020, 01:48 PM.
                        StudeRich
                        Second Generation Stude Driver,
                        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by studegary View Post

                          Items other than the dome light go through that fuse originally (who knows what by now), such as the brake lights (IIRC).
                          Thx, got it. Except for sharing a common, that fuse seems exclusively to be the 4 dome lights & 4 associated switches.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                            I would check to see if the Clock is connected and running or trying to, also the Glove Compartment and Trunk Lights may not be turning off properly.

                            There are several possibilities with this Dual Pump setup.

                            1. The Mechanical Pump could be "disabled", no actuator Lever.

                            2. If it was installed for long storage cold starts, it should have had a toggle switch under the dash to turn it off for driving, Maybe there IS!

                            You need to check for a 3 way "T" Fitting at the Output of the mechanical Pump that has a 5/6" Fuel Line going out to the Carb. and a 1/4" Line back to the Tank.
                            A fitting on that Return line SHOULD have a very small Restrictor hole in it to prevent TOO much Fuel from returning to the Tank.

                            I could see how someone might think it needed an additional Electric Pump if that Fitting were missing! .

                            Does this R2/R3 Pump have the Supercharger "Reference" line (Pressure Equalizer) connected from the Top of the Pump (above the Diaphragm) to the Paxton?
                            The amp leakage was the driver’s door dome light switch.

                            The reference line IS connected to the supercharger.

                            However, there does not seem to be a restrictor in the return line; just a rubber hose to the brass t nipple. What do I do there?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Post #23 Here addresses a very similar issue with the Bi-Pass Oil Filter flow Restrictor Fitting on Pre 1962 Engines.

                              https://forum.studebakerdriversclub....gh-filler-tube
                              StudeRich
                              Second Generation Stude Driver,
                              Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X