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1950 commander starter switch

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  • Electrical: 1950 commander starter switch

    I am new to the forum and 1950 of my problems is the starter switch under the clutch pedal worked, but found out I had a bad solenoid.I replaced it now the starter switch want work. no voltage to the single wire that hook to it. Am I missing something? My second problem is wheel seals for the rear wheels.

  • #2
    That starter switch works by grounding the solenoid terminal so there will not be any voltage there. It makes a ground and the solenoid fires. You will need to get the correct flavor of solenoid. Most of the vendors should have the rear wheel seals.


    • #3
      Thanks Ross I will get another solenoid. Who are these vendors? I have had this car about a week,and do not know vendor sites. Thanks .


      • #4

        This is a great reference to have...

        Also, welcome to the forum - another great resource.
        Last edited by DTHolder; 10-04-2020, 06:55 PM.
        DT Holder - Bakersfield CA, USA
        1950 Commander ("Resto-Mod" in progress)


        • #5
          1950 Commander is a great car. I've had mine for 47 years.

          What is the number under the hood, on the firewall, on the passenger side (to the left as you look under the hood)?

          That will tell us what model and level of fanciness.

          It will start with 17A.
          RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

          17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
          10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
          10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
          4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
          5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
          56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
          60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible


          • #6
            Hey, Bob, and welcome to our Studebaker world! Tell us a little bit more about how you have come to be concerned about the rear seals? Since we don't really know your Studebaker experience and mechanical knowledge, there are a few things to cover regarding these cars that may not apply to other makes. One is about the rear outer axle bearings. They are not lubricated with the differential gear lube. Instead, there is a small pipe plug at the outer axle tube that has to be removed and a zerk fitting temporarily installed for greasing. I don't have my manual handy to give the mileage interval for rear axle bearing greasing, but all that information is available.

            The reason I wanted to point this out is that signs of what may appear to be rear seal leaks at the wheels could be confused with brake fluid leaks coming from the wheel cylinders or someone over lubricating the rear wheel bearings. On the axle tubes, there is a very tiny weep hole that needs to be cleared when pumping bearing grease to the wheel bearings. Over-lubricating could cause grease to push out beyond the seals. If you are already up to speed on how this all works, I apologize for appearing condescending. But, we often see folks new to Studebaker have difficulty with such things as the appropriate wheel puller for tapered axles, the left-handed threads on the left side wheel studs, rear axle bearings, and how to adjust the brakes.

            All the information is available from vendors selling the shop, body, and chassis manuals for your car. Again, welcome to our group, join the SDC, a local chapter, and post some pictures when you can.
            John Clary
            Greer, SC

            SDC member since 1975


            • #7
              Thanks for the info John, I am new to studebakers. The car comes from Washington state. The man and woman were pilots and owned a air strip next to my farm. She told me she drove the car to Texas. It shows to have 17920 miles on the odometer. The last time it was registered was 2004. That was the year they come to Texas. The lady is the original owner. They both passed away and I bough the car from the estate. It sat out in front of their hanger for 16 years. Shows surface rust but solid. Good to know about the rear wheels. No brakes! replacing all wheel cylinders and master.


              • #8
                Good for you, Bob, that you want to keep and drive the Commander! You've got what I feel is the quintessential Stude of the '50s, recognizable from miles away. :-)
                Once you get her in shape, drive her as often as you can!