Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

Connecting rod orientation

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Engine: Connecting rod orientation

    I’m putting a 185 out of a 55 Champion into my 1950 Starlight Coupe. Since the car that I took the engine from wasn’t running; before I go to the trouble of making the swap, I’m going through the engine. It has ,060 over pistons and the cylinders showed no taper when checked..I’m just going to give the cylinder walls a light hone and replace the rings. The main and rod bearings look like new and they’re .020 oversized. I checked them with plasti-gage and the checked at .0015 to .002” on every journal. I’m sending the block out to have induction hardened valves and seats installed. My question is : When I took the oil pan off, I noticed the numbers stamped on the rod caps were not all facing one side of the engine or the other. Some of them faced opposite of the others. They were on the proper journals. Also, the pistons are stamped “60 “. Is there a mark that denotes which side points forward? Thanks for your help.

  • #2

    To properly assemble the Rods to the Pistons you need to follow the Shop Manual procedure, I would not trust someone else's assembly.

    From the '55 to '58 Shop Manual:

    "To identify an Even Rod from a Odd one; place the Oil hole in the Lower end of the Rod Toward you, the Narrow portion of the Rod Offset will be on your Right on Odd Rods, and on your Left on Even Rods."
    Even Rods are NOT interchangeable with Odd Numbered Rods.

    If you have Original Style "T" Slotted Pistons, the T Slot goes opposite of the Oil Hole, the Oil squirt hole and Number should be on the Solid Skirt Side of the Piston.

    Figure #52 Shows the Rod Numbers ALL facing the same side of the Block, the RIGHT Side (Oil Pump Side).

    I doubt Replacement Pistons would have T Slots anymore so this may or may not not the best way to check them nowadays. Also probably no Notch in the Piston Head that usually goes Forward.

    While it is down, also check that they timed the Distributor # 1 firing to the Oil Pump Drive Gear on assembly.
    If not, the Distributor vacuum advance will hit the Generator when the Cap is wired in the correct standard rotation/orientation.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 09-15-2020, 08:31 PM.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

    Comment

    Working...
    X