Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

running rich

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • doofus
    replied
    Ron, 2 things you need to know. 1 vacuum at road speed, 2 vacuum reading when power valve is supposed to open. i have no idea where to find the second but if they are close you are driving around with the carb at "Full Rich"! the metering rod is strictly mechanical but the power valve is vacuum controlled. Luck Doofus

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron Dame
    replied
    Jack and I have been discussing this issue. Based on the cam card, it's ground like an R2 1/2 or R3. That does explain a lot.
    I also need a new, reliable vacuum gauge, mine showed 18" at idle, and steady (It's 40-45 years old, and cheap then) and two newer gauges, one from a friend and one from Advance Auto show 11"-12" and a vibrating needle. So does the S-W aircraft manifold gauge I am planning to install in the truck. Everything else checks out: ignition, compression, vacuum leaks, etc.

    Leave a comment:


  • skyway
    replied
    Yes, in a truck you would not have the issue of over stressing a T-96, or a weak rear end.

    Leave a comment:


  • doofus
    replied
    Skyway has a good idea, an adapter and a 2 bbl carb for test purposes. might sow up some problems or solutions. if you want to try modifying a stock manifold i have a left over set you are welcome to , PM me for details. Luck Doofus

    Leave a comment:


  • skyway
    replied
    Friend of mine built two OHV 185’s; one in a ‘54 Champion 4dr, & the other in a hot rod ‘49 business coupe. Stock engines but for the crank & pistons. Both were noticeably strong & quick, and with a 2 bbl carb & driven hard, were too much for first gear in a T-96. Spend a lot of time looking for the elusive “taxi cab” bell housing so’s to run a T-86 & 2 bbl carb but never found one.
    Last edited by skyway; 09-14-2020, 11:03 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron Dame
    replied
    Originally posted by christophe View Post

    Just google vacuum gauge reading chart and you'll get all the info needed. A shaky needdle at idle is usually the sign of a bad mixture adjustment.
    I know I have somewhere the formula used for determining the size of a right carb for a given engine. I'll try fo find this one for you.
    Nice day to all.
    It's alos common with a lot of overlap. I've checked for vacuum leaks and all. From people like Jack Vines, I'm leaning towards cam, which creates low vacuum, and thus the mixture is off

    Leave a comment:


  • doofus
    replied
    Ron, just because that AS has been "Kitted" dont mean it's right! they can be a handfull at times. go back and check the carb, look for a hung power valve or loose main jet. i have had stranger things happen! i used a holley 1 bbl from an OHC jeep on my 60 170 eons ago, had to make it fit but it worked great. keep at it and let us hear from you. Luck Doofus

    Leave a comment:


  • christophe
    replied
    Originally posted by Ron Dame View Post

    I too am an over-thinker. I just wonder if I'd be happier overall with a milder or stock cam.
    I borrowed a good quality vacuum gauge ( instead of my40+ year old unknown gauge) and there is definite needle shake at idle which I did not see with my old cheapy. Best as I recall, this is due to a long duration cam.
    Just google vacuum gauge reading chart and you'll get all the info needed. A shaky needdle at idle is usually the sign of a bad mixture adjustment.
    I know I have somewhere the formula used for determining the size of a right carb for a given engine. I'll try fo find this one for you.
    Nice day to all.

    Leave a comment:


  • jclary
    replied
    Knowledge wise, I feel I'm the least qualified to comment in this conversation. Much of the data quoted, and acronyms used, are over my head. But, in my humble opinion, not thinking is boring, thinking is good, and over-thinking is an adventure.

    I believe Ron came to us with a genuine request for opinions and he has surely received them. For me, not being a trained engineer, the process of overthinking is a very short trip. But, it has been very entertaining since it does not involve my money, time, or the emotional anxiety that comes from the disappointing performance of my efforts.

    So far, what sticks in my mind is that we have varying opinions regarding how to address the performance issues. Mainly, fuel/air ratio (delivery), and timing (cam/ignition). Some of the suggestions are more time consuming and costly than others. So, what's the best approach to organize and develop a progression of remedies? Mine would be the easiest first. Either a different carburetor or different jets in the one currently mounted.

    Next would be to experiment with the points gap/dwell angel, and if those fail, then off with the valve covers, to the valve adjusters, and lastly, changing out the cam. The real difficult part of the various exercises is that good notes and patience would be required because every one of these items are interrelated. Changing one of the settings will probably require tweaking others. Thinking about it is an adventure for me...Ron, you will have to define it for yourself, but I thank you for the opportunity to ponder it with you.

    Leave a comment:


  • PackardV8
    replied
    Originally posted by tootie View Post
    Overthink I think also , go back to basics and look and find what was missed .
    Agree completely, when it's a stock engine. This is a custom build with longer stroke, higher compression, much longer cam timing, different carburetor. The baseline is not as clear with that mix of parts.

    jack vines

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron Dame
    replied
    Originally posted by tootie View Post
    Overthink I think also , go back to basics and look and find what was missed .
    I too am an over-thinker. I just wonder if I'd be happier overall with a milder or stock cam.
    I borrowed a good quality vacuum gauge ( instead of my40+ year old unknown gauge) and there is definite needle shake at idle which I did not see with my old cheapy. Best as I recall, this is due to a long duration cam.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron Dame
    replied
    Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
    Ron, if I weren't already a year behind taking on any new projects, this would be an ideal test bed for something I've always wanted to try on an engine just like yours:



    an individual runner intake manifold mounting three of the smaller SU carburetors. This could work because IR manifolds don't allow the cam overlap to pollute other cylinders and thus can tame a longer cam duration.

    jack vines
    I had visions of such a set-up at one time, but not the fabrication skills. And while an SU is easy to tune, their needle numbers make no sense at all. I would not know where to start.

    Leave a comment:


  • tootie
    replied
    Overthink I think also , go back to basics and look and find what was missed .

    Leave a comment:


  • tootie
    replied
    I will say that I am with Jeffrey Cassel on this . OVERTHINK is one of my self induced problems over the years , and I have trained myself to not go there anymore . And on a personal note , after installing and repairing the glorious Holley Sniper fuel injection here in Florida on small block Chevys , big block vintage Mopars , Ford Mustangs and Chevy Camaros , and Jeeps , I will tell you without a doubt that 3000.00 is the biggest waste of money you can make . Every Holley fuel injection conversion should come stock with a AAA membership so you will be able to get your car back home . I have seen some of the finest mechanics here in Tampa get there ass handed to them by brand new out of the box Holley fuel injection.And if you do not mind dealing with the Holley Tech Assistance , which is some of the absolute worst customer service I have ever experienced, you go right ahead . I am a dedicated points and condenser and carburetor guy and I fear no distributor and no carburetor out there . If you gave me a Holley Sniper for my Javelin , my Camaro , my Studebaker or pup truck I would have no problem throwing it in the trash . My cars run just fine as they were made 40-50-60 years ago . Good luck on all and please drive your cars !!

    Leave a comment:


  • jclary
    replied
    Well, Ron, after reading (and trying to comprehend) all the posts, I'm thinking it would be interesting to locate someone with a dyno so that you can do some true load testing on your engine and make adjustments from there. I suppose the first thing is to settle on a carburetor that is capable of supplying a consistent fuel/air ratio you can live with and then tinker with the timing. I wonder if you have a local tech school equipped with a dyno? It could be an interesting learning exercise for a class of young aspiring mechanics.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X