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Gauges Stay On When Key is Off

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  • Jeffry Cassel
    replied
    The most obvious answer is that the acc circuit is wired to the batt terminal either directly by error or by worn insulation on acc wire touching the batt lug . Barring that most likely scenario, replace the switch--look for a good used one one (thee repos are nothing to write home to mother about.)

    Leave a comment:


  • altair
    replied
    Disconnect the feed to the starter solenoid and see if that opens the unwanted circuit.

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  • radioadman1
    replied
    Originally posted by nvonada View Post
    Disconnect all the wires from the switch and check continuity with a multimeter. If there is not continuity with the switch off but you do have continuity with the switch on it can't be the switch and something is funky in the wiring.
    Thank you, I will do just that.

    Leave a comment:


  • radioadman1
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    Since I just helped a Forum Member fix his Stude. that would not shut down, and I suggested the Solenoid had internally shorted Power to the "I" Ignition terminal, and it did turn out to be the Solenoid, I have been trying to think how that could cause your problem.

    If that were the case though, with power back-feeding from the Solenoid, through the Coil terminal and back to the Ign, Sw. and to Accessories, Gauges, Turn Signals, Heater Fan etc. I can't figure a scenario where you are able to Start and Stop yours.

    Are you SURE no wires were moved, or otherwise "messed with" between when it worked fine and Now?
    Thanks for your thoughts here. No, there were no wires moved or disturbed by human hands from the last time I drove the car until I got in it to drive it two days later. That's when I discovered the battery was dead. My guess now is that the hot wire coming in from the starter solenoid to the ignition switch must be making contact with the wire feeding the accessory port, thus making all connections hot. But that's just a guess. It is indeed a huge mystery.

    Leave a comment:


  • nvonada
    replied
    Disconnect all the wires from the switch and check continuity with a multimeter. If there is not continuity with the switch off but you do have continuity with the switch on it can't be the switch and something is funky in the wiring.

    Leave a comment:


  • bensherb
    replied
    Originally posted by Harryhawk View Post
    Attention bensherb and sorry to others for side tracking this post. You have mentioned before the hinging of your front seat, wondering if you could do a little feature here on the forum about how you went about it, style and size of hinges etc etc and a photo or two. It's such a great idea. Cheers Harryhawk
    Next time I tilt the seat I'll take some pics, I checked and don't currently have any. Basically, I used a couple 1 1/2" gate hinges, bolted one side to the seat in the original mounting hole, then bolted the other side to the floor in the original hole. Don't remember off hand many details , but next time I have it tilted I'll take some pics and post what I did. I have to swap out the oil pressure gauge soon but am currently too busy to get to it.

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Since I just helped a Forum Member fix his Stude. that would not shut down, and I suggested the Solenoid had internally shorted Power to the "I" Ignition terminal, and it did turn out to be the Solenoid, I have been trying to think how that could cause your problem.

    If that were the case though, with power back-feeding from the Solenoid, through the Coil terminal and back to the Ign, Sw. and to Accessories, Gauges, Turn Signals, Heater Fan etc. I can't figure a scenario where you are able to Start and Stop yours.

    Are you SURE no wires were moved, or otherwise "messed with" between when it worked fine and Now?

    Leave a comment:


  • bensherb
    replied
    Did you check the function of the switch whith it disconnected from, the car? It still sounds like its not working correctly. There are not many other things that can affect so many different systems at the same time. I've dissmantled and cleaned switches internally to solve issues like this in the past.
    Last edited by bensherb; 09-01-2020, 10:21 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • gordr
    replied
    Did you check and see if the accessory circuit is still hot with the ignition switch removed? Could be maybe that a wire supplying power to one of the other gauges has chafed against a stud on the ammeter.

    Leave a comment:


  • radioadman1
    replied
    UPDATE: I have removed the ignition switch and have checked all of the wiring. All is in order with no shorts/wire crossing. I also disconnected each ignition switch lead to see if perhaps the switch itself might be bad. It appears fine. The problem still exists, so I'm open to other suggestions as the gauges, wipers, heater fan, radio and turn signals are still hot without the key on in either the acc or start position. Something is causing this...

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Originally posted by radioadman1 View Post

    Thanks. So what you're saying the problem I'm having with gauges, wipers, fan, radio, etc. operating with the key in the off position is a problem you've had as well? And the fix was removing the ignition switch and checking the wiring?
    I think what he is saying is; all you have to do is, check that the wire terminals have not spun and touched each other putting Power onto the "ACC"> (Accessories) Stud all the time! They COULD be loose.

    Leave a comment:


  • Son O Lark
    replied
    Be absolutely sure you have unhooked your battery before you begin to remove your switch!!!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Harryhawk
    replied
    Attention bensherb and sorry to others for side tracking this post. You have mentioned before the hinging of your front seat, wondering if you could do a little feature here on the forum about how you went about it, style and size of hinges etc etc and a photo or two. It's such a great idea. Cheers Harryhawk
    Last edited by Harryhawk; 09-01-2020, 07:34 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • radioadman1
    replied
    Originally posted by bensherb View Post

    I've had exactly the same experience as John, and also have always been able to restore the opperation of the switches. On the GT, the ignition switch is actually the easiest switch to remove. There is a small dash support bracket held in by a couple of screws at the corner of the dash, one screw at the bottom of the dash and one to the support behind the dash; once it is removed the switch is super easy, and the wires are usually long enough to do it easily too.

    I've been under my dash so many times and found it so painfull to do with the seat in place, and got so tired of removing and replacing it, that I actually mounted the rear of the seat on hinges. This way I just remove the two front bolts and tip the seat back against the rear seat. This gives room to easily access the under dash plus makes it WAY easier to line up the bolts to put the seat back, just tip it down and put the front bolts back in. I also don't need to find a place to put the seat when working under the dash.

    Even without removing the seat, the ignition switch is quite easy to remove on the GT, even with that small bracket in place, but it's easier to get back in with the bracket out.
    Thanks. So what you're saying the problem I'm having with gauges, wipers, fan, radio, etc. operating with the key in the off position is a problem you've had as well? And the fix was removing the ignition switch and checking the wiring?

    Leave a comment:


  • bensherb
    replied
    Originally posted by radioadman1 View Post

    Thanks. I have electronics cleaning spray, so I'll try that first. I don't relish the idea of having to remove that switch as it's on the far left hand side of the dash, and not easily accessed (as it would be on the right or somewhere close to the middle). It's also at a very tough angle for viewing as well... but, it is what it is. I appreciate your thoughts on this!
    I've had exactly the same experience as John, and also have always been able to restore the opperation of the switches. On the GT, the ignition switch is actually the easiest switch to remove. There is a small dash support bracket held in by a couple of screws at the corner of the dash, one screw at the bottom of the dash and one to the support behind the dash; once it is removed the switch is super easy, and the wires are usually long enough to do it easily too.

    I've been under my dash so many times and found it so painfull to do with the seat in place, and got so tired of removing and replacing it, that I actually mounted the rear of the seat on hinges. This way I just remove the two front bolts and tip the seat back against the rear seat. This gives room to easily access the under dash plus makes it WAY easier to line up the bolts to put the seat back, just tip it down and put the front bolts back in. I also don't need to find a place to put the seat when working under the dash.

    Even without removing the seat, the ignition switch is quite easy to remove on the GT, even with that small bracket in place, but it's easier to get back in with the bracket out.

    Leave a comment:

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