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Weight of 170ci long block

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  • Engine: Weight of 170ci long block

    With the scraping and cleaning in preparation for paint on this ‘59 Lark 170ci - 6 cylinder, I’m debating pulling it out with a trestle hoist and placing on an engine stand I have.

    The stand is a 750 pound capacity so I don’t think I need to be concerned, but I’m curious if anyone has a weight estimate on these engines? I’ll do the calcs on this trestle just to make sure I’m in a good working range.
    Thanks as always.

  • #2
    I wonderd the same some years ago & googled it & got a list of old engine weights, thou I don't remember now but the MoPar 318 I replaced the six with didn't lower the car as I can see.

    Champion V8
    4d sedan


    • #3
      Many years ago I restored a 2R5 PU. The frame and running gear were completed. Also, the engine was ready to install. A friend and I removed engine, less head, from stand and carried it over to frame and mounted it. No hoist needed!


      • #4
        I don't know, but when I put mine on my engine stand (No a high end one, but don't know the capacity) it held it OK. Kind of bouncy with all that weight further out than on a V8, but lighter than one too.
        Ron Dame
        '63 Champ


        • #5
          I did the rollback method with this homebullt wooden trestle on my 1950 Willys, but since it was a full restoration I had no qualms taking the front end off.

          On this Lark, everything is so original I’m not sure I want to do the same.

          May just do the conventional hood off, rolling cherry picker route.

          Thanks for the feedback all the same.


          • #6
            No worries. At probably 350#, the Champion long block is the lightest engine that stand will ever see, unless one gets into the midget import 4-cyls.

            jack vines


            • #7
              170 Champion Engine Weight:



              • #8
                Originally posted by ChampionRuss View Post
                Thanks for forwarding this link. ~460# for the entire engine, clutch and trans.


                • #9
                  Sorry folks - last post from me on this topic (I hope). Considering how the “radiator grille panel” comes off so simply on the Lark, I think I will choose the “lift the engine and roll the chassis” backwards route. Five screws each side, four along the top and the bumper as an assembly is a nice feature Studebaker built into this design.

                  Question on hoisting the 170. The factory service manual mentions installing a lifting plate (lug) under the central #1 cylinder head bolt, it says nothing about a rear lifting location.

                  Where have others installed their lugs at the rear of the engine head? I’d like to use my leveler, so has anyone simply slid a board and chain under the block with the oil pan off, etc?

                  Curious what’s been done out there.


                  • #10
                    I used head bolts and a leveller. I used some angle iron to spread the load and keep the head bolts clamped. Picture here: I pulled the engine out with the fenders and grille in place but I did take the tranny off first since it was easy.

                    My stand is the three-wheel style and really is designed for a smallblock V8 or V6. Between the inline 6 and the bellhousing the length made the stand dangerously unstable. After a near catastrophe I u-bolted a 2x4 to the front of the stand so it could not tip over.
                    Click image for larger version

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                    Lots of pictures on my web site of the engine coming out, getting cleaned, and going back in.




                    • #11
                      Great levels of detail here, Nathan. Many thanks.

                      I too have a 750# 3-wheel design engine stand which I’ve used for engine pulls on a ‘60 Hillman Minx a ‘50 Willys (both in-line 4’s) and may instead make a custom 2” x 6” frame on-edge to match the oil pan machined surface, given where the center of mass will end up. This will sit on a HD dolly cart I use for all sorts of reasons.

                      Won’t be taking the trans or the bellhousing, out with it, though.

                      Pic shows duplex- 2x4 trestle getting into place - gusset pieces that fit at 45 degrees between verticals and main beam (also duplex 2x4) not yet in place. 1 ton chain hoist clips into massive eye bolt. Lots of chain-fall can bring the engine down to the floor.


                      • #12
                        Studebaker’s use of the center-mounted, cross-membered bell crank pivot was very clever, but boy the clearance to the oil pan is tight on the 170-6 in the Lark.

                        To remove the oil pan, Studebaker required us to remove the “reach rod” and tie rod ends from the bell crank, remove the bolt that pinches the crank to the pin, and then slip the crank off the pivot.

                        (Never used a “pickle fork” before but it may be the best $10 I’ve spent. Rod ends came off easily.)

                        My question comes to how Studebaker expected the crank to slip upwards off the pin?? It strikes the pan before it clears the pin (maybe 10% left to go).

                        Anybody else had this occur when removing the pan, or prepping to remove the engine?

                        I should have a workaround when the engine starts to come off the mounts because I’ve removed 16 out of 18 pan bolts and can slip the pan off then (since the bell crank has been rotated out of the way so the engine can come forward). I’m just curious if I’m doing something incorrect?

                        Attached Files


                        • #13
                          Are your motor mount collapsed? That might be your 10%. I would consider loosening the mounts, jacking the engine up a bit using a padded block under the oil pan, then getting the bellcrank out of there.


                          • #14
                            They could likely be. Can’t tell if they’ve ever been replaced.

                            Might give that a try – good idea.


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by NCDave51 View Post
                              They could likely be. Can’t tell if they’ve ever been replaced.

                              Might give that a try – good idea.
                              Yep, that was the 10% I was missing. Jacked it up at the curve (strongest) part of the pan and the bell crank was freed.

                              I estimate maybe a good 1/2” was needed, though. Find it hard to believe the mounts would have lost that much.

                              New ones are being ordered along with all the other refreshment parts, from SI.