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Rusted nuts

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  • Other: Rusted nuts

    I’m changing out the exhaust on the ‘52 Champion. My original plan was to use a nut splitter to break the nuts holing the down pipe to the manifold. The plan was to save the studs. My nut splitter won’t fit, so I soaked them down with PB Blaster for now. Are there any new techniques for removing them without damaging the studs?
    thanks much
    Brian

  • #2
    A 50/50% solution of acetone and atf works a little better than pb blaster but a little more flammable , Or you could use Heat , Regardless have a fire extinquiser handy as the pipe is also close to the fuel pump. Good luck Ed

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    • #3
      This is one of those iffys. If it has brass nuts, which should be stock. The brass won't do too much damage to the threads. If some bonehead in the past used steel nuts or stainless nuts that galled going on, all bets are off.

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      • #4
        Brass is stock?!? How cool is that?!? There is a very good chance these are original. I feel a bit better now! 😀

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        • #5
          If normal methods fail, try one of these. 1. Use a zip disc in a die grinder to cut through the nut on a plane parallel to the axis of the stud. If you skim the threads of the stud, you won't materially weaken it. With the nut so cut, a couple of taps with a hammer and cold chisel will knock it off.
          2. Using a 1/8" drill bit, drill two holes in one flat of the nut stopping when you hit steel. Use a hammer and cold chisel to split the thin webs of metal remaining, and the nut should fall off.
          In either case, once the pipe flange is down, run a die over the studs to clean up the threads.
          Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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          • #6
            Kroil kreen oil loosened the exhaust flange nuts on my 53 in less than half hour

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            • #7
              I've successfully used a hacksaw watching the threads. Finish off with a die and new soft nuts. Careful...

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              • #8
                You can cut the nut 3/4 through when you put it on, helps for next time.

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                • #9
                  How about heating the nuts up (if they aren't brass) with a fire wrench?...

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                  • #10

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                    • #11
                      Looks like your technique worked, whatever it was ? Threads OK ?

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                      • #12
                        Found a smaller nut splitter. Worked great on the brass. This was the nut by the oil pump. The orientation of the other nut does not permit the splitter. May hit it with a grinder. I don’t believe any threads have been injured 😁 Thanks for your support.

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                        • #13
                          Huge fan of Kroil.
                          Mike
                          Fort Worth, TX


                          1964 Avanti R2 #R-4986

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                          • #14
                            It's probably best to remove the manifold (that is not so easy one a '6' and replace the studs. It is not unusual to work and work at removing the nut and have the stud snap off when attaching the new exh. pipe. They get brittle from the heat, (Kroil is good but very hard to find[Amazon?])

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                            • #15
                              I am a big fan of Kroil also. I get mine from Kano Labs, Memphis Tenn.

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