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Wiring Harness for a 1951 Bus. Coupe

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  • Wiring Harness for a 1951 Bus. Coupe

    Hey guy's. My motor is just about done. I am putting in a full flow 259 motor that I got from Bob Peterson. Since I had one, this car will have a 350 turbo automatic. Later on I plan to put a 200r4 transmission. I just want to get it on the road. Now, I have been looking at wiring harness from EZ wiring. I plan to put AC, and change to 12 volt system. Are there other companies out there other than EZ wiring that I can look at. I have been looking at Item:EZ#21. Can some of you give me advise on this matter. Roy P.S. I am converting this car to a 1951 Commander.

  • #2
    I bought a new harness for my 51 Bus. Coupe from the Thoms brothers from Studebakers West in CA and was very pleased with quality and fit.

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    • #3
      I don't think you will ever use 21 circuits unless you have power windows, door locks, electric fans and fuel pump, a/c, etc, etc,. They have a 12 circuit harness also that is probably also overkill. The harness I got for the Ute is 8 circuits, and I'll have some spares.

      You may find you like the TH350. No OD, but if you have a 3.31 axle or higher ratio (lower numerically), you probably will never be able to justify the OD in fuel savings. Also, the TH350 doesn't need the fussy TV cable that, if adjusted wrong, will burn up a TH700 or 200 in a hurry (they do have a kick down cable however). A TH700 will not mount where a TH350 mounts but I believe a TH2004R will.

      Dick Steinkamp
      Bellingham, WA

      [IMG][/IMG]

      Dick Steinkamp
      Bellingham, WA

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      • #4
        Thanks Dick, Since the 1951 Business Coupe is an original automatic, I think that the rear end will do just fine. Thanks for the information.

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        • #5
          I have used both Ron Francis and Hot Rod wire in the past. They take two totally different approaches. Hot Rod wire uses a 70's GM type fuse box and you run the wires and make up the engine and light ends ends. The fuse box will go somewhere on the firewall. Ron Francis uses a remote box that can be put anywhere and the wires are made up on the engine and light side and you cut and connect to the fuse pannel. I have had good luck with both. It really depends what you need. Good Luck! Both gave excellent service in solving my questions.

          1956 Studebaker Pelham Wagon Houston, Texas
          Remember, \"When all is said and done. More is always said then ever done.\"

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          • #6
            What does this mean Ken? On a custom "hot rod" type do it yourself harness, do you not cut, lug and finish ALL of the wires, both Engine side AND Dash side? I don't see how it matters where you put the fusebox!

            Roy; it really does not seem to matter anyway, because it would be easier to slightly modify a stock '51 Commander harness for the A/C which involves one added power wire. You can add a fusible link or main fuse to the main power wire. The 12V will work better with one or two gauge heavier gauge wire than needed, and all of the dash lengths will be close to the Champion dash, or perfect if you use a Commander dash and engine lengths will fit like a glove! [^]

            quote:Originally posted by KGlowacky

            I have used both Ron Francis and Hot Rod wire in the past. They take two totally different approaches. Hot Rod wire uses a 70's GM type fuse box and you run the wires and make up the engine and light ends ends. The fuse box will go somewhere on the firewall. Ron Francis uses a remote box that can be put anywhere and the wires are made up on the engine and light side and you cut and connect to the fuse pannel. I have had good luck with both. It really depends what you need. Good Luck! Both gave excellent service in solving my questions.

            StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

            Comment


            • #7
              Posted - 12/11/2007 : 4:48:08 PM
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              Posted - 12/10/2007 : 5:34:01 PM
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              http://www.itsasnapwireandcable.com/
              http://www.ronfrancis.com/
              http://www.painlessperformance.com/
              http://www.ezwiring.com/ (I'm using this at about $200. for the whole car)
              http://hotronicsproducts.com/
              http://www.haywireinc.com/ (an excellent site for explanation and photos)
              There are many ads and articles in the magazines of: National Street Rod Association (NSRA) and Goodguys for wiring/.
              BRAD

              Be sure to ask each company the length of wire they send in their harness kit. It is usually more than ample, However if you buy a made ready harness you get the wire you get. Most companies send plenty of wire and you cut to length which means you don't have to fight short wires in installation and repairs down the road.

              --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

              Some info. to consider.................BRAD

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              • #8
                Yes on a after market harness, Ron Franics makes up all engine and light ends (based on your car)and you make up the fuse box ends (which is a wire connector crimped to the end of the wire you ran and cut where ever you put your fuse box). The other , all wires are custom formed into a fuse box just like GM/Ford and you make up the engine and light ends only. They send you the ends based on your car.

                1956 Studebaker Pelham Wagon Houston, Texas
                Remember, \"When all is said and done. More is always said then ever done.\"

                Comment


                • #9
                  I bought painless 12 circuit panel,for 51, only I found many of the crimps very poor behind fuse box, where wires go into brass ends and some terminals not pushed in far enough to click, box all mounted and finished when I put fuses in it, it pushed terminals out the back when you push in fuses . Kind of junky stuff for that much money. I soldered all of it.

                  Also crazy logic, electric fuel pump lead wired to be hot all the time, no mention of oil pressure switch or something to turn it off when engine stops; hazard! You can get a switch that closes w oil pressure, NAPA , opposite of red light switches, used to ground (added) 30A fuel pump relay.

                  Not impressed...

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                  • #10
                    StudeRich, I do plan to use a 1951 Commander Dash. It would be a lot simpler to using StudeWest wiring harness. I plan on using a 12 Volt 10SI alternator. I want to use a 3 wire instead of single wire. How would I wire?

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                    • #11
                      tomnoller, Can you tell me about your project: 1951 Bus. coupe. What did you have to do? Did you change over to 12 volts.

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                      • #12
                        I am sure that it makes a big difference if you are using an ampmeter or a voltmeter, or an idiot light. But other than that I do not know, since I have no idea what a 10SI is, I must be the wrong person to ask! I am sure it is something non-Stude. and I do not go to that Planet!

                        You may want to see Anne's excellent Alternator wiring post!

                        quote:Originally posted by royvaldez

                        StudeRich,/Cut/ I plan on using a 12 Volt 10SI alternator. I want to use a 3 wire instead of single wire. How would I wire?

                        StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA
                        StudeRich
                        Second Generation Stude Driver,
                        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          That post is instructions to cut regulator out to check alt. output. The link below should make wiring clear.
                          http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm

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                          • #14
                            I used its a snap 21 circuit in my project. Wires were a lot longer than I needed and were marked about every 6 inches. Some circuits I didn't need ,and other odd ball stuff I added, needed circuits not provided, But over all I had enought circuits and was very pleased with my kit. Should state that I bought my kit before wiring went out of sight, so length given could have changed. A few circuits I did't need now, just removed fuses and rolled up wire for future use if needed.

                            Randy Wilkin
                            1946 M5 Streetrod
                            Hillsboro,Ohio 45133
                            Randy Wilkin
                            1946 M5 Streetrod
                            Hillsboro,Ohio 45133

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                            • #15
                              Just got back from Studebaker West. They are going to make me a wiring harness that will use the 3 wire alternator. I guess they have done before. Thanks

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