Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

Shell Rotella Diesel oil

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Engine: Shell Rotella Diesel oil

    Hi everyone, Last year I switched to Shell Rotella Diesel oil. I have had great success as the engine temp has dropped. I am using 10/30 weight. I am thinking of going to 10/40 has anyone done that? The reason is I have a slow engine leak and thought it may slow that down? Amagine a Stude engine with an oil leak!!!
    1960 Lark VIII Convertibe
    1964 Daytona *
    1956 Stude PU *
    1951 Stude PU *
    1963 Lark *
    1960 Lark Regal 4 door *
    *= previously owned.

  • #2
    You DO know that the Diesel Oils are not what they used to be either right?
    The ZDDP was greatly reduced a few years ago and the rating number changed on Rotella, Chevron and all Diesel Oils, not C4 anymore.

    When I used to buy it before the change, they only had 15W 50.

    More viscosity will not noticeably change the Leaking, only the Burning past the Valve Guides and Rings.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

    Comment


    • #3
      The only weight Rotella-T I've ever used is 15/40. Good stuff.
      After rebuilding my 289 the oil pressure got pegged, and dropped to 35 psi at hot idle. That one I did change to 10/30 with happy results.
      "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

      Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

      Comment


      • #4
        Rich, What is your recommendation on the oil I should use? I have 10,000 miles on the engine. Thanks
        1960 Lark VIII Convertibe
        1964 Daytona *
        1956 Stude PU *
        1951 Stude PU *
        1963 Lark *
        1960 Lark Regal 4 door *
        *= previously owned.

        Comment


        • #5
          Shell Rotella T 15W40 has 1250 ppm ZDDP. They actually bumped it up from 1200 ppm about 2 years ago.

          Comment


          • #6
            What HE said ^^^^^^. I use it for the ZDDP...

            Comment


            • #7
              I'd probably choose one of the multi-vehicle Rotellas rather than a straight Diesel recipe. In part because of the cool country cassette tapes they offered as a green-stamp like premiums to truckers "a few" decades back.

              https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/prod...blend-oil.html

              With the options of T1, 4, 5, and 6, saying just "Rotella" is definitely unfinished and possibly even risky business.

              Similar to singing the praises of "Hylomar."
              http://hylomar.com/hylomar-product-range/

              Comment


              • #8
                I used Shell Rotella and Chevron Delo 15W-40 in my engines for years, but formulations for both oils have changed with the advent of the CK4 rating. The phosphorus and zinc levels have been considerably reduced which may or may not cause problems. The Rotella T4 and T5 oils no longer have ratings for gasoline engines so whether they are safe for use in gasoline engines is a question best answered by speaking with a Shell technical representative. I still have a stash of the older CJ4-SM rated Rotella and Chevron 15W-40 oil, but when that is gone I'll use Valvoline VR1 racing oil even though it is more expensive as I don't necessarily trust the new CK4 rated oils in my engines. Bud

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Bud View Post
                  I used Shell Rotella and Chevron Delo 15W-40 in my engines for years, but formulations for both oils have changed with the advent of the CK4 rating. The phosphorus and zinc levels have been considerably reduced which may or may not cause problems. The Rotella T4 and T5 oils no longer have ratings for gasoline engines so whether they are safe for use in gasoline engines is a question best answered by speaking with a Shell technical representative. I still have a stash of the older CJ4-SM rated Rotella and Chevron 15W-40 oil, but when that is gone I'll use Valvoline VR1 racing oil even though it is more expensive as I don't necessarily trust the new CK4 rated oils in my engines. Bud
                  I agree with Bud.
                  james r pepper

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    If you want a LOT of info on oil for older cars read this: https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf

                    While it relates to the Corvair in particular is is pertinent to any 60's car. In a nut shell his research shows that the ZDDP levels in the 60's was far lower than people think today. Those levels seemed to increase in the 70's... until the advent of the catalytic converter. There is also a trade off with additives and what you gain in one area you have issues in others. In the end his recommendations are not far off from the general consensus amounts classic car owners but by reading the article one becomes much better informed to make a choice.
                    '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by yoyoman View Post
                      Rich, What is your recommendation on the oil I should use? I have 10,000 miles on the engine. Thanks
                      Use what "Most" of us use: the Valvoline VR-1 Racing, in 10W30 Most Climates, or 20W50 or 30 Wt. Warmer Climates (or Summer).

                      The Break-in WAS the most important to use this.
                      StudeRich
                      Second Generation Stude Driver,
                      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        If in doubt use an oil like Valvoline VR1, Amsoil or Brad Penn. Both Amsoil and Brad Penn produce oils aimed at the classic car market. It is true that oils produced several decades ago didn't have the additives in use today, but I do remember with my Studebaker engines years ago, valve adjustments were part of regular maintenance, but with the more modern oils containing more ZDDP, I haven't adjusted the valves in years either on my 62 Hawk or 63 Avanti. That being said, it is up to the individual car owner to make the decision on what to use. Bud

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Does anyone here have any experience with Schaeffer oils? I know they make a lot of products for farm machinery.
                          Mike Davis
                          Regional Manager, North Carolina
                          1964 Champ 8E7-122 "Stuey"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Schaeffer’s has the most amazing product line but it seems to be an oil company no one knows about. I knew of them because most of the Northwest Super Late Model Racing teams used Schaeffer’s Racing Oil. But they are also very big in agriculture, industrial, and over the road diesel trucks. They are not so well known for daily driver cars, although I do buy it myself. If you read about their history, I bet some of the Studebakers headed off on the Oregon Trail had Schaeffer’s “Black Beauty” axle grease in them!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yoyoman -

                              What Bud and Rich said.
                              Use truck oil in trucks and car oil in cars..!
                              They have different requirements. OR you could switch to an aircraft oil..!

                              I used Castrol GTX, 20-50 in my "daily driver" Lark wagon, (259 auto trans.) for just over 93,000 miles in the SoCal heat. So...what's wrong with plain ol automotive oils again..?

                              Mike

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X