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Need help pulling a DG200 from a 51 Commander

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  • lelshaddai
    replied
    It was leaking quite a bit at the back of the engine but the transmission was leaking heavily also. There is no oil on the upper part of the back of the engine. It all starts at the upper part of the pan gasket. The valley did leak but it leaked upfront and then I replaced the gasket. It’s still leaks in the back by the pan.

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  • studegary
    replied
    I do not see enough of a leak from the rear main or the pan to do anything about it. It does look like there is or was a leak from further up, like the rocker arm covers or the valley cover.

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  • lelshaddai
    replied
    I have some additional pictures to share. Looking at these pics I do not think the rear main is leaking. It looks like the pan gasket is leaking. Can someone confirm this.? I do not think a need to replace the rear main just the pan gasket. That would be nice.

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  • studegary
    replied
    Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
    If it was my car, I would bolt the old bell housing up WITH the dowel pins in place and check the run out with a dial indicator. If the run out is good, I would use the old bell housing. I would also pull up the carpet, pull the inspection plate from the floor and use all of the bell housing bolts.
    I second this. If the bell housing is original to the engine and the dowel pins have not been disturbed and there was no prior problem, I would probably just use the bell housing by using the pins and all of the bolts without dialing it in again.

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  • RadioRoy
    replied
    Dialing in the bell housing insures that the transmission input shaft and the engine crankshaft are concentric - their centers of rotation are the same.

    Run out refers to how far out of alignment the two are. Ideally, you want them to be zero run out, or exactly concentric. While this is not possible in the real world, Studebaker engineers specified how far out of concentric they could be.

    The specification is in the shop manual for the car or the manual for the transmission.

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  • lelshaddai
    replied
    This project has tested my level of expertise.....which is limited. I used a dial indicator to line up my ring gear in my 62 Volvo. I have to admit I do not know what you mean by "run out" I plan on installing all the bolts on the bell housing. I was just happy to successfully get the thing out without crushing myself. I plan on replacing the rear main seal and oil pan seal. They both leak.

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  • RadioRoy
    replied
    If it was my car, I would bolt the old bell housing up WITH the dowel pins in place and check the run out with a dial indicator. If the run out is good, I would use the old bell housing. I would also pull up the carpet, pull the inspection plate from the floor and use all of the bell housing bolts.

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    I am not sure what that means either, but if it is about re-using the Housing with a missing bolt "Ear", it should not make a difference after the rest of the Bolts and TWO Dowel Pins are in.

    If it is about holding the Converter Housing "Up" or "On", while dialing the Centerline of the Crankshaft to the same of the Trans.
    All Bolts must be in and just slightly "Snug" and the Dowel Pins removed to allow Bumping the Housing around after measuring the off center with a Dial Indicator as Dozens of threads here have said.

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  • lelshaddai
    replied
    Spell check
    The top dog ear could be held in by a bolt and washer and then the rest of the bolts will send **** up.
    "will still hold it up."

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  • lelshaddai
    replied
    I could still use the original bell housing. The top dog year could be held in by a bolt and washer and then the rest of the bolts will send **** up. I received the transmission from a member in California who had pulled it and said it was working.

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  • RadioRoy
    replied
    If you change the bell housing, you should dial it in.

    This is a question that should have been asked before now, but... are you sure the DG 250 is good?

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  • lelshaddai
    replied
    I finally removed the transmission. I had to remove it with the bell still on it.
    Question: The original bell has a broken dog ear at the top. Funny thing the entire transmission was only held in by the two side bolts. Never thought to see that before hand. Did not think anyone would do that. With the broken dog ear should I still use the original bell or use the other bell I have? These pictures are the original set up.

    Both bells have the same casting numbers.







    These pics are the 250M setup.

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  • lelshaddai
    replied
    As I proceed : I have drained the trans and converter, all linkages, cables wires disconnected. Driveshaft disconnected and moved. Started removing batwing support bolts. Braced the engine. I was looking at the bell housing for later removal, it appears that the previous owner did not bolt it in the top 4 bolts. I do not see or feel any heads, just a hole. Also when I reassemble can the upper bell bolts be put in without removing the large transmission access plate? The jute and carpet where rubber cemented down over it.
    I removed the bell from the DG250M. The previous owner also welded the exhaust to a bracket that is welded to the bell housing. Makes it a bit tougher to move the exhaust. It is all welded pipes to one piece.

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  • BRUCESTUDE
    replied
    When I changed the Flightomatic on my Lark I made a cradle out of 2x4s, size per the shop manual, and then removed the cross member.
    With the engine supported this way it was easy to remove the bell housing. The exhaust may have to be removed for clearance.

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Gord's idea will work fine, just one add; the ONLY place you can support a Stude. V8 without the Bellhousing installed without damage, is under the Pan Bolts.

    A useful Stude. Tool to have would be a 3/16" Thick Steel "U" to use on a Jack Stand or a Jack. In a pinch, good Hardwood might work 1 5/8" thick though.

    Be SURE you remember WHICH one of your Converter Housings is Factory (we hope) Mated to this Engine.

    Also carefully check that Flex Plate for hairline stress cracks around the Crankshaft Bolt Holes.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 05-21-2020, 10:32 PM.

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